NST lightweight pulleys
 

My very first MOD 2 years ago. Driving home from the track after only 2 sessions today the NST crank pulley let go. It broke all 4 of the flanges just above the Crank bolt flange. I will snap a few pics for GP. I have the stock one in the garage, hopefully I can get it back on for this weekends racing.

Be warned stay away.:mad:

Noted.

You are the first whom I've heard of with an issue. :(

I've beat on mine canyon carving for years now even in hot weather, and I've yet to have any problems. :driving:

Sorry to hear about it though. :ugh2:

Interesting. Subbing for updates and pix.

Pics of what I got. Pulley was laying on drivers side undertray. Anyone have a good way to lock the driveline. Got the PB blaster soaking on it now.

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszqdcjfxu.jpg
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgvpv0tzh.jpg
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshub5lpiq.jpg

Damn.

Wow i almost got those Pulleys

hum talk about coincidence, I removed my front mount turbo tonight to work on some shielding, i might switch back to the oem pulley tomorrow because I had the NST for the pass 5 years!

Your's is not the first that I know of. I'm going to make you worry now. Did it damage anything else? Wonder if it damage the crank? This is the reason I don't like these.

When mine broke on the LT1 cheby I had. It took out the crank and radiator too. The crank broke in front of #2 crank bearing. The pulley went through part of a 4 core radiator. It was explained to me by the guy who balanced and built my LT1. That when you change the dampener to a lightweight dampener. You change the harmonics in the crank. I had changed to the lightweight after I had installed the motor. So it was not balanced with everything else.

Here's some pic's I pulled.

Carnage, Ouch. Only thing I may put on is an ATI damper in stock size.

Nope it didn't even hit the crankcase. I think it snap jumped up from tension or just rotated out and plopped onto the undertray. I thought it was track rubber coming off the tires...until I noticed my brake light, battery light, and no charge going into the batt. No PS is a bitch on 285 R1'S

I'm hoping you got lucky. i can just imagine going from ps to no ps and going in your mind, WTF???

They are making one, i talked to someone from ati. Should be our within next couples months.

There is a guy here in Houston that has had this issue as well. After looking further into it, I discovered that mine is a newer design with thicker spokes. I'm guessing the design had been updated to avoid this very issue.

This is the old one:

...and this is the new one:

Seems like it's not worth it to change out pullies

Too much VTEC err VVEL

Stupid question but, the pulley bolt turns counterclockwise to loosen right?

I have a huge amount of force and can't budge it yet.

Yes

Bumping the starter was a no go didn't budge it.

Do you have a chain wrench?

No but I can get one what are you thinking?

If I can't get an impact on a crank pulley I use a chain wrench to hold it and use a long breaker bar with socket on the nut. You can adjust them close together where it makes it easier to get the crank pulley bolt to break loose. If that doesn't work, you will need to pull the radiator and get at it with an 1/2" impact gun.

You got a manual or auto?

Looks like he's got a Nismo, so it is a manual.

Well the pulley is gone but, I may be able to get a chain wrench or a big set of vise grips on what is left and give that a try. I'll give it a try tomorrow and if that doesn't work I think all I'm left with is removing the radiator to get a impact on it.

If you are trying to remove the crank bolt. Put the tranny in 6 gear, with the E-brake on. (might have to have someone inside the car to push on the brakes too) This will stop the crank from turning. Now get your biggest breaker bar and socket on that bolt. I've used a pipe over the breaker bar at times for extra torque.

Next question. Once you get the bolt out. I don't know if the pulley to crank fit is a straight or a tapered fit. If it's a tapered fit. You might have to use a torch to heat up the pulley remains to remove it. A lot of times. The pulley will move farther on the crank as it gets hot. watch out for burrs on the crank. If you get any. you will have to file them down, and finish them off with a honing stone with oil on it. ;)

Mine broke this weekend just like the OP. If you have one of these on I highly recommend getting it off ASAP.

Here is picture of the failed pulley
http://www.the370z.com/members/dr_-a...ey-failure.jpg

I wonder if that pulley is a knockoff because of the way they written the name on it..

The picture of mine I attached is one of the first one that was available to the 370z.

Dang bud, you can tell you live up North via the picture.

Is this from daily driving or hard tracking?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Maybe yours is the knockoff as all the others in the thread have writing like mine. ;) Seriously though mine was from one of the early group buys. I was on track when it failed but less than 8k miles on the pulleys.

hehe knockoff from the original company... last night I went on their website to look at our pulley and the writhing is exactly like it is on mine ;P

I just found it strange when I saw the complete different writing than what they were using before...

Funny how many people think upgrading pieces will last you long when you drive the car on the track and off with so called "spirited" driving and then warn the rest about the product when it breaks. Any mod will break if you beat up enough on it. Sorry yours broke. Change it and move on. Many who use it on the track and off have these and lasted for long too. If mine breaks, I'm not complaining and simply swap and move on.

Rather than jumping to conclusions, why not just contact the company and ask it they're aware of any knock offs and/or if they've ever changed the script on the pulleys.

Mine look identical to these, which is what is pictured on their site
http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...leys-image.jpg

Just more reasons to stay far away from NST. Those guys are crooks from what I can tell :shakes head:

Sorry had to just remind folks.

There were two versions of the NST Crank pulleys.

Version 1
http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/...8e6205-800.jpg

Version 2 like LAVA's example

http://www.the370z.com/members/cbtec...sh-out-box.jpg

Can you spot the difference?

If NOT the spacing between the center cutouts are thicker on version 2

Hence the less probability of it failing NOT that it couldn't fail but making it less likely.

I see the failures are from the early adopters while they were on version 1

Hope it clears the air as to why some are failing.

I bought my set as they were rolling out version 2 and have not had any issues to warrant me to want to remove it.

They were pretty good while they were here as active vendors.

only pic of mine I can find. Mine looks like Ver 1?

http://www.the370z.com/members/370z-...31-photo-2.jpg

seem like some person takes everything very personal nowadays ,, even some sarcasm is too much...

its not like I told the guy, hey man stop buying crap knockoff stuff .... look, NST has been around for years now and im sure some guys didn't know they went with different version on the same car. I had mine from Mike Monammi (cant spell his name right) in the beginning when he did his first part out on this forum.