My 2014 just did this last night.....vdc was on in Auto, fresh cold start just driving normal, nothing crazy but when i tried to accelerate i wasn't getting any power. I had to turn it off twice to get her to behave right.....WTF is going on with my car. HELP!!!!!

My Buick 215 with 8 spark plug leads, coolant, and quad Weber carb's .... lo-tech and it works !!!

Im having the same issue with my 09. It feels like it stalls for a second around 3500 rpm then regains power then does it again in another gear. Went away for a couple months then just came back... I really wish i knew what was wrong with ti so i could fix it..

I don't understand this; the VQ37VHR opens the throttle bodies all the way at very low accelerator pedal positions and uses the VVEL system to manipulate engine throttle control. Therefore, above idle speeds, I don't see how cleaning the throttle bodies would fix this issue.

This video should explain what I am talking about: http://youtu.be/6i1rBkP8dYs

I'm a noob here but I have this to offer:

I've only seen this once in my 2011 370z - I lost the back end and spun 540 degrees into the other lane to face the way I came from. When the car stopped spinning there was still serious reverse momentum and I left the car in gear for a split second. When I drove off I hit limiter at 3500 in any gear so I pulled over and let it cool for 5 minutes. I cranked her up and drove her hard the rest of the day with no issues.

I guessed it had somehow sensed that I had overheated the clutch and never thought of it again. I've never seen it since.

Apparently there are at least TWO types of unexplained limp modes, characterized by

a. high idle and limited power (throttles not opening fully)
b. rev limiter at 3500rpm

Common to both is that there is no CEL and no DTC, and they "reset" by restarting the car. I have also heard for instance a. that although no CEL/DTC is shown, doing a DTC clear/reset (with any kind of OBD tool) while car still idles high will reset the limp mode and car will operate normally again. Kind of a "phantom DTC" so to say.

Are all of you that experienced one or the other issue running flashed ECUs? Please specify which reflash and limp behaviour you had.

Got this problem this week. I first got the service engine soon warning and then was limited to 2500 rpm. I checked fit codes and had p0011 and p0300. I reset them and drove for a mile and they came back. I went for an oil change and reset it again. Now the service engine soon doesn't come back and now I'm limited to 3500 rpm. Still pulling the same codes thought.

I've been running into this just about everyday now.... Here's the scenario

1. Drive to work in the AM ( about 59 degrees out ) - Car runs great
2. Park car under covered parking for 8-10 hours
3. Start car ( about 55-65 degrees...weird temps in Phoenix lately) - startup is fine.
4. Brief idle
5. Push accelerator pedal and only get about 25% throttle.
6. Mash to floor and leave it there...R's come up but VERY slowly - a couple thousand rpm
7. Shut car off, restart, repeat....
8. Usually about the third or 4th time, she comes alive and voila all is well until the next morning when we proceed with step 1 again

NO CEL, NO CODES, Nissan dealership can't recreate so they can't fix anything

Ideas?

It takes me about 3 to 4 times to start up to completely erase the limp mode sometimes the code that appears is 10b which is the mafs. It does go on when im driving on a uphill and on a high gear the car is making too much effort for too long without me down shift. About 97% after that the next start up begins on the limp mode. In my opinion it all has to do with the stock tune and how close the parameters of that mode are set. :tup: so i just down shift and make the ride more fun anyways ive been 3 months limp mode free

Dang, never thought I would experience it out of nowhere but the dreaded "half-***-limp-mode" has struck me!

I am experiencing ALMOST EXACTLY what you are except it is my first time.

I restarted off the highway, still in limp.

Drove home, restarted, it went away but something felt off. My exhausts seemed a bit more quiet and the tranny was shifting a bit strange, like almost a bit "slushy" feeling.

I went out again tonight, seemed like she had power but still felt a bit off. I will try the stealership tomorrow and see what happens.

Drove to the stealership for an oil change, they could not diagnose the issue! The tech "reset" the car...whatever that means. Car feels the same, power is there-ish but it just feels muffled someway.

Maybe I need to clean the MAFs and the TBs?

My friend hits limp mode when he turns on his headlights. ... being serious here

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

:ugh2: I need to take a look at the TBs and the MAF....blah. Will have to drive to my parents to use their garage >_<

Limp Mode?
 

Just had the same problem with the so-called limp mode. The day before this happened, I had removed my air filters and washed them out (Nismo Cold Air intake Long tubes). I left them out to dry overnight and installed them the next morning. Went to the post office (Approx 5 miles), car drove fine. Left the post office after about 3 minutes and the car started bucking back and fourth when trying to give it a little throttle. Had to drive home at 20 to 25MPH, car would not go over that. Got it in the garage and tried to rev it in neutral...still would not rev. Car sat overnite, then started the next morning and took her out for a drive...and no issues. Car was fine. No DTC's, lights, etc... Only thing I can think of...is that the filters were not completely dry and she wasn't getting enough air, or somehow moisture worked it's way up the the MAFS and was causing issues??:eek:

Jerking and bucking sounds like dirty or contaminated MAF/s to me. Clean both MAF sensors using the correct cleaner aerosol and then do a battery reset and go for a drive.

Do all of the people that are having issues have an aftermarket intake?

Will give it a try. Have not had the issue come back so far....Keeping my fingers crossed!

For me, i did have the Stillen G3 fitted at the time but i had it on for ages before it started happening. In the end, it was a bug in the throttle map i had loaded with Uprev. My guess is that under the right circumstances, that buggy cell would be called up and the ECU doesn't like it so it reverts to failsafe.

It doesnt log any fault or bring on the engine light because to the ECU, everything is working as it should. The bug probably just calls for an invalid command, like an off the scale response.

Yes, Takeda CAI on mine. However, problem has not gradually built up - just one day all of a sudden.

I reset the battery and it felt like it did before for a bit but then went back to the normal "post-limp" feeling. I have had not any time to look at the TBs or the MAFs so that is on my list. I'll also take a look at the filter to make sure nothing is stuck there.

New poster here. I usually just lurk, but I just had this happen to me the other day.

On the interstate, only had the car (2013 touring sport - 22k miles) on for about5 mins, was going to pass someone - I was going around 65 and the car felt super sluggish. Put pedal to floor and crawled during acceleration. Would go higher in speed but felt like I was in 6th gear at 15mph, ... Turned car off. Turned it back on 10 minutes later, no issues.

Power came back.

Took to dealership for oil change. No codes, couldn't repeat it.

Edit: also, the dealership said, most of the time this happens because the brake sensor or whatever is being triggered. So next time it happens pull up in the brake and see if that fixes it.

Wow, i've got a '13 touring sport too and same thing! Dealer didn't see anything when I took it in for an oil change.

As for the brake sensor - I don't know about that...if you're driving and you lightly tap on the brake and the accelerator, you will know instantly that you can't accelerate. It wasn't that type of feeling but rather the car accelerated rather slowly.

I took apart the intake and cleaned out the Throttle body (which wasn't all that dirty) and also cleaned the MAF sensors. I didn't have time to take off the bumper and look at the intake filter but i'll let you guys know if cleaning the TBs/MAF helped.

https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dd&oe=56D58E26
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7f&oe=57143AAF
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cd&oe=57132991

No lie, it happened to me last night again, this could of been a fluke, but I lost acceleration power again, so I pulled up on the brake, acceleration back.

If it happens again, I'll report back here.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Wow! that's crazy.

Yup. Thought the dealership guy was pulling my leg, but it worked last night. They said the sensor just reads it wrong and that's what gives the acceleration loss, but we'll see next time.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I'll have to try this in the event it happens to me again. But you know my car felt/sounded different after this event. I reset the battery and the exhausts opened up again.

3 types of limp mode happened to me.

causes were:
1) when I bought it brand new and drove home, engine was breaking in
2) brake light switch was constantly turned on (overrides gas pedal)when it was making contact with the brake pedal constantly
3) low engine oil

Yeah #2 was my issue.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

yep I was freakin puzzled when this happened after a shady shop did a brake fluid flush. he was pretty violent with the brake pedal and that might have shifted the pedal position to hit the switch

edit: you can adjust the position of the switch to sit lower

There are also problems, such as 09 g37.
can not climb above 3500 rpm.
When you press the accelerator happen engine strident.
The problem disappears when you restart the engine.

Weather:
Below 0 degrees
Fog or high humidity

Because of the maf sensor or Throttle Body supercooling ?????

Yep... this happened to me today. 2014 Nismo, 18k miles, CAI Gen 3, FI test pipe and CBE w/ uprev tune done about a year ago. Car never tracked or driven to it's limits.

Car is kept in heated garage year round and went to work this morning over in PA at 13 degrees, no issues. Left work around 3pm and 5 minutes into ride I get no throttle response. Takes long time to get up to speed...but I'm not limited to the 3500 rpms.

Get home, have a beer, read this thread, finish beer, take car out for a spin and just like most people here it's back to normal. LOL.

Will post back to thread if it happens again and what additional actions were taken.

Has happened to me twice in my 2009 Stillen SC 370z a7

Happened to me this morning, was driving very normally. I had the music playing so I could not hear much of the engine, started feeling the engine cutting out and bogging every time I tried to get over 2500 RPM, regardless of which gear I was in. Drove home slowly, turned of off and restarted it a few hours later, no problems since restarting.

Not sure what the cause could be but some things:
- the car was fairly low on fuel, a few minutes of driving after the restart my fuel range indicator came on.
- the car was recently washed. With my Stillen SC setup the pods sit just behind the front bumper exposed. Very likely they were soaked a bit during the hose washing.
- the music was running and I was playing around with the audio settings at the time it happened. (Bose system)

Still no ideal?!? Mine never happened again knock on wood. Crazy. Can't wait to find out what it is. Next yr is the new Z fingers crossed (never ever buy 1st yr productions)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need to add#4 to limp mode.

4) MAF code P0101, P101B
possibly related to K&N filters oversaturating the MAFs and damaging them.. I've changed back to dry filter, changed MAFs twice, and still having this problem intermittently. went to different shops, nobody knows how to fix this. I am told that throttle bodies are probably not the culprit and waste of time cleaning. but there was a thread about people reporting the same issues and cleaning throttle bodies fixed their limp modes and codes related to the MAFS.

This just happened to me yesterday afternoon.

I had stalled while exiting a parking garage, foot slipped off the clutch. While driving on the street, I was trying to get into the left lane, and it was slow to accelerate. I tried to downshift from 4th to 3rd and the RPM's were high, but the car was taking forever to accelerate to a higher speed.

It was like shifting from 2nd to 5th sluggish.

Took it to the dealer to have a technician drive with me. After car had been turned off for 10 minutes. Took the technician for a test drive and bam, it's back to normal. Technician said to just have them check for any error codes and none found.

Car is running back to normal, but going to keep monitoring it.

Luckily I found this thread too. I couldn't find anything with my search queries.

mines doing this now too. 2013 with CAI G3 and FI CBE. it was doing it in the morning when i leave for work, then it quit for a few weeks. now its doing it when i leave work.

i just got a p0101 code today. im not sure how i should approach this.

any advice?

P0101 is a MAF problem. First thing I'd try is cleaning the MAFs. Check electrical connectors too.

2013 Sport with G3 CAI and Fast Intentions CBE. Same issue. I literally had it down to a science last year.

1. Start car instant limp mode
2. Shut car off and wait 45 seconds
3. Start car - no more limp mode!
No limp mode when going to work in the am, but always in limp mode in the evening when leaving work

This went on for months until I got an actual CEL.

Took the car in was told the CAI was to blame. Dealer calibrated the MAFs and I haven't seen the issue for almost 8 months now. Fingers crossed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 2014 Nismo has done this twice. Cold car in A.M. no codes, oil temps good, both times I had a 1/4 tank of gas and the tank of gas previously was not my normal gas station. Noticed it doing 30 to 40 MPH. Was like driving an old 4 cylinder car where it took 5 miles to get up to 85mph. Other then K&M air filters car is Stock. I opened gas cap and reinstalled, but probably just a coincidence as I also turned car off. It's at the shop for that, single clicking noise from rearend with rubbing/drive line/rear end whine. Also showed them the front suspension bushings melting from the extreme heat under and in car. I also gave them copies of the hub/CV axle service bulletins and asked them to see if the EVAP SERVICE BULLETIN addresses the intermittent loss of power. They said it will take them a week or so to address. I said no problem as long as it's fixed, under my extended warranty. Otherwise I will fix the rearend issue and install upgraded/aftermarket rear assembly.