Oil Cooler Core Discussion

lhinojos

Okay so what I'm getting is that setrab uses stronger materials? Im not trying to cheap out, but I'm looking for more then a "this is better" get this, I wanna know why it's better.

Rusty

You get what you pay for. If you get it off of flea-bay. You may be getting a clone of a clone. If the core fails. The Z doesn't have an oil pressure gauge to warn you. All it has is a light that comes on too late.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

synolimit

Just my $0.02. Both diff and oil are well controlled with these cheaper priced coolers and in my hands the cheaper ones a solid beast. Uses maybe 16-18 gauge aluminium and stamped. It's no joke on construction.

Just installed a tru-cool 48 row oil cooler and removed the oem oil cooler. My hoods also vented, bumpers cut out more, run a bigger oil filter, run oem coolant with about a gallon or so of race formula coolant, a bottle of water wetter and maybe 1/2 gallon of water. (It's just what I had laying around.)

Before on a day like today at 88* and 70% humidity on the highway just cruising I was around 200* on the oem gauge. Hottest I've gotten it up to was about 220-230* with sprinted driving. Clearly the oem cooler, coolants, and vent were doing their jobs cause that's not bad!

Now with the cooler which holds 846mL and easily another 100mL + in the lines (1quart), I'm at about 7 quarts total. Just highway driving the gauge was stuck on 180*! Out in the country with sprints from stops signs etc I got it up to 185*. I say for a kit I built and only spending $80 on the cooler this things a steal!! I do not see the point going with a built kit or a Setrad cooler costing $250-$350 for the cooler alone.

__________________
13 370z-