Originally Posted by Chuck33079 Shamu hit that mark on a built 4.0 on E85, but it was a full race motor. Not something you could run on the street. 1Slow
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05-11-2015, 12:27 AM | #46 (permalink) | |
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05-15-2015, 12:17 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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I just spoke with Sam at GTM (easy now... Easy). He says they are moving and therefore won't have anything ready for about 2 weeks but he'll get back to me then. I'm VERY interested in this solution so I'll keep posting about my journey to delivery with GTM. Wish me luck.
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05-16-2015, 12:45 AM | #49 (permalink) | |
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05-16-2015, 11:26 PM | #50 (permalink) | |
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There was talk from his investors about moving them into a more of a manufacturing location but until I get confirmation it's only speculation. Right now they are in a much smaller shop with enough room for a few lifts, their inventory, a dyno and a few offices. There isn't room for much else. Mike
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05-17-2015, 12:21 AM | #51 (permalink) |
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^ I always wanted to visit GTM's shop .. Despite the issues people been thro with them, i still look at them as VQ's devils lol. Fella gotta appreciate their work for all these years at least ! ... Thank you GTM
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05-17-2015, 02:19 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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Hey cool its the pan i designed. I hope it comes to completion. The advantage of wet over dry is its waaaaay cheaper my drysump was almost $8k and the daileys one is 6k for just the pump/pan plus 3k in the rest of the system. Also the pump on a wet sump is alot smaller so you can keep your ac. The downside of the wet sump is no engine vaccumm and you are more likely to starve the motor than a drysump system. This kit would be perfect for guys on a limited budget that have things like a better manifold and want to take advantage of the power betond 8krpm as going to an external pump means that instead of spinning the oil pump at crank rpm you can pulley it down to 30-70% less.
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05-17-2015, 05:54 PM | #53 (permalink) | |
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05-18-2015, 04:05 AM | #55 (permalink) |
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Who knows how much they will end up charging for it. Realistically to go past 9000k rpm and not 8000 you are going to need a lot of work. The oil pump is a part of it but i can see the springs running out past 8500. You also need a minimum of an ati damper properly tuned, new rods(at least rod bolts) a full dynamic rotating assembly balancing, some form of external oil pump, jun stage2 exhaust cams, and manifolds that can actually support. That kindof flow. The guy who bought my old car would only have to put a few thousand more in to get to 9000rpm and 400+ wheel hp. He is dropping it off these week for an oil change and a few more things. Pretty sure he is slowly turning it into a track toy. I am hoping that someday somebody will give me the chance to doa couple of the builds i have planned out. A 7-800whp Supercharger kit, a standalone ecu race car vhr na build, not to mention completing my current project '74-'04 400zx. I have gone away but im not out of the game lol.
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05-18-2015, 10:10 AM | #56 (permalink) | |
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05-18-2015, 10:27 AM | #57 (permalink) |
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Another question. I'm waiting for cj motorsports manifold to come and was considering getting a jun cam and getting it installed while the manifold is off. I know that you said the cam doesn't really start producing power until 8,000 rpms, but for the sake of not having to take all the parts off again when I'm ready to install the cam.
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05-18-2015, 02:30 PM | #58 (permalink) | |
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05-20-2015, 09:58 PM | #59 (permalink) | |
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As for the jun cams do it just don't get the stage ones they are better for FI cars.
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05-20-2015, 10:01 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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also if you are in there and you want to rpm remember you need to pull the front apart to remove the OE oil pump for running an external pump. of course the car won't be able to run until ou get the pump and pan so it looks like you will be cracking her open twice anyway. Also BMW m5 v8 arp conrod bolts can be used instead of oems and with a dynamic balancing and an ati damper (you need for the oil pump drive) you will be ready to go.
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