CJM Oil Pan

Spooler · 10-04-2015, 11:28 PM

You wanted pictures, here you go...

If you have never done one of these the lower pan can be a battle to get off. You almost always will nick the sealing surface a little. Just make sure you de-burr it. You don't want any high spots.

I used Nissan 3 Bond. I had some from when I replaced a valve cover on my wifes car. Just put a bead all the way around and smooth it down with your finger. Don't worry about the little bit that get's in the bolt holes.

3 Bond Bead before I smoothed it out.

Notice the little bead all the way around the pan when I tightened it up. You don't need RTV oozing out.

Now for the finished product without that damn tab. I had to run to the parts
store, I was out of cutoff wheels and thought I was out of 3 Bond. I found some more once I bought some new stuff as usual.

Here is the pan after the unboxing.

Bag o parts.

Then the fun started..... Z1 oil cooler install. Gonna finish that up tomorrow, I need to pick up some antifreeze.

Rusty · 10-04-2015, 11:36 PM

In that 2nd pic from the top. You got enough rtv for 2 pans.

Spooler · 10-05-2015, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

In that 2nd pic from the top. You got enough rtv for 2 pans.

It's not that thick. LOL I have done so many front cover jobs in my past it is not even funny. You know the 12hr ones just to replace the 2 orings that go from the front cover to the oil pump. KA24DE, VG30DE, KA24E, etc. That's why my shoulders are shot. Working over my head all day holding air ratchets. They sound like I have gravel in them.

Rusty · 10-05-2015, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

It's not that thick. LOL I have done so many front cover jobs in my past it is not even funny. You know the 12hr ones just to replace the 2 orings that go from the front cover to the oil pump. KA24DE, VG30DE, KA24E, etc. That's why my shoulders are shot. Working over my head all day holding air ratchets. They sound like I have gravel in them.

I know those type of jobs. Take all day just to get to the piece that needs replaced. Then take another day to button it up.

I always hated working over head. Try welding overhead for 12hr a day.

Glad I no longer do that.

10-04-2015, 11:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,373 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	In that 2nd pic from the top. You got enough rtv for 2 pans. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-04-2015, 11:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,985 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	You wanted pictures, here you go... If you have never done one of these the lower pan can be a battle to get off. You almost always will nick the sealing surface a little. Just make sure you de-burr it. You don't want any high spots. I used Nissan 3 Bond. I had some from when I replaced a valve cover on my wifes car. Just put a bead all the way around and smooth it down with your finger. Don't worry about the little bit that get's in the bolt holes. 3 Bond Bead before I smoothed it out. Notice the little bead all the way around the pan when I tightened it up. You don't need RTV oozing out. Now for the finished product without that damn tab. I had to run to the parts store, I was out of cutoff wheels and thought I was out of 3 Bond. I found some more once I bought some new stuff as usual. Here is the pan after the unboxing. Bag o parts. Then the fun started..... Z1 oil cooler install. Gonna finish that up tomorrow, I need to pick up some antifreeze.