CJM Oil Pan

phunk

I wish my phone was in better shape to still take great photos, these dont really capture the awesome depth to the matte surface finish when parts are prepared for anodizing, but I thought I would post anyway. I would leave some parts this finish if it would actually hold up in the real world... but the soft aluminum with this delicately prepped finish would look like hell after a week of use. This finish really helps the anodizing though: it makes it deeper and fuller, and more durable.

This is the only pan being anodized black that doesnt have oil drain ports. The anodizer has been holding out a batch of black parts (road race pump canisters) for a couple weeks, and I am going to pop in tomorrow and if they are not done then I am going to put the pressure on and also give him this pan to take care of with them.

Ignore the specs, thats stuck to the lens of the phone camera

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phunk

top plate fitted in just for fun.

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phunk

Little more photo spam here... this will be cdoxp800's pan I believe.

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GaleForce

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GaleForce

Ok I'm just going to put this out there right now. When you finish the new intake, I want the first one.

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Spooler

Get in line.

cdoxp800

Oh, yeaa

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2011 Brilliant Silver NISMO 370z. #: 0046.
PPE LTH | MillSpec Cats | F.I Exhaust | Akuma Intakes | Rotora 6/4 Brakes

phunk

UPDATE: Pans are all going in the CNC again today for a quick change.

I am changing the oil drain plug threads from m12x1.25 to 9/16-18, which is also -6AN, which is of course a very popular thread.

Due to this change, I will be providing a new oil drain plug with all the pans.

Why did I make this change? The Nissan M12x1.25 did not pass my torque cycle testing. Its a very fine pitch thread for a M12, making it relatively weak. Having used aluminum pans with stock threads on the VQ before, I know how crappy the threads can get after a few oil changes. I originally thought that the higher quality billet aluminum would take this in stride, but I was wrong. Nissan intended this thread size for a steel pan, and thats just where it belongs.

Torque cycle testing was performed by soaking the threads and drain plug in oil, torquing, loosening, reapplying oil, repeat. Having oil on the washer surfaces and threads increases thread load tremendously.

Luckily, the washer pad on the oil pans was made just large enough diameter to accomodate -6 washers. So I am now running the pans through again and upgrading the threads for the drain plugs.

Moving forward, I am hoping to start cutting the oil pump pickup extensions tomorrow. I am also expecting the special cutter for the -10ORB ports to show up in the next day or two.

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jrb55gh

Perhaps a helicoil would work if you haven't already changed the threads.

nismo13807

is there any magnetic drain plug that fits this?

phunk

I havent seen anything like that, 9/16x18 or -6an arent typical production vehicle drain plug threads, AN fittings are more aftermarket/racing type hardware.

If people want something like that, it wouldnt be difficult for us to machine a bore into some -6 plugs and press a magnet in. Should be pretty inexpensive to accomplish.

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jwick

A magnetic plug would be awesome

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

ENT-Z

Agree - i like my current magnetic plug - seems like a no brainer cheap thing to do.

Mike

I hate to be a debbie downer, but I think I want to sell mine. If anyone wants it, let me know. I'm still buying it, because I committed to it, but I am open to selling. Want to start saving for a v8 swap instead

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

jwick

PM Galeforce. I think he mentioned he should have gotten in on it. Neverbonestock was wanting one too.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build