ENGINE Rebuild, P0011, P0021 Help!

laytonanthony · 10-08-2015, 07:37 PM

Found the documentation on the EM manual. Clearly the engine builder wasn't aware of this. Looks like another strip down ffs! Lol.

1slow370 · 10-08-2015, 08:03 PM

Yeah you will need to get the covers off and set them off the low lift stop on the control shaft. Ive never done it in the car it was too much of a PITA to try and line the actuator up. I do remember that with a bit of tricky math and some feeler ga7ges you can figure out what size you need and shove it in the stop and turn the shaft to minimmum lift and that makes iit easier other wise i used a digital angle gauge (like a good digital level acurrate to .05degrees with a zero or tare button)set on the control shafts and 0'd at minnimum lift then opened 5 degrees.

laytonanthony · 10-12-2015, 10:34 AM

would it be easier to buy 2x new actuaters?
thanks for all your help.

1slow370 · 10-13-2015, 01:41 PM

Easier? yes. but they are a few hundred dollars each and you will still have to take everything apart. be carefully when you turn the car on the first time to make sure the vvel does try to move follow the manual carefully. also try not to rotate the motor after align the vvel actuator body on the back of the head sometimes the bind at the lifters can move the control shaft when turning the motor over.

laytonanthony · 10-13-2015, 05:00 PM

So if I buy 2x actuators already factory set it's just a case of setting the shaft to line up with the actuator with the small lift stopper?

laytonanthony · 10-13-2015, 05:04 PM

Or is there anyway of buying the plastic preset inserts to set my existing actuators?

1slow370 · 10-14-2015, 03:23 PM

unless somebody who bought actuators has the set lying around nope.

1slow370 · 10-14-2015, 03:25 PM

fowler mini-mag

this is what i use

1slow370 · 10-17-2015, 02:38 PM

From pms seems like you have the process down now good luck and hopefully the shop didn't screw up and put the little black plastic oil screens for the head in backwards.

laytonanthony · 10-17-2015, 02:42 PM

Oil screens? Now you have me panicking lol...

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

laytonanthony · 10-19-2015, 12:15 PM

UPDATE!!
So today I stripped the top end and exposed both VVEL control shafts on bank 1 & 2. Was pretty straight forward and only took about. 1.5 hours.
Once rear plastics were removed the actuators were quite accessible which mad my life easier.

First thing I noticed once the actuator unit was removed was the amount of sealant the engine builder had used. one of the oil galleries were pretty much blocked which really hasn't give me much confidence in them one bit! Pic below.

Also the central part of the sealed face should not have any sealant at all!!!!!!
My nest task was to clean up the actuator surfaces and the surfaces on the engine itself!
Now everything was clean I had to adjust the control shaft to the correct position.
looking at the engine from the front to back the low lift side is all the way to the LEFT! I turned the control shafts until they hit the stoppers. Set my magnetic angle gauge on the actuator arm and zeroed it. Them turned the control shaft RIGHT towards the large lift side until the gauge read 5.5 degree. Pic below

I've now managed to align the actuators up manually, but before I put it all back together I'm waiting on confirmation to where the actuator shaft needs to be positioned. The internal actuator shaft comes pre-set from Nissan with a jig setting the angle and position on the shaft. ATM my actuators have moved and although lined up still maybe in the wrong place on the shaft itself. pic below

any more help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ant

SurfDog · 09-20-2017, 08:22 PM

Those gaskets blew my motor.

10-08-2015, 08:03 PM	#32 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Yeah you will need to get the covers off and set them off the low lift stop on the control shaft. Ive never done it in the car it was too much of a PITA to try and line the actuator up. I do remember that with a bit of tricky math and some feeler ga7ges you can figure out what size you need and shove it in the stop and turn the shaft to minimmum lift and that makes iit easier other wise i used a digital angle gauge (like a good digital level acurrate to .05degrees with a zero or tare button)set on the control shafts and 0'd at minnimum lift then opened 5 degrees. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-13-2015, 01:41 PM	#34 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Easier? yes. but they are a few hundred dollars each and you will still have to take everything apart. be carefully when you turn the car on the first time to make sure the vvel does try to move follow the manual carefully. also try not to rotate the motor after align the vvel actuator body on the back of the head sometimes the bind at the lifters can move the control shaft when turning the motor over. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-14-2015, 03:23 PM	#37 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	unless somebody who bought actuators has the set lying around nope. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-14-2015, 03:25 PM	#38 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	fowler mini-mag this is what i use __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-17-2015, 02:38 PM	#39 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	From pms seems like you have the process down now good luck and hopefully the shop didn't screw up and put the little black plastic oil screens for the head in backwards. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-08-2015, 07:37 PM	#31 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	Found the documentation on the EM manual. Clearly the engine builder wasn't aware of this. Looks like another strip down ffs! Lol.

10-12-2015, 10:34 AM	#33 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	would it be easier to buy 2x new actuaters? thanks for all your help.

10-13-2015, 05:00 PM	#35 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	So if I buy 2x actuators already factory set it's just a case of setting the shaft to line up with the actuator with the small lift stopper?

10-13-2015, 05:04 PM	#36 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	Or is there anyway of buying the plastic preset inserts to set my existing actuators?

10-17-2015, 02:42 PM	#40 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	Oil screens? Now you have me panicking lol... Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

10-19-2015, 12:15 PM	#41 (permalink)
laytonanthony Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: england Posts: 22 Drives: Nissan 370z Rep Power: 10	UPDATE!! So today I stripped the top end and exposed both VVEL control shafts on bank 1 & 2. Was pretty straight forward and only took about. 1.5 hours. Once rear plastics were removed the actuators were quite accessible which mad my life easier. First thing I noticed once the actuator unit was removed was the amount of sealant the engine builder had used. one of the oil galleries were pretty much blocked which really hasn't give me much confidence in them one bit! Pic below. Also the central part of the sealed face should not have any sealant at all!!!!!! My nest task was to clean up the actuator surfaces and the surfaces on the engine itself! Now everything was clean I had to adjust the control shaft to the correct position. looking at the engine from the front to back the low lift side is all the way to the LEFT! I turned the control shafts until they hit the stoppers. Set my magnetic angle gauge on the actuator arm and zeroed it. Them turned the control shaft RIGHT towards the large lift side until the gauge read 5.5 degree. Pic below I've now managed to align the actuators up manually, but before I put it all back together I'm waiting on confirmation to where the actuator shaft needs to be positioned. The internal actuator shaft comes pre-set from Nissan with a jig setting the angle and position on the shaft. ATM my actuators have moved and although lined up still maybe in the wrong place on the shaft itself. pic below any more help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ant

09-20-2017, 08:22 PM	#42 (permalink)
SurfDog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Colorado (9000 feet) Age: 56 Posts: 1,796 Drives: 09 6mt, 13 Sequoia, Rep Power: 15749	Those gaskets blew my motor. __________________ 09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix

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