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CJM Oil Pan

I dont think we will do that, for a few reasons. By the time the part is back from anodizing, the CNC will have been setup for other parts, so

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Old 05-30-2015, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I dont think we will do that, for a few reasons. By the time the part is back from anodizing, the CNC will have been setup for other parts, so it would take a few hours start to finish to do it. Also, I would have to make new fixturing the hold the pan in the CNC after anodizing as the existing fixturing would not work for that because the way it holds the pan in that position gets machined off later. Additionally there is always potential for messing up a part when setting up a new CNC operation.. in this case it would be a part that was otherwise finished and done, which means an expensive mistake. Adding to that, there is a chance of the anodizing chipping off around the edges of machining leaving a rough edge.
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I dont think we will do that, for a few reasons. By the time the part is back from anodizing, the CNC will have been setup for other parts, so it would take a few hours start to finish to do it. Also, I would have to make new fixturing the hold the pan in the CNC after anodizing as the existing fixturing would not work for that because the way it holds the pan in that position gets machined off later. Additionally there is always potential for messing up a part when setting up a new CNC operation.. in this case it would be a part that was otherwise finished and done, which means an expensive mistake. Adding to that, there is a chance of the anodizing chipping off around the edges of machining leaving a rough edge.
Nismo Red for me then. I will pay the extra coin. Shoot me a PM and let me know when/where to make my deposit.
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nismo Red for me then. I will pay the extra coin. Shoot me a PM and let me know when/where to make my deposit.
Just a heads up, anodizing isnt like body paint... I can have them do red, but it probably wont look like the same red as the car! We can ask for darker or lighter colors, but they wont guarantee any color matching.
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just a heads up, anodizing isnt like body paint... I can have them do red, but it probably wont look like the same red as the car! We can ask for darker or lighter colors, but they wont guarantee any color matching.
I knew the color would be off a bit. That's fine.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Charles - dumb question. This a one time batch?
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Old 05-30-2015, 05:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Unlikely, I think there will be more - The purpose of the pre-orders is mostly so I knew how many to produce. They are somewhat significant items for inventory and I wouldnt want to sit on 20 of them for years, and I wouldnt want to make 5 to have 10 more people ask for one a week later.

I will make a few more than the presales, and depending on how long it takes to sell those few will determine if and when another batch is made, and how many.
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Old 05-30-2015, 05:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Unlikely, I think there will be more - The purpose of the pre-orders is mostly so I knew how many to produce. They are somewhat significant items for inventory and I wouldnt want to sit on 20 of them for years, and I wouldnt want to make 5 to have 10 more people ask for one a week later.

I will make a few more than the presales, and depending on how long it takes to sell those few will determine if and when another batch is made, and how many.

Cool. Then I think I'll wait until later. Got some other things I need to address before I drop $700 on a oil pan when I've already got a pan spacer for additional capacity.
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Old 05-30-2015, 05:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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oh and add me to the list too!!
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Couple screen shots from CAD showing the updates discussed:

The groove for pan sealant, it wont be as deep as it appears in the pics.

The 2 areas for starting a screwdriver or other pry tool for removal.

-10 AN turbo drain adapters (optional).

Feel free to comment likes or dislikes of these changes.
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File Type: jpg update1.jpg (135.4 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg update2.jpg (89.4 KB, 70 views)
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Couple screen shots from CAD showing the updates discussed:

The groove for pan sealant, it wont be as deep as it appears in the pics.

The 2 areas for starting a screwdriver or other pry tool for removal.

-10 AN turbo drain adapters (optional).

Feel free to comment likes or dislikes of these changes.


I like your changes. My Z is NA, therefore the turbo oiling holes are not required.

Possible features to add:

1. Baffle flap inspection holes.
2. Raised baffle that also encloses the pickup more ala AM Performance.
3. Threaded holes for jam screws to remove pan.

Last edited by jrb55gh; 05-31-2015 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Couple screen shots from CAD showing the updates discussed:

The groove for pan sealant, it wont be as deep as it appears in the pics.

The 2 areas for starting a screwdriver or other pry tool for removal.

-10 AN turbo drain adapters (optional).

Feel free to comment likes or dislikes of these changes.

One more feature request to evaluate:

Fabricate the top horizontal plate baffle to overhang the outer edges of the vertical baffles in the pan by about 0.75" to help prevent oil from rolling over the top of the vertical baffles in high G turns.
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrb55gh View Post
One more feature request to evaluate:

Fabricate the top horizontal plate baffle to overhang the outer edges of the vertical baffles in the pan by about 0.75" to help prevent oil from rolling over the top of the vertical baffles in high G turns.
I had considered extending out a little bit for the purpose of promoting the outside oil to use the baffles rather than the top, due to wondering if this might work better for the oil pickup.

What if instead of extending the horizontal plate out to the sides more, we had it take a 90 degree turn upward for that 0.75"? Than perhaps some small openings at the base of it to allow oil in the middle against this new vertical wall a place to pass-through to underneath the plate?

What are your thoughts on that?
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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For those that are nervousness. I've tracked my AM pan for over a year now. NO PROBLEMS! The pan where it bolts against the block is flat. No groove. I used black rtv that is O2 safe. NO leaks around the pan. As for questions about the baffles. Don't worry. phunk's pan is an up-dated version of the AM Perf. So it will perform. If I didn't have the AM Perf pan. I would be up phunk's asss about one too.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I had considered extending out a little bit for the purpose of promoting the outside oil to use the baffles rather than the top, due to wondering if this might work better for the oil pickup.

What if instead of extending the horizontal plate out to the sides more, we had it take a 90 degree turn upward for that 0.75"? Than perhaps some small openings at the base of it to allow oil in the middle against this new vertical wall a place to pass-through to underneath the plate?

What are your thoughts on that?
I am guessing that there may be as much as 2 quarts of oil trapped in the upper part of the engine at 7500 rpm. That makes the level of oil in the pan lower than when the engine is at low rpm. I haven’t seen inside a VQ37, but if it doesn’t have an oil scraper pan under the crankshaft, the vertical baffle with the small openings you suggested may be above the surface of the oil and might actually help recover some of the oil spinning with the crankshaft. So maybe the vertical portion of the baffle should be taller than .75” and maybe 1.25”. But if we are catching windage from the spinning crank, the vertical baffle may need support. You’ve been inside the engine. Does this concept make sense?
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I am guessing that there may be as much as 2 quarts of oil trapped in the upper part of the engine at 7500 rpm. That makes the level of oil in the pan lower than when the engine is at low rpm. I haven’t seen inside a VQ37, but if it doesn’t have an oil scraper pan under the crankshaft, the vertical baffle with the small openings you suggested may be above the surface of the oil and might actually help recover some of the oil spinning with the crankshaft. So maybe the vertical portion of the baffle should be taller than .75” and maybe 1.25”. But if we are catching windage from the spinning crank, the vertical baffle may need support. You’ve been inside the engine. Does this concept make sense?
Have you had your oil pan off and looked up at the crank? You would have to remove the lower part of the motor to install a crank scraper. The lower part of the motor and oil pan is designed like a deep sump pan to begin with. With the sump in the front part of the motor.
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