Internal upgradess
 

Iv heard that the stock pistons and rods on the 370Z are very durable. What PSI are you guys running on your stock internals?

Most are around 8-10 psi... But note that most people use HP and Torque numbers when discussing how much the internals can hold.

The problem some people run into with our motors is that every once in a while a motor may have a slightly bent rod... those motors tend to not last as long as others. Typical gauge for a "safe" and I say that lightly is running a boosted car with less than 500ftlbs of torque... many have put tens of thousands of miles on cars making right at or below 500ftlbs. Anything over that and history has shown us the motors typically throw a rod through the oil pan or out the side of the block...

My personal experience came in a kroger parking lot going from a 4 way stop... randomly just blew...

The cranks on these engines are not ideal. Just about every engine we retire has a broken/cracked crank.
Just an FYI


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On an N/A engine? Really?! What are your cap rpm shifts at?

Any suggestions on the recommended internal upgrades if you want your engine to last? And maybe an idea of how much someone's looking at spending if they want to build up their block?

What is your intended purpose for the built block? N/A? FI? WHP/WTQ levels?

This is huge, what are you building the engine for, N/A v Boost will be very different.
Such as Dwnshift (Doran Racing) is built for racing and must stay N/A others here are going SC/TT/T and need different compression, rev limits, etc.

For the OP, it really depends, the engines are good so far with many people putting on high mileage with boost but you also need to invest in supporting mods, a good tune, and keeping up proper maintenance.

I suppose for the sake of this thread FI would be the desired hypothetical here. Since the engine "seems" (with exceptions) to be reliable up to 450/500whp, what say we assume it's over that threshold.

This is meant to be purely hypothetical and give people a ball park for how much work they can expect to put into a build. If I do go FI, it won't be for atleast 3 more years.

Here's a good start

2009+ Nissan 370z VQ37VHR Custom Engine Packages

Internal upgradess
 

2015 we run billet cranks now which were approved... They are a couple lbs heavier than OEM cranks but they are lasting.
We are limited to 8750 on the RPM.
I heavily suggest dry sump or bare min NISMO oil pump.

Also from what we have seen... 1 missed shift..... Can be all it takes.




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yeah dude the reciprocating motion is whats destroying the crankshaft, the cylinders and rods are very heavy and under 8750rpm its just a crazy amount of stress. If u would have upgraded to lighter rods that do actually have an oiling port, u would have been good. I dont know if its allowed in ur competitions, i my self have recently drew titanium rods total weight with bushing and APR 2000 bolts ~450grams, i think with OEM crank u can reach 10k rpm and maybe even more.

Not an option


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Well in that case since they allowed billet crank, ill they allow other metals such as Titanium crankshaft?

Negative.


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Dwnshift: Are you running a proprietary billet crank or an off the shelf aftermarket crank that anyone can buy?

Thanks for the info guys. Saving for the GTM stage 2 TT kit along with new clutch/flywheel and oil cooling system. Im buying all at once when i can.

Aaand here we go!:ugh2: you might want to research gtm when it comes to there products and customer service. I'm sure these guys will attest to it.

Agree with my brother Merv tonight........:iagree:

wishing you well tonight Merv

-Clifford :tup:

I'll let Dwnshift confirm this but I understand that Clark Steppler @ JWT spec'd up a billet crank made by Bryant Racing (Bryant Racing High Quality Custom Crankshafts | Custom Crankshafts for NHRA, NASCAR made in the USA).

I'm sure if you contact JWT they can confirm (if Dwnshift is offline for a while).

The Doran Nismo also uses Dailey dry-sump and the category rev-limit for their cars is 8750rpm - my NISMO info out of Kelly Motorsport here in AUS is the the VQ37 should be OK up to 8800rpm with good rods (Carillo etc) and ARP fasteners and a little less with a 92mm crank (8000-8200) if you are looking for race engine life of ~40 hours.

In terms of revlimits though, you also have to be careful of over-rev on downshift as I put a sequential dog-box in my race car over the Xmas break and spun a big-end bearing at the first event in the New Year because down-shifting is soooo easy now, I went one gear too many and ruined a forged crank and @ AUS$5K each, it was a painful error. I am shifting manually at present but will eventually put a paddle-shifter in the car and can then put some defensive measures in the ECU to refuse a command to down-shift if that results in an over-rev.

For another thread though - a sequential shift box is nothing short of brilliant in a race-car !!

If you want TT buy Fast Intentions