Over-Cooling Solutions

ChrisSlicks · 11-24-2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

The standard street-sized one from Stillen. It's their kit, actually, except I tossed their sandwich plate and used the Mocal 180. I actually just went out to drop off a prescription and got it up to 205. The difference is that it's 60 degrees out right now, and only about 40 at 5am when I go to the gym!

Actually on a side note, how much room would you say you have inbetween the Stillen Setrab core and the Gen3 intakes? Trying to determine if there is room for the larger Setrab 34-row and the intake.

semtex · 11-24-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Actually on a side note, how much room would you say you have inbetween the Stillen Setrab core and the Gen3 intakes? Trying to determine if there is room for the larger Setrab 34-row and the intake.

Okay, see this pic:

The top of my core sits right below the silver tow hook loop thingy. That should give you an idea.

semtex · 11-24-2009, 05:43 PM

Wow. That thing is huge! Now that I see it, I understand why you were worried about the G3s, lol. I think it'll fit. It'll be tight, but it'll fit (hopefully).

ResIpsa · 11-24-2009, 05:53 PM

I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates.

I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked.

Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution?

imag · 11-24-2009, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ResIpsa

I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates.

I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked.

Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution?

gaffers tape from permacel and pro gaffer

Sorry... I had to.

I actually may end up doing just that. I have a black car, and I'm not that image conscious. If I just have to tape it up when I leave the track once a month, it's not a big deal...

bucketman · 11-24-2009, 08:19 PM

Where is the oil temp sensor on our cars located?
The reason I ask is, I wonder if the thermostat's are starting to open to soon because they are in direct contact with the block? Possible?

I also saw that Jagg Oil Coolers makes a manual bypass ($65 Model 4000). Install it in the lines up front, reach into the grill to turn it on or off 100% bypass. Drawback is no AN fittings. Bummer.

ChrisSlicks · 11-24-2009, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucketman

Where is the oil temp sensor on our cars located?
The reason I ask is, I wonder if the thermostat's are starting to open to soon because they are in direct contact with the block? Possible?

As the Mocal thermostat is mechanical this doesn't seem likely given the rate of oil flow through it.

Modshack · 11-26-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ResIpsa

I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates.

I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked.

Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution?

OK! Here we go. This took all of 15 minutes to cut and lay-out and should take no more than 10 minutes to install or remove....
Cost should range from $0 to a few bucks for the metal.

Lets start:

First, remove the plastic shroud between the bumper and the radiator (pop out the push rivets...5 minutes). You can then see and reach your cooler:

Now, depending on how much blockage you desire cut a piece of sheet metal to cover X amount of inches of the cooler. This will vary depending on your cooler size and whether or not you have fittings on the top that need to be compensated for. I sized mine to cover about 1/3rd of my 24 row cooler, essentially turning it into a 16 row. I used some flashing I had laying around for the experiment, but I think doing it in a sturdier aluminum would be better:

Bend into a "U" shape on a Bending brake if you have it, or you could just bend it over a 2x4. Most coolers are 1.5" thick:

Now just reach down and slip it over your cooler. You could even put a handle on the top to make this easier. Adjust your bends so it hugs the cooler to stay in place. About 1/3rd of the 24 row cooler is blocked here:

From the front. I think you'd want to stealth it with a little black paint, but this is just for proof of concept. Snap your shroud back into place and you're done until next summer.
(oh yeah, clean off the bugs while you're in there!)

No driving on this yet but I will over the weekend (supposed to be cool here) to see the results. I suspect it will work just ducky!

Final with Stealth paint job now in winter mode...:

ChrisSlicks · 11-26-2009, 02:55 PM

Nice simple design, piece of cake to make. Might be a little more difficult to put in place if you have the fittings on the top but as long as you take that into account when making it I don't think there will be a problem.

Nice work!

Modshack · 11-26-2009, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Nice simple design, piece of cake to make. Might be a little more difficult to put in place if you have the fittings on the top but as long as you take that into account when making it I don't think there will be a problem.

Nice work!

Thanks! Simple and easy. I'll do some drive impressions and temp observations tomorrow!

semtex · 11-24-2009, 08:42 PM

See that gold/brass looking piece in the picture? That's the oil temp sensor.

Here's the exploded view from the service manual:

bucketman · 11-24-2009, 10:30 PM

Yep, after seeing the location of the sensor I understand. My thought was, having a remote inline thermostat, further from the block, may restrict the flow for longer than the t-stat sitting on the side of the block. But the temp sensor is right next to the sandwich plate ,so the reading should be very close to what the thermostat is also seeing. Oh well....next

KEVTEX · 11-26-2009, 11:23 AM

The Mocal adapter appears to have a spring in it. Can you shim the spring or shorten the spring to change the temperature setting? I'd like to see what is inside. The other brand of sandwich adapters(perma-cool,hayden,transdapt,earls,derale and canton) don't seem to have a way to get inside.

Modshack · 11-26-2009, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KEVTEX

The Mocal adapter appears to have a spring in it. Can you shim the spring or shorten the spring to change the temperature setting? I'd like to see what is inside. The other brand of sandwich adapters(perma-cool,hayden,transdapt,earls,derale and canton) don't seem to have a way to get inside.

Probably not a good idea. Most performance shop only carry the 180 degree model, but a 203 degree version is available from the distributor..

Keep in mind, either will constantly bleed oil to the cooler as discussed earlier:

Quote:

Mocal oil thermostats are designed to regulate oil flow
through cooling devices until optimal (minimum)
temperatures are reached. Cold oil enters the
thermostat and is bypassed through the center of the
unit returning to engine (figure 1). During warm-up
the thermostat never closes off oil flow to the cooler,
rather, it offers a less restrictive path for the oil to flow*
allowing the cooler to acclimate to system
temperature. As oil warms to 180 degrees (200 in high
temp versions) the operating "waxstat" closes the
bypass permitting full flow to cooler (figure 2).
*percentage of oil bypass can vary up to the point
where the bypass is closed and full flow to the cooler
is achieved.

http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.p...t1=Get+Pricing

My Core size (similar to the Stillen) and 180 stat result in temps from 180 to 210 under most all conditions. I get very slight overcooling (175) on a cool day, cruising at speed. If I lived in a colder envoirnment and didn't track the car I think I might consider a smaller core and the 203 degree plate. This would take the edge off the temps at the high end in the summer, but not overcool in the winter...Just a thought..

Mike · 11-26-2009, 04:20 PM

my friend has a nascar craftsman truck oil cooler on his 350. it now holds 11 qts, and he says he just tapes it up in winter. but then again, we are in the south.

11-24-2009, 05:43 PM	#3 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 33	Wow. That thing is huge! Now that I see it, I understand why you were worried about the G3s, lol. I think it'll fit. It'll be tight, but it'll fit (hopefully). __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

11-24-2009, 05:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates. I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked. Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution? __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

11-24-2009, 08:42 PM	#11 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 33	See that gold/brass looking piece in the picture? That's the oil temp sensor. Here's the exploded view from the service manual: __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. Last edited by semtex; 11-24-2009 at 08:46 PM.

11-26-2009, 04:20 PM	#15 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	my friend has a nascar craftsman truck oil cooler on his 350. it now holds 11 qts, and he says he just tapes it up in winter. but then again, we are in the south. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

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11-24-2009, 08:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
bucketman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Prairieville,LA Posts: 306 Drives: 09 Nismo 370Z MB Rep Power: 16	Where is the oil temp sensor on our cars located? The reason I ask is, I wonder if the thermostat's are starting to open to soon because they are in direct contact with the block? Possible? I also saw that Jagg Oil Coolers makes a manual bypass ($65 Model 4000). Install it in the lines up front, reach into the grill to turn it on or off 100% bypass. Drawback is no AN fittings. Bummer.

11-26-2009, 02:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Nice simple design, piece of cake to make. Might be a little more difficult to put in place if you have the fittings on the top but as long as you take that into account when making it I don't think there will be a problem. Nice work!

11-24-2009, 10:30 PM	#12 (permalink)
bucketman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Prairieville,LA Posts: 306 Drives: 09 Nismo 370Z MB Rep Power: 16	Yep, after seeing the location of the sensor I understand. My thought was, having a remote inline thermostat, further from the block, may restrict the flow for longer than the t-stat sitting on the side of the block. But the temp sensor is right next to the sandwich plate ,so the reading should be very close to what the thermostat is also seeing. Oh well....next

11-26-2009, 11:23 AM	#13 (permalink)
KEVTEX Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 119 Drives: 2010 370Z 7at sp pg Rep Power: 16	The Mocal adapter appears to have a spring in it. Can you shim the spring or shorten the spring to change the temperature setting? I'd like to see what is inside. The other brand of sandwich adapters(perma-cool,hayden,transdapt,earls,derale and canton) don't seem to have a way to get inside.