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Which oil cooler is the best?

How long it should take someone who knows what they are doing to install a z1 25 row setrabo oil cooler with the sandwich plate ?

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Old 10-01-2017, 05:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How long it should take someone who knows what they are doing to install a z1 25 row setrabo oil cooler with the sandwich plate ?
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Old 10-01-2017, 05:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Couple hours max 3
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Couple hours max 3
With beer breaks.
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Old 10-02-2017, 01:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I went with the AAM R-Line oil cooler for my setup. I just got it installed so dont have many numbers or hard runs on it yet but hopefully it does what it is supposed to do...took a chance on it as I wasnt able to find to much information on it but all the technical specs i've read seem to be legit
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Old 10-02-2017, 09:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Interested to see how this works..

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Originally Posted by bimbimbop View Post
I went with the AAM R-Line oil cooler for my setup. I just got it installed so dont have many numbers or hard runs on it yet but hopefully it does what it is supposed to do...took a chance on it as I wasnt able to find to much information on it but all the technical specs i've read seem to be legit
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Old 10-28-2017, 06:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I wonder if there is a braze issue in the cooler mfg process?
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I kept everything the same from the first install in 2012 other then replacing the core. All hoses look fine after 5 years and I can put the unit 6" in front of the Z on jack stands to examine so there seems to be enough play/slack in the hoses. I don't see any rubbing on the unit. I'd post some pic's but not sure how. I'm just a "basic" member. I did install the Stillen brake cooler ducks which work great with the Z1 2 piece rotors up front with Carbotech pads. This oil cooler is a major issue I need to solve before next year as I was on my way to park my Z in a garage for the Chicago winter. All 4 bolts were tight when I pulled it out to inspect with nothing I could see causing any issues. It's like the row just expanded with to much pressure but I run the stock oil pump.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by glennsz View Post
I kept everything the same from the first install in 2012 other then replacing the core. All hoses look fine after 5 years and I can put the unit 6" in front of the Z on jack stands to examine so there seems to be enough play/slack in the hoses. I don't see any rubbing on the unit. I'd post some pic's but not sure how. I'm just a "basic" member. I did install the Stillen brake cooler ducks which work great with the Z1 2 piece rotors up front with Carbotech pads. This oil cooler is a major issue I need to solve before next year as I was on my way to park my Z in a garage for the Chicago winter. All 4 bolts were tight when I pulled it out to inspect with nothing I could see causing any issues. It's like the row just expanded with to much pressure but I run the stock oil pump.
Out of complete curosity, have you modified anything else in the oil circulation system? Such as the oil pan, oil pan spacer, use a different sandwich plate then the one provided by Stillen or maybe a larger oil filter?
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spartan 1771 View Post
Out of complete curosity, have you modified anything else in the oil circulation system? Such as the oil pan, oil pan spacer, use a different sandwich plate then the one provided by Stillen or maybe a larger oil filter?
Oil pan, or a oil pan spacer would have no effect on the cooler.
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Old 10-29-2017, 12:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Make sure you get a Setrab unit to replace this one with. These kind of issues happen with the cheaper coolers, like Mocal.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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although the Stillen is supposed to have a Setrab core.
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't make any mods to the internal oiling system or pan other then the Stillen kit. Z still has stock suspension so a soft ride compared to aftermarket springs. I had springs on my 1979ZX, big difference on track and street. I would like the 34 row Setrab core but not sure if the hoses and connectors are the same. Otherwise I would need to buy the whole new kit for $600.00 and trash the nice hoses and other parts from the Stillen set-up. Just wondering if I'm the only one with this issue. I would gladly pay the difference for the better core after what I've been though. I just don't want to be the guy that shuts down the track for 20 minutes while they lay down oil dry and brush it off next year. I'll call Stillen tomorrow and see what they say.
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by glennsz View Post
I didn't make any mods to the internal oiling system or pan other then the Stillen kit. Z still has stock suspension so a soft ride compared to aftermarket springs. I had springs on my 1979ZX, big difference on track and street. I would like the 34 row Setrab core but not sure if the hoses and connectors are the same. Otherwise I would need to buy the whole new kit for $600.00 and trash the nice hoses and other parts from the Stillen set-up. Just wondering if I'm the only one with this issue. I would gladly pay the difference for the better core after what I've been though. I just don't want to be the guy that shuts down the track for 20 minutes while they lay down oil dry and brush it off next year. I'll call Stillen tomorrow and see what they say.
This is really strange. I realize the pan and spacer most likely have nothing to do with it, but I was just trying to get a better understanding of what work you have done to the car and any potential issues that could have resulted from that work.

I have a mishimoto cooler and have had zero issues with it for the year I've had it. If I were you, I would most likely replace the entire thing. I realize that's going to cost you quite a bit, but the consequences to losing pressure and oil could cost you a lot more. If you decided to replace it again with the same model, you should consider also installing an oil pressure gauge. At least then you will know immediately when there is an issue.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If installing a oil pressure gauge. Make sure it reads to 150 psi. Cold idle is over 100 psi.
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Old 01-05-2018, 04:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If installing a oil pressure gauge. Make sure it reads to 150 psi. Cold idle is over 100 psi.
Recommendation on gauge brands?

Hard to install?

Estimated labor costs?

Assuming N/A Engine with 34 row oil cooler....

Everyday Oil Pressure around town?

TrackDay pressure?

Canyon run Pressure?
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