CJM Oil Pan

jrb55gh · 07-17-2015, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I was thinking about changing the basic baffle top to have some short vertical areas like shown. I have to settle on the top baffle in the next day or two as the laser cutter will cut them in the next few days.

Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.

phunk · 07-17-2015, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

That figures, I have to do an oil change this weekend. Guess it will be next oil change when it get's installed. How long does the anodizing take, 1-2 weeks?

Usually about 2 weeks. They always quote 2-3 days, and then take 14-16 or so.

phunk · 07-17-2015, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrb55gh

Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.

I can include drilled bolts. I like the idea of them too... even though the bolts would never fit through the oil pump pickup, and there are countless other non-wired small bolts in the crankcase LOL

jrb55gh · 07-18-2015, 11:02 AM

P1010949.JPG P1010948.JPGIt is not likely that the baffles would be removed very often so locking fasteners would be good to do the job of safety wire in the instance. Here are pictures of a couple of flange locking bolts that are available.

phunk · 07-18-2015, 05:23 PM

I ordered some pre-drilled screws to try out that will be here Monday. I wouldnt want to have to drill those little holes in those screws! They dont have the flange in them, my supplier doesnt carry any pre-drilled with flange or locking flange. I will supply the stainless wire for it also. For the screws I went with Black-Oxide alloy steel since its tensile strength (170,000psi) was more than double the prettier stainless variant (80,000psi).

They are 10-32 thread and 1/2" thread length. The prototype baffle top plate was .115" thick but for production I am going .060" to make it a little lighter. Well actually I told the laser cutter to play with it and if the .060" felt flimsy to just use the .115". The thicker plate is 9oz and far more sturdy than necessary, so I figured on going lighter and a few drops more oil capacity with thinner plate as long as its still sturdy... I left it up to him.

He plans to cut the baffles tomorrow, so I might have them by tuesday or wednesday.

Mike · 07-19-2015, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Well it's been this long! What have you been doing not to blow it? Accumulator?

I have no idea! I take it to 82-8400 rpm all the time and other than the normal bolt ons and tune, its all stock. 24000 miles on it at this point.

Japanjay · 07-20-2015, 09:16 PM

Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?

phunk · 07-20-2015, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Japanjay

Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?

You got it!

derraj06 · 07-22-2015, 10:56 AM

Sent you something via PayPal. Looking forward to getting this thing installed.

DR_ · 07-22-2015, 11:12 AM

Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us?

Chuck33079 · 07-22-2015, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us?

phunk · 07-22-2015, 01:59 PM

Probably LOL. I will play with it and check it out. Just waiting on the baffle plates. I am on his ***. Dealing with vendors is so frustrating!!!

The wire and the drilled screws are here, and the pans are pretty much done. Just have to start adding the oil drain ports for those customers. I havent done it yet because I am sitting on the fence thinking about using a NPT thread about the same size as the -10ORB because I think it might be better for most customers. I dont generally like NPT threads, but I think customers might like it better for tightening and feeling good about it being tight and leak free.

phunk · 07-22-2015, 02:15 PM

2 Photos attached... 1 showing the pans are done machining other than oil drains.

Second photo shows the baffle top plate that is being made.

I added the vertical wings and positioned them so that they will focus all the oil coming back from the rear of the engine / upper pan area into the sump area. They are positioned to recover most of that. Their exact position will make more sense when I post pictures of it with the upper pan attached from the inside.

My thought process on this was lets try and almost take the side wings of the lower pan out of the equation so that oil can recirculate more easily. With oil circulation mostly bypassing the outside wings of the pan, these wings serve just as oil displacement and as surge protection where oil can easily travel from the wing to the sump, but oil can only really get into the wing through oil level, which means there was a surplus of oil to spare for storage in the wing. I hope I am describing this in a way that makes sense. Basically I wanted the baffle system to not be a full time part of oil circulation, but to mostly act as walls and reduce sump area for oil to get away, but then these walls are also check valves to allow stored oil in the wings to enter.

ENT-Z · 07-22-2015, 04:03 PM

Looks good Charles! I don't know how to do safety wire properly, so if it is a good idea then I would ask to have you install it as well.

phunk · 07-22-2015, 04:08 PM

Its really easy you just connect the 6 bolts together by running the wire through the holes in the bolts, easier than tying your shoes. This way they could never spin out. It actually doesnt even need wire anyway, its just a racey precaution.

07-18-2015, 11:02 AM	#229 (permalink)
jrb55gh Base Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: DFW Texas Posts: 149 Drives: '13 370z black 7AT Rep Power: 12	P1010949.JPG P1010948.JPGIt is not likely that the baffles would be removed very often so locking fasteners would be good to do the job of safety wire in the instance. Here are pictures of a couple of flange locking bolts that are available. synolimit likes this.

07-18-2015, 05:23 PM	#230 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	I ordered some pre-drilled screws to try out that will be here Monday. I wouldnt want to have to drill those little holes in those screws! They dont have the flange in them, my supplier doesnt carry any pre-drilled with flange or locking flange. I will supply the stainless wire for it also. For the screws I went with Black-Oxide alloy steel since its tensile strength (170,000psi) was more than double the prettier stainless variant (80,000psi). They are 10-32 thread and 1/2" thread length. The prototype baffle top plate was .115" thick but for production I am going .060" to make it a little lighter. Well actually I told the laser cutter to play with it and if the .060" felt flimsy to just use the .115". The thicker plate is 9oz and far more sturdy than necessary, so I figured on going lighter and a few drops more oil capacity with thinner plate as long as its still sturdy... I left it up to him. He plans to cut the baffles tomorrow, so I might have them by tuesday or wednesday. ENT-Z likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

07-22-2015, 10:56 AM	#234 (permalink)
derraj06 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 406 Drives: MB 370z Rep Power: 12	Sent you something via PayPal. Looking forward to getting this thing installed. phunk likes this.

07-22-2015, 11:12 AM	#235 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us? ENT-Z and phunk like this.

07-22-2015, 01:59 PM	#237 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Probably LOL. I will play with it and check it out. Just waiting on the baffle plates. I am on his *. Dealing with vendors is so frustrating!!! The wire and the drilled screws are here, and the pans are pretty much done. Just have to start adding the oil drain ports for those customers. I havent done it yet because I am sitting on the fence thinking about using a NPT thread about the same size as the -10ORB because I think it might be better for most customers. I dont generally like NPT threads, but I think customers might like it better for tightening and feeling good about it being tight and leak free. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph** Last edited by phunk; 07-22-2015 at 02:07 PM.

07-20-2015, 09:16 PM	#232 (permalink)
Japanjay Track Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Puyallup Posts: 856 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z MB M6 Rep Power: 14	Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?

07-22-2015, 04:03 PM	#239 (permalink)
ENT-Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 460 Drives: 09 MB 6MT 370Z Rep Power: 16	Looks good Charles! I don't know how to do safety wire properly, so if it is a good idea then I would ask to have you install it as well. phunk likes this.

07-22-2015, 04:08 PM	#240 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Its really easy you just connect the 6 bolts together by running the wire through the holes in the bolts, easier than tying your shoes. This way they could never spin out. It actually doesnt even need wire anyway, its just a racey precaution. ENT-Z likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph