Which oil cooler is the best?

Jayhovah · 06-06-2017, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

I just finished a 48 row true cool installation.

Drove it to work and back today, 60 miles in 95F ambient temp interstate rush hour traffic and oil was 180-190!

I flogged it hard last night, six consecutive 1/4 mile full throttle blasts and it barely made 230F!

Very pleased as I could make 260-280 with ease prior to the install.

I did the install a little differeently than other cooler DIY on the forum and plan to post the DIY soon.

Did the entire install for about $380.

Best mod so far.

lookin' forward to the DIY!

Rusty · 06-06-2017, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fountainhead

I mean in DD situations shouldn't the oil reach at least 200F to boil the water off? If the oil remains too cool then won't the water content cause problems? I guess for DD you get the <25 row.

Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.

Quicksilvers · 06-08-2017, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.

From what I have read so far the best option is to purchase a oil cooler with the correct row for your 370Z for what you are using it for.

Rusty · 06-08-2017, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quicksilvers

From what I have read so far the best option is to purchase a oil cooler with the correct row for your 370Z for what you are using it for.

From other peoples experience on here. Get a 34 row cooler, and don't second guess yourself if you should have gone bigger if you had gotten a 19 or 25 row cooler. There have been many times of me reading where people had wish that they didn't go bigger to begin with. A 34 row with a thermostatic plate and you're good to go.

Chuck33079 · 06-08-2017, 10:09 AM

You can always block off a part of the core if it's not getting hot enough. You can't add rows if it's still getting too hot.

Felix 808 · 08-18-2017, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.

Yep once water begins to boil, it changes state to steam & can not get any hotter in liquid form. Pressure in the pan is not enough to raise the boiling temp more than just a few degrees so as Rusty states 110 Deg F is more than adequate to boil off the water. Also most modern oils / Synthetics are designed to flow/protect at very low temps

valleyZ · 08-18-2017, 01:07 PM

if you're looking into stillen they're having 15% off just a heads up.

Rusty · 08-19-2017, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Felix 808

Yep once water begins to boil, it changes state to steam & can not get any hotter in liquid form. Pressure in the pan is not enough to raise the boiling temp more than just a few degrees so as Rusty states 110 Deg F is more than adequate to boil off the water. Also most modern oils / Synthetics are designed to flow/protect at very low temps

You're close.

You should work in a power plant. Have water temps as high as 1,500F, steam temps of 2,000F. To get water temps that high. You have to have it under pressure. Pressures high as 3,000 psi. To get temps that high. Most use a 3 element boilers. For our discussion. Water starts to evaporate at around 100F. By 212F, it's boiling. And the little moisture that is trapped in the oil will be gone at around 150F to 170F. Unless you have popped a head gasket.

Felix 808 · 08-20-2017, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You're close.

You should work in a power plant. Have water temps as high as 1,500F, steam temps of 2,000F. To get water temps that high. You have to have it under pressure. Pressures high as 3,000 psi. To get temps that high. Most use a 3 element boilers. For our discussion. Water starts to evaporate at around 100F. By 212F, it's boiling. And the little moisture that is trapped in the oil will be gone at around 150F to 170F. Unless you have popped a head gasket.

Yep the pressure makes all the difference, the same as you can boil water at 0 Deg in a vacuum

Rusty · 08-20-2017, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Felix 808

Yep the pressure makes all the difference, the same as you can boil water at 0 Deg in a vacuum

Yeah, I used to do that trick when teaching noobs on making steam for power generation. Teaching steam tables was a headache. And to get across the difference between wet steam and dry steam.

Spartan 1771 · 10-01-2017, 02:52 PM

This past spring I installed a Mishimoto Oil Cooler with the basic sandwich plate. The cooler works very well, but it's a bit of an issue on cold mornings. The temp has a hard time getting up to 185. I need to devise a cover for the cooler and I was actually considering wrapping it in tin foil and then using a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. Is this a terrible idea?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Rusty · 10-01-2017, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spartan 1771

This past spring I installed a Mishimoto Oil Cooler with the basic sandwich plate. The cooler works very well, but it's a bit of an issue on cold mornings. The temp has a hard time getting up to 185. I need to devise a cover for the cooler and I was actually considering wrapping it in tin foil and then using a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. Is this a terrible idea?

Thanks for the help in advance.

No problem with that. I just use duct tape.

Spartan 1771 · 10-01-2017, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

No problem with that. I just use duct tape.

Ibwas considering that, but I was afraid it was make a real mess in the spring when I remove it.

echoshotz · 10-01-2017, 04:45 PM

I put velcro on the edges of the oil cooler with adhesive and bought small aluminum panels from home depot and attached the other side of the velcro to them. Made a small panel and a big panel, so I can still block off all/none/some of the oil cooler

socce · 10-01-2017, 06:19 PM

How long it should take someone who knows what they are doing to install a z1 25 row setrabo oil cooler with the sandwich plate ?

06-08-2017, 10:09 AM	#20 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	You can always block off a part of the core if it's not getting hot enough. You can't add rows if it's still getting too hot. gomer_110, Rusty, Hotrodz and 2 others like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

08-18-2017, 01:07 PM	#22 (permalink)
valleyZ Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: sun valley Posts: 303 Drives: 10 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	if you're looking into stillen they're having 15% off just a heads up. Jayhovah likes this.

10-01-2017, 02:52 PM	#26 (permalink)
Spartan 1771 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Western Maryland Posts: 1,280 Drives: Wife crazy & 09 370Z Rep Power: 105454	This past spring I installed a Mishimoto Oil Cooler with the basic sandwich plate. The cooler works very well, but it's a bit of an issue on cold mornings. The temp has a hard time getting up to 185. I need to devise a cover for the cooler and I was actually considering wrapping it in tin foil and then using a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. Is this a terrible idea? Thanks for the help in advance. __________________ ~Rob -DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on...

10-01-2017, 04:45 PM	#29 (permalink)
echoshotz Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 218 Drives: 14 Nismo Rep Power: 73	I put velcro on the edges of the oil cooler with adhesive and bought small aluminum panels from home depot and attached the other side of the velcro to them. Made a small panel and a big panel, so I can still block off all/none/some of the oil cooler Spartan 1771 and Memphis370Z like this. __________________ 2014 Solid Red Nismo 370z Motordyne\|Synergy Composites\|Stance Suspension\|Recaro\|RJM\|EVOR

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