CJM Oil Pan

scope22

So one plug and one male fitting option?

jwick

If you want to add an aftermarket oil temperature sender than you need a female fitting. The sender probe is male (usually 1/8"NPT but you would need to confirm with what you buy).

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

phunk

It depends on exactly what you intend to connect to the oil pan. If you do not plan to add anything than what is already there, then you would use 2 plugs.

If you plan on purchasing and installing additional components that you need to put into the oil pan, then this would require a different selection and we would have to know exactly what it is you plan to connect to it so we can look up what type of connection the product uses.

You can also use the 2 plugs for now, and then whenever you add something in the future, just replace a plug with an adapter of your choice. They simply unscrew and can be changed at any time.

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jwick

So it occurred to me in preparation of install that I need OEM bolts for the stock pickup tube bolts and for the pan. Currently running the Wolf spacer and don't recall if I kept the OEM bolts from the install.

Anyone know the part number and qty for the pan bolts and then the two pickup tube bolts?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

phunk

You wont need the OEM hardware... the CJM pan comes with the 10 bolts for the pan in the proper length, a new pickup spacer, and longer pickup bolts to accommodate the spacer.

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jwick

Of course it does. Phunk, you da man!

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

shadow85

So what is the difference between this CJM oil pan and the GTM/Gamma baffled oil pan, which one is better and by how what margin?

The Gamma one is only $295, half the price.

Rusty

The CJM pan is a race pan with trap door baffles. The GTM pan is just a large pan.

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lj909

The gtm pan has the trap door flaps as an option. I have it.

I guess the the differences are the shape and way it's made. Cjm is billet gtm is cast.

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phunk

CJM: American made anodized billet aluminum 6061-T6 with 4 large trap doors around a fully contained sump area.

GTM: Imported cast aluminum with 2 tiny trap doors next to a un-contained sump area.

Just the raw block of aluminum for our pan costs more than an imported cast part. I would vote that our pan is a more practical size. Personally I am not a fan of the giant wings on the GTM pan. I wouldn't want that on my car. Different strokes for different folks!

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phunk

I dont think I ever posted it in this thread...

The last batch received a couple updates. I switched the oil drain plug to use this new super low profile, practically flush, -8 o-ring drain plug with internal hex.

I really like the internal hex, not just because of how low profile it is, but because most people will use an allen key for this, which will drastically reduce the torque they put on it. My gripe with the external hex was that I always feared people who are not used to aluminum oil pans are going to eventually damage the threads over-torquing with the long 19mm box-end wrenches. Thats why I made the plug a larger than stock thread to begin with.

I also machined away some material around the flange, giving it a step, for a minor weight reduction. Pretty much negligible but I saw no harm in the CNC spending another minute or two on each pan to put this step on there... its not like im standing there waiting for each part to finish when the cycle time is so long anyway.

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Spooler

I need to place an order for a another one since my last one went with the totaled car around it. I will get it done eventually. The end of year crunch has been brutal and I still have more work to go.

shadow85

So if I am not going to be tracking my car, well maybe a few times a year at max, and it is only a daily street car, do I need this CJM race pan?

Would the GTM pan be more practical for me?

phunk

I might go out on a limb and say that it sounds like you might not need any pan at all to be honest.

The CJM pan will put a dent in your wallet, no doubt about it. The GTM pan is practically free and I dont see any harm in having it. But the reasons I wouldnt put it on my personal car is because I dont like the big wings... I like race-car style serviceability and being able to reach my hands in everywhere I can. For a turbo car, that pan blocks off valuable hand/arm reach access to turbo system pipe couplers etc. Blocks the oil filter and oil cooler line access too. I also dont like their baffles that much, the flappers look really small and then the top is blocked off for some reason, so now oil returning from the block has to take the long way around to get to the sump area. My CJM pan does the opposite and even has vertical guides to try and influence returning oil to go directly to the sump area.

Too much oil capacity will make it take forever for oil temps to reach operating temp, which would drive me crazy because I will only baby my cars until the oil reaches full operating temp.

If a customers Z was here at my shop and they wanted oil system upgrades but didnt want to flex the cash for the CJM pan, I would use a Z1 oil pan spacer kit and a real nice oil cooler kit. The oil cooler kit will add the cooling ability you need, and the extra capacity you want without going overboard. The stock oil pan spaced down and with the oil pickup spaced down to match, will help reduce oil starvation because deepening the sump and pickup you have greatly increased the ability to keep the oil pickup submerged already... and then again the spacer adds some more displacement without going overboard. IMHO, this combo would be the best budget oil system upgrade path.

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jwick

Can I get the new drain plug?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build