Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter (BSP & NPT)

filip00

OK, so let me bring this thread up for a few questions.

I was doing an oil change and noticed there are some slight leaks around the adapter for the oil pressure gauge. (not what you think, so read on...)

So I go to inspect it all and I decide to just take it all apart, check connections, see if there's maybe some teflon missing somewhere, etc....and as soon as I tried to unscrew the first thing, one fitting broke.

To clarify, this is my setup:


And the extender piece (highlighted), the first that goes in the engine broke. It broke so that there's 2mm of it sticking out, the threads are still in. I will deal with it later today - I plan to dremel two notches in it and stick a flathead screwdriver in and take it out. If there's a better/easier way, please let me know.

My concern is what to do now, after. So, I already have a spare extender...but I'm afraid it will break again, because obviously it suffers huge torque because of all the mass after it. To go without extender isn't possible because the aftermarket sensor housing is just big enough so that you need a tiny extension from the engine - I can't use the T adapter that I have, that I would otherwise put directly in the engine.

Any advice? Thanks.

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Rusty

Do you have to use the extender? I'm not using one. My "T" screws right in to the block.

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SG4247

That adapter is garbage ! Do not use!

The silver extended hex adapter from china is not made correctly.

I tried all the stuff and finally used an inline adapter for my oil cooler and it works perfectly.

Attached Images

IMG_3816.jpg (290.0 KB, 22 views)

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NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

filip00

Yeah, I tried to use the silver T fitting directly in the block, but then I can't fit the oil pressure gauge, it's just a little bit too tight for it to fit :/

Also, the silver T fitting mentioned above - I think it's well made. My extender that broke was a brass fitting, which I think is just not made strong enough...

Also......I still didn't manage to pull out the broken piece. Today I cut two small notches into the protruding part and stuck a flathead screwdriver, but I can't spin it out. It seems more likely that it will break. So I'm a bit puzzled about the right approach here...because if it breaks, it seems almost impossible to pull out, especially with no room around to play with...

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SG4247

Drill a hole in the adapter then drive in a male torx socket with a hammer.

Or skip the drill if you have a torx the right size.

Should be able to unscrew it that way.

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

SG4247

So the silver hex adapter was the wrong threads for the block.

Even if the silver hex adapter didn’t leak, when the pressure transducer was screwed in it was so long that the sway bar might contact with it.

Since I had a cooler already, the #10 inline fitting was a great solution.

Attached Images

IMG_3767.jpg (305.9 KB, 14 views)

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

Rusty

My adapter had the right threads and fit perfect.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

SG4247

I bought two of them from different vendors in the last year and both were wrong.

I measured them with a thread gauge, and never could figure out what they were.

Bad production run? Not sure.

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

filip00

Thanks for the torx tip - I will try that too. For now I tried the non-drill method, just hammering it in and unscrewing it, but that failed as the brass material is quite soft, so it just spun. That's why I decided to try with notching it. I'll be at it again in an hour, playing with options....I'm just very careful so that nothing goes in accidentally, because it would end in the oil pan and I would need to drop it then to clean it up so it doesn't go into the engine...

Regarding the adapter - my hex silver one was the larger piece, with an adequate BSPT thread for the engine, so that wasn't the issue.

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filip00

I also run an oil cooler and this is the main reason why I want a pressure gauge, as I'd like to know just in time in case anything pierces it and I start losing pressure - the OEM warning light comes on way way too late, and I don't want to risk damaging the engine.

My oil cooler and sandwich plate came with no options to add the pressure sensor and I didn't think drilling them to add it myself....I'd avoid that if possible.

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SG4247

Cooler line adapter info if anyone needs it.

Attached Images

IMG_3756.jpg (63.6 KB, 15 views)

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

filip00

Ok, so I managed to do everything today I'll write a follow up here, as it's still related to the treads and sensor installation...

So, the brass extender that I put, in order to be able to have the gauge pressure sensor as well as stock sensor broke. The treads were left in the engine and I was prepared for hours of struggle.....but it was a bit less. Torx or whatever I stuck inside, only spun within. So I took a dremel, slightly notched it and then hammered a wide flathead in it. That finally made it budge






I then took my time and detailed what exactly is preventing me from having enough clearance for installation of the sensor...and I noticed that if I slightly bend a completely irrelevant and unused metal par protruding from the alternator, I can get JUST enough clearance to have it all tightly sitting, without any interference.



I got enough tread engagement, it's tight enough, tested for oil leaks - all good! I also believe this part to be more durable than the brass one, as it does feel like it's steel. Also, since the whole pressure sensor assembly is now shorter, the torque on it is smaller and I believe it will hold on.

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SG4247

That looks good!

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

MotorvateDIY

Here is the setup I've been using for the last 18 months:



I don't like the "long T trees" as they vibrate like a ruler on the edge of a desk due to engine vibration and they can get very close to the serpentine belt. If the belt breaks (not common) it can break off the oil pressure T and you will have a bad day.

Also, the factory oil pressure switch only turns on the low oil pressure light when oil pressure is less than 5 psi. (bench tested)

You will have cam phasing errors (P0011, P0021) way before that light turns on... AND with the factory ECU, it doesn't use it in any way. Mine has been unplugged for 18 months and I monitor oil pressure using a Arduino based LCD display and now the GTR "MFD" gauges using my nav screen.

With the 90 degree fitting, I can support the other end of the oil pressure sensor, to prevent it vibrating and it is a little protected under the alternator, far away from the belt.

Anyways, there are many ways to do this and here is one more

Attached Images

oil_p.jpg (199.4 KB, 42 views)

SkysG37

Here's my idea folks
Install a compatible 10 or 15 psi switch
Instead of the 5 psi one
This combined with a good gauge seems a logical setup