ENGINE Rebuild, P0011, P0021 Help!
 

Hi guys
I own 2 nissan 370z's. A coupe and a vert. My coupe got starved of oil and I had to have the engine rebuilt. The engine builders replaced all bearings, piston rings and a new crank.
We have fitted the engine and struggled to get it to start to then realise the vvel sensors were not set. I set these with consult 3 to 0.500v. With a bit of peddle then the engine fired and bedded all the piston rings in ect. The car will idle fine but has no throttle response and when given some gas will seem to miss. Also car will not go over 3500rpm (limp mode). Consult 3 gave 2 codes, P0011, P0021. INT/V TIM B1, INV/T TIM B2.
i have checked the timing solenoid and cam sensors. All fine. My engine builders is 100% confident it's timed properly. I know these engines rely on oil pressure.
Any suggestions would be greatfull. I'm at my last tether with it!

Ant. :D

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My convertible
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My coupe
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A log would be nice, but without its hard to diagnose. Its like shooting in to a barrel with 1 fish while blind folded.

Sounds like the codes I threw after 2 of my internal gaskets blew..

how much was an engine rebuild? Is it that much cheaper than just putting a new/used motor from another wrecked z? JW why you went with the a rebuild rather than a transplant...

Here in the UK engines are hard to come by. Talking 5k!! Engine rebuild was 2.5k! My engine had only done 30k.
Are the internal gaskets the 2 paper gaskets which blow oil into the timing case allow oil pressure to drop? Where can I get these?
Thanks for all your help and advice

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Have a look at this thread -- I bet its the same problem.

Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about - G35Driver

Had a look but that's for the vq35vhr engine. Is it the same gaskets on the vq37vhr engine? I can't find anything else related to that for the 370z.
Thanks for your help. Hopefully this is the problem

There is on myg37.com. Your gaskets failed!!

Ok
I'll tear down front end of the car tomorrow and inspect. I'll report back with pics tomorrow.
Again thanks for your help.

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Do you know the part numbers for these pal?

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Really man? Guys looking for advise for a problem.

UPDATE!
stripped front end of the car out today and exposed the oil gallery gaskets! both gaskets were fine! not blown at all.
Im now stumped!

Hotline Archive
With Service Manuals diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures



Number: 548509
Vehicle Application:
2008 G37 3.7
Customer Concern: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is on. Bank 1 Intake Valve Timing (IVT) control code P0011. Has a low power complaint. The engine will not rev higher than 2400 RPM. Scan data shows the bank 1 IVT at -14 degrees and the bank 2 IVT at 0 degrees at idle. Can manually operate the IVT control solenoids on each bank and get the engine speed to drop the engine to run rough.
Average Reported Mileage: 50000
Tests/Procedures: 1. Scope the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors and the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and check for good square wave signals and check the phasing (sync) of the signals.

2. Remove the bank 1 intake valve timing cover from the front of the timing chain cover and use a 3 mm allen wrench in the front holes in the center of the bank 1 intake camshaft sprocket - it should only go in about 3/8 inch. The back holes should allow the allen wrench to go in over 3/4 inch.

3. If the front holes only let the allen go in 3/8 inch, then the intake camshaft sprocket is at 0 degrees. So then either the timing chain is off, or the camshaft sensor reluctor fingers on the front of the camshaft sprocket may have turned on the sprocket.

4. Can see if the reluctor will turn on the front of the intake camshaft sprocket. See related document for position of the reluctor fingers on the front of the camshaft sprocket.
Tech Tips: We have been seeing cases of the reluctor fingers for the CMP sensor, turning on the intake camshaft sprockets. The reluctor fingers are press fit onto the front of the sprockets. The related document shows the known good (new sprocket) CMP sensor reluctor position on the intake camshaft sprocket, along with one where the reluctor had turned on the sprocket. See if the reluctor is loose and if you are able to turn it, and also if it is in the correct position. The photo is from a 2012 but both are 3.7 Nissan engines so I would expect them to be the same. The pictures are not straight on but hopefully they will give you an idea if that is the issue with the vehicle you are working on.
Author:
Paul Kujawa
Related Document(s):
2012 370Z intake camshaft sprocket
Diagnostic Codes
P0011
Potential Causes

With Service Manuals diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures
Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket
Timing Chain
Confirmed Fix Summary
Confirmed Fix

With Service Manuals diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures
2 - Replaced/Repaired Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket


Confirmed Fix Details


Tech Reported Fix Details Confirmed Fix


1 Brent Simmons
May 4, 2015 2010 Infiniti G37, 3.7L, V6, USA *
Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket
- REPLACED BANK1 CAM SHAFT GEAR SPROCKET
Replaced Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket


2 Stanley Sadowski
March 24, 2015 2008 Infiniti G37, Sport 3.7L, V6, USA *
Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket
- Turned the reluctor fingers back on the intake camshaft sprocket.

50,000 miles Repaired Bank 1 Intake Camshaft Sprocket
- Confirmed Fix - Exact Vehicle Match- Confirmed Fix - Similar Vehicle Match*
- Indicates a Similar Vehicle - Not an exact match to the vehicle selected

Its most likely timing related, hope this helps! ^

PM me, ill send you some more info off identifix, theres some other comfirmed fixes aswell.

I have a feeling its related to your timing, The sprocket/chain might have been installed wrong,

Theres also 100+ comfirmed fixes by changing the oil filter, I doubt its that but worth a try.

It plugs up, causing lower than normal oil pressure. But oil light will not come on!

FT183TECHS
May 6, 2015 2010 Infiniti G37, Sport 3.7L, V6, USA *
Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter
- change oil and filter
Replaced Engine Oil and Replaced Engine Oil Filter


2 Josh Bunn
January 12, 2015 2009 Nissan 370Z, Touring 3.7L, V6, USA *
Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter Replaced Engine Oil and Replaced Engine Oil Filter


1 Lou Schlenker
January 6, 2015 2008 Infiniti G37, Sport 3.7L, V6, USA *
Fuel Injector Wiring
- found rat damage to injector harness.
Repaired Fuel Injector Wiring

1 Chris Hines
May 31, 2014 2010 Nissan 370Z, Touring 3.7L, V6, MFI, USA *
Timing Chain
32,467 miles

Front timing exposed. Going to redo the timing as I'm not confident the engine builders have timed it right.
What timing tool kit will I need to lock everything up? Can't seem to find one specific for the VH engine. Will a universal kit work?
Thanks
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No kit needed. Put everything to TDC and then move the crank back a bit to gain slack to pull the chain off the water pump. Of coarse the tensioner will need to be locked in place and removed before you do that. The colored chain links will help you time it via the notches on the cam sprockets and crank. If you have no clue what I am talking about, get a service manual before you do anything. I can already tell by looking at the picture you are not on TDC. If you get this wrong, you are not going to be happy. Bye-Bye valves.

Your really don't need to undo anything to check it from here. Just spin the motor over to TDC, take a picture so we can look at it.

You're good....;)

Use to do it for a living while in higher education. I have done many.

Evohunter - that's some great info you have there mate. Surprised that those reluctor wheels are moving. I changed my fibre seals on the timing covers, replaced the metal gauze thimble filters on both banks and replaced a leaking IVT solenoid valve - end result is a seamless wave of torque to redline.

This was all done despite the ECU never logging any fault codes. It just felt off. The seals are cheap. They are known to blow out under pressure on R35's. Same seals. I posted about it somewhere and i'm pretty sure i listed the part numbers. If you're unsure, it's the seals that go on the shaft that's inside the front timing covers. The seals are a stiff fiber circular seal with a diagonal slit.

The other seal i know of is the paper seal underneath that pistol shaped cover between the two intake cam sprockets and underneath the centre coolant pipe

Are you using 5w30 oil? How about the fly wheel? Was it fitted in the correct position/was the correct flywheel fitted?

THIS^^^

You can download it from the site -- I think it's in the repair/maintenance forum.

Glad you're closing in on solving the problem!

Hi guys
Checked the Oil gallery gaskets and they were both fine! Although i now have 2x new ones to replace.
Sorry its been a while I have been very busy with work. The Engine timing is mechanically spot on from what I can see. Pic attached http://i61.tinypic.com/1ijuyc.jpg
full size: Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
The orange links don't line up as I cranked it over a few times to get TDC. All timing marks lined up and seems to be fine. Obviously the only marks I couldn't see was the one on the rear of the cam sprocket which this was down to my engine builder to get right!!
One other question can the cam sprocket plates on the front which the cam sensors pick readings off be adjusted?. Could the engine builder of not set these right? Could they be on opposite side?
Thanks

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ode-p0011.html

I had the p0011 code. All I had to do was change the oil.

Update!
 

Hi guys
Having been busy with work and waiting for a new oil pump to turn up the car has been left.
I've now fitted the new oil pump, checked timing and put everything back together. Car fired first crack. No more p0011 or P0021 codes but it's still in limp mode. Throttle very unresponsive and can't get car to rev past 3500rpm. Again it's in limp mode. No fault codes on the ecu!
Any suggestions?
Thanks

If its in limp you should have a code unless it thinks its overheating which you could see at the gauges. The other problem that could be causing you problems is the miscalibration on your vvel sensors. You need to do the .500v setting immediatley after reassembling the engine with the actuators and control shafts set at the propper opening angle. Thee vvel actuators come from nissan with a plastic wedge tool pre installed to set the base position during assembly. Think of it as having to set the opening angle on a throttle butterfly mechanically first and then having to do the .500v setting of the tps sensor to make sure it is also in the correct spot. You calibrated the sensor to the correct voltage but whos to say that one shaft wasnt at 4 degrees and one was at 7 when you did it since it was already fired up with miscalibrated sensors (and probably reused actuators that werent even installed with the alignment pieces anyway) beforehand. Very few shops worldwide actually know how to fully align the vvel actuators on a rebuild without purchasing new ones with the alignment pieces installed

Basically to do it right the control shafts need to be something like 5 degrees off the minimum lift position(exact figure is in the manual somewhere) then you need to adjust the actuator position by sticking your finger in there and turning the ballscrew that moves the pivot until the two bolt holes line up straght. Then hold it in place at the flats on the control shaft and tighten the two bolts. Once it is mechanically set to the correct position you can use consult to align the sensors and perform the vvel innitialization for the control module. If you dont have consult 3 you can follow the manuals steps to set it by disconnecting the vvel control module under the battery tray cycling the ignition and doing it all by hand. Also when doing it by hand it is much easier to get the voltages from the square junction connector under the rubber cover by the battery instead of trying to back pin the vvel sensorsbehind the motor, the wire locations can be dug out of the manual. It is not a fun process without consult but the dealers usually manage to screw it up even with the tool.

So why don't you just open a shop here in florida and hire an apprentice?

Makes perfect sense. So pulling 2x actuators of another engine won't work? Is there a manual or any form of documentation to do this. I have set the sensors to 0.500v when engine was first installed. Wouldn't start until I did this procedure. There is physically nothing else it can be!
Thanks for your help.

Found the documentation on the EM manual. Clearly the engine builder wasn't aware of this. Looks like another strip down ffs! Lol.

Yeah you will need to get the covers off and set them off the low lift stop on the control shaft. Ive never done it in the car it was too much of a PITA to try and line the actuator up. I do remember that with a bit of tricky math and some feeler ga7ges you can figure out what size you need and shove it in the stop and turn the shaft to minimmum lift and that makes iit easier other wise i used a digital angle gauge (like a good digital level acurrate to .05degrees with a zero or tare button)set on the control shafts and 0'd at minnimum lift then opened 5 degrees.

would it be easier to buy 2x new actuaters?
thanks for all your help.

Easier? yes. but they are a few hundred dollars each and you will still have to take everything apart. be carefully when you turn the car on the first time to make sure the vvel does try to move follow the manual carefully. also try not to rotate the motor after align the vvel actuator body on the back of the head sometimes the bind at the lifters can move the control shaft when turning the motor over.

So if I buy 2x actuators already factory set it's just a case of setting the shaft to line up with the actuator with the small lift stopper?

Or is there anyway of buying the plastic preset inserts to set my existing actuators?

unless somebody who bought actuators has the set lying around nope.

fowler mini-mag

this is what i use

From pms seems like you have the process down now good luck and hopefully the shop didn't screw up and put the little black plastic oil screens for the head in backwards.

Oil screens? Now you have me panicking lol...

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