Oil Cooler Core Discussion

jwick · 08-07-2015, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler

On the factory gauge. It can be pretty accurate with a properly placed aftermarket gauge. Or you could be a G guy and didn't get a factory gauge at all.

lhinojos · 08-07-2015, 01:15 PM

Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler

DEpointfive0 · 08-07-2015, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhinojos

Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it

The temperature sensor is where the inlet from the oil cooler is.

Felix 808 · 08-07-2015, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhinojos

Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

The temperature sensor is where the inlet from the oil cooler is.

What he is trying to say is that 180 is the supply temp of the oil once it has been cooled by the oil cooler & you are not seeing the peak temp of the oil upon the return from the engine.

HTH

Rusty · 08-07-2015, 04:27 PM

What it boils down to is, the oil temp going back into the motor after the cooler.

synolimit · 08-07-2015, 07:56 PM

Im confused, how can a setrab handle a punch after seeing these pics?

The stamped which I have is rock solid and very thick. I'd take it for strength over a normal cooler design with the thin oil channels.

Cooler design question.

synolimit · 08-07-2015, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhinojos

Okay so what I'm getting is that setrab uses stronger materials? Im not trying to cheap out, but I'm looking for more then a "this is better" get this, I wanna know why it's better.

Just my $0.02. Both diff and oil are well controlled with these cheaper priced coolers and in my hands the cheaper ones a solid beast. Uses maybe 16-18 gauge aluminium and stamped. It's no joke on construction.

Just installed a tru-cool 48 row oil cooler and removed the oem oil cooler. My hoods also vented, bumpers cut out more, run a bigger oil filter, run oem coolant with about a gallon or so of race formula coolant, a bottle of water wetter and maybe 1/2 gallon of water. (It's just what I had laying around.)

Before on a day like today at 88* and 70% humidity on the highway just cruising I was around 200* on the oem gauge. Hottest I've gotten it up to was about 220-230* with sprinted driving. Clearly the oem cooler, coolants, and vent were doing their jobs cause that's not bad!

Now with the cooler which holds 846mL and easily another 100mL + in the lines (1quart), I'm at about 7 quarts total. Just highway driving the gauge was stuck on 180*! Out in the country with sprints from stops signs etc I got it up to 185*. I say for a kit I built and only spending $80 on the cooler this things a steal!! I do not see the point going with a built kit or a Setrad cooler costing $250-$350 for the cooler alone.

Spooler · 08-07-2015, 11:13 PM

I have a Mocal on my 75' 280zt. I am putting at FI kit/Setrab on my 370z. 78% humidity and 88 deg. is winter time highs for me. Stock, my car runs at 220 on the interstate at 78 mph at 96 deg. Get on it a weensy bit and it will be at 240 in no time flat. Plus, it will take over 20min to cool off at that speed.

Why do you ask am I going with a Setrab, better built. End of story.

08-07-2015, 04:27 PM	#20 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,191 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	What it boils down to is, the oil temp going back into the motor after the cooler. Felix 808 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 08-07-2015 at 07:14 PM.

08-07-2015, 07:56 PM	#21 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Im confused, how can a setrab handle a punch after seeing these pics? The stamped which I have is rock solid and very thick. I'd take it for strength over a normal cooler design with the thin oil channels. Cooler design question. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 08-07-2015 at 08:04 PM.

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08-07-2015, 11:13 PM	#23 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I have a Mocal on my 75' 280zt. I am putting at FI kit/Setrab on my 370z. 78% humidity and 88 deg. is winter time highs for me. Stock, my car runs at 220 on the interstate at 78 mph at 96 deg. Get on it a weensy bit and it will be at 240 in no time flat. Plus, it will take over 20min to cool off at that speed. Why do you ask am I going with a Setrab, better built. End of story.