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Oil Cooler Core Discussion

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler On the factory gauge. It can be pretty

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Old 08-07-2015, 11:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler
On the factory gauge. It can be pretty accurate with a properly placed aftermarket gauge. Or you could be a G guy and didn't get a factory gauge at all.
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it


Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
180 means 200 degrees, the temp with an oil cooler is the outlet temp of the oil cooler
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it
The temperature sensor is where the inlet from the oil cooler is.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lhinojos View Post
Can you elaborate this a little further? I keep seeing people say this but I don't understand it
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
The temperature sensor is where the inlet from the oil cooler is.

What he is trying to say is that 180 is the supply temp of the oil once it has been cooled by the oil cooler & you are not seeing the peak temp of the oil upon the return from the engine.

HTH
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What it boils down to is, the oil temp going back into the motor after the cooler.
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Im confused, how can a setrab handle a punch after seeing these pics?

The stamped which I have is rock solid and very thick. I'd take it for strength over a normal cooler design with the thin oil channels.

Cooler design question.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:07 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lhinojos View Post
Okay so what I'm getting is that setrab uses stronger materials? Im not trying to cheap out, but I'm looking for more then a "this is better" get this, I wanna know why it's better.
Just my $0.02. Both diff and oil are well controlled with these cheaper priced coolers and in my hands the cheaper ones a solid beast. Uses maybe 16-18 gauge aluminium and stamped. It's no joke on construction.

Just installed a tru-cool 48 row oil cooler and removed the oem oil cooler. My hoods also vented, bumpers cut out more, run a bigger oil filter, run oem coolant with about a gallon or so of race formula coolant, a bottle of water wetter and maybe 1/2 gallon of water. (It's just what I had laying around.)

Before on a day like today at 88* and 70% humidity on the highway just cruising I was around 200* on the oem gauge. Hottest I've gotten it up to was about 220-230* with sprinted driving. Clearly the oem cooler, coolants, and vent were doing their jobs cause that's not bad!

Now with the cooler which holds 846mL and easily another 100mL + in the lines (1quart), I'm at about 7 quarts total. Just highway driving the gauge was stuck on 180*! Out in the country with sprints from stops signs etc I got it up to 185*. I say for a kit I built and only spending $80 on the cooler this things a steal!! I do not see the point going with a built kit or a Setrad cooler costing $250-$350 for the cooler alone.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have a Mocal on my 75' 280zt. I am putting at FI kit/Setrab on my 370z. 78% humidity and 88 deg. is winter time highs for me. Stock, my car runs at 220 on the interstate at 78 mph at 96 deg. Get on it a weensy bit and it will be at 240 in no time flat. Plus, it will take over 20min to cool off at that speed.

Why do you ask am I going with a Setrab, better built. End of story.
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