Oil Cooler Core Discussion
 

Hi all I had a question that I think would start a good discussion or at least clear up answer my question.

I was looking at the DIY oil cooler install that was posted a couple years back, and when filling the shopping cart I noticed that the off brand core(can't remember the name right now) was substantially cheaper then the mocal or setrab cores. My question is why is there such a big difference in price? Also would the cheaper option be suitable for track use?

Setrab is used by NASCAR, you can throw a rock at it at 150 mph without any issue. You can hit the core with a hammer and not leak oil.


When an engine costs $8000, do you want to risk your oil cooler puncturing to save $100-200?

(Also, eBay a used core)

Just remember you get what you pay for. If you are planning on tracking id go with the Setrab 34 row

Okay so what I'm getting is that setrab uses stronger materials? Im not trying to cheap out, but I'm looking for more then a "this is better" get this, I wanna know why it's better.

You get what you pay for. If you get it off of flea-bay. You may be getting a clone of a clone. If the core fails. The Z doesn't have an oil pressure gauge to warn you. All it has is a light that comes on too late.

Setrab uses specialized welding equipment to seal the top and bottom sections with the internal baffles. What you are paying for is the precision craftsmanship of their products. I've used Setrab units for many Nissan racing applications and have been satisfied with their performance over the years.

While "You get what you pay for" isn't always true, it's a very good rule-of-thumb.

A product from a well-respected company such as Setrab will usually be made of high-quality materials that are assembled by craftsmen using the proper methods. After spending quite a bit of money designing the unit, they spend more testing it. Good is seldom cheap.

The cheaper units you find will often be just a poor imitation of somebody's else's design with inferior materials and construction.

You can find bargains but they are few and far between.

I agree and an OP gauge is a must if you go this route. It saved my *** already, I didn't realize my Z was using oil when I went this route. I noticed a drop in pressure and checked the oil... sure enough, down 2! Yikes, now I check her ever other fill up. Why they have that stupid fkn clock there instead of an OP gauge is beyond me!


JT

I went through this with my oil cooler install. I said "eh, it won't make that much of a difference" and bought what Stillen offers as a base core for their coolers. It leaked like a siv, and I bought a Setrab core. Side by side, its just better quality. Its beefier and stronger. Setrab cores are used in racecars all over the world as well as Ferrari, Aston Martin etc etc etc from the factory. Think of it as buying Megan coilovers vs Ohlins or whatever. Huge difference.

+1 on Setrab, just installed a 25 row and the cooler itself looked top notch.

Kinda off topic but, is running oil below 180 THAT bad? I know oil temps should be between 180-200 or so, but since installing my cooler it won't go past 180 even under spirited driving.

Just to update this I ended up going withe the setrab 34 row. Im in southern cali, so temps on daily driving are averaging 210ish which I know is high. Also the one I bought didn't come with a thermostatic plate so I ordered one directly from setrab(its a mocal 180 degree plate)

Which leads me to believe that you don't have one. IF you Daily the car, it is highly recommended that you run a thermostatic sandwich plate.

I also wanted to add that I picked up the Tanabe OP gauge thatll be going in on my next oil change. The cooler will go on in the second oil change that way I can get a gist of where my oil pressure should be at post cooler install.

Terrible no, not the greatest yes. Sounds like you need to make a block off plate to partial block the cooler. Plenty of threads here about them. Just search.

180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler

On the factory gauge. It can be pretty accurate with a properly placed aftermarket gauge. Or you could be a G guy and didn't get a factory gauge at all.

Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it

The temperature sensor is where the inlet from the oil cooler is.

What he is trying to say is that 180 is the supply temp of the oil once it has been cooled by the oil cooler & you are not seeing the peak temp of the oil upon the return from the engine.

HTH

What it boils down to is, the oil temp going back into the motor after the cooler.

Im confused, how can a setrab handle a punch after seeing these pics?

The stamped which I have is rock solid and very thick. I'd take it for strength over a normal cooler design with the thin oil channels.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...-question.html

Just my $0.02. Both diff and oil are well controlled with these cheaper priced coolers and in my hands the cheaper ones a solid beast. Uses maybe 16-18 gauge aluminium and stamped. It's no joke on construction.

Just installed a tru-cool 48 row oil cooler and removed the oem oil cooler. My hoods also vented, bumpers cut out more, run a bigger oil filter, run oem coolant with about a gallon or so of race formula coolant, a bottle of water wetter and maybe 1/2 gallon of water. (It's just what I had laying around.)

Before on a day like today at 88* and 70% humidity on the highway just cruising I was around 200* on the oem gauge. Hottest I've gotten it up to was about 220-230* with sprinted driving. Clearly the oem cooler, coolants, and vent were doing their jobs cause that's not bad!

Now with the cooler which holds 846mL and easily another 100mL + in the lines (1quart), I'm at about 7 quarts total. Just highway driving the gauge was stuck on 180*! Out in the country with sprints from stops signs etc I got it up to 185*. I say for a kit I built and only spending $80 on the cooler this things a steal!! I do not see the point going with a built kit or a Setrad cooler costing $250-$350 for the cooler alone.

I have a Mocal on my 75' 280zt. I am putting at FI kit/Setrab on my 370z. 78% humidity and 88 deg. is winter time highs for me. Stock, my car runs at 220 on the interstate at 78 mph at 96 deg. Get on it a weensy bit and it will be at 240 in no time flat. Plus, it will take over 20min to cool off at that speed.

Why do you ask am I going with a Setrab, better built. End of story.