No Problem! Someone on another similar thread was looking into the Canton Thermostat/Bypass. No idea if it works like the Mocal or not. Spensive though at $180+

There is actually a very simple solution to all this:

Wolverine Engine Oil Heaters









:p

^You have to plug that in though, right?

Huh?.....I think the worry here is RUNNING temps, not STARTING temps..

(ah...Nebermind...A joke I see!....Missed the tongue guy)

Ok, Shot a note to Think automotive, they are the manufacturer of mocal and here is the response I received.

Harold,
Thanks for your email. The design of our standard thermo sandwich plate is such that in cold conditions you should not get any flow through the cooler. All though it is an open circuit it is far easier for the oil coming out of the engine to simply bypass through the centre of the stat and not to push a cold head of oil around the cooler. It may be in some instances that you are getting a small amount of circulation around the cooler but i would have thought this unlikely.
What makes you think the oil is currently going through the cooler?
I will give it some thought and if we have any ideas will let you know.
Regards
Matt

Matthew Potter
Think Automotive Ltd
Tel: 020 8568 1172
Fax: 020 8847 5338
E-mail: matt@thinkauto.com
Welcome to the home of Mocal oil coolers and components - Think Auto

Any further info I get from Matt I'll pass along. Maybe we can find out if people without an oil cooler are having the same over cool issues. I must admit this is the first car I have owned that came with an engine oil temp gauge, maybe we have all been running to cool at some point. Man, oil to hot , oil to cool, what is it with this car:rolleyes:

Apparently he does not know his product very well, or read the Mocal statement I posted above. I've installed 2 coolers with Mocal Thermostatic plates and they've both operated exactly as described in the Mocal statement (not this guys note).

As soon as you start the cold car you will feel heat begin to build at the cooler.

Updated the other thread.
http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...tallation.html

The Canton is supposed to be a complete bypass until 215. But at this point I take that with caution as who know's who they put in charge of answering emails.

Oh I believe you Modshack. When I installed mine and first started it, checking for leaks, it started to warm up even tho the temp gauge had not moved. I did not ask him how his unit worked, I was inquiring if they had or could make something with a 100% bypass. I was hoping that they could modify an inline t-stat, although now I am not sure I would believe him if he did!

Thanks Chris! Sorry I forgot who you were over there....So many freakin Oil threads it's impossible to keep up!.....:tup:

+1

Okay, I've been following this thread and I can't decide whether or not I need to be worried about this overcooling problem as it pertains to my individual situation, so I'd like some input/opinions from you guys. Let me explain my circumstances. I work from home full time. The only regular driving I do is to the gym 4 or 5 times a week at 5 in the morning. It takes me about 15 minutes to get there, and it takes about 13 minutes for my oil to get up to 180. So basically, I spend my whole drive getting my oil up to 180, then I shut down. Repeat when it's time to go home afterwards. Other than this, in the course of any given week I might make several quick runs to the grocery store or whatever, and the temps never get up to 180. Do I have anything to worry about? Is my engine at elevated risk for condensation and sludge formation due to what I've described above? Once in a while I'll need to go on an extended trip. Like last week I drove across town over to Forged to get my Uprev rom updated, which was a 45 mile trip each way on Interstates. Even then, my oil stayed mostly just a few degrees over 180. I think the max I saw was 210, and for only a brief period of time. FYI, I only got around to installing my cooler a few weeks ago, after seasonal temps already started to drop, so I have no summertime baseline. Any input would be appreciated.

Wow. I thought this thread died.

Update: The Mocal 140 degree sandwich plate just does not allow enough heat to get my oil temps up.

However, blocking the air flow (with tape or otherwise) really works. I have been playing with different solutions to cleanly cover the front grill. I really would like a solution that 1) goes on and off easily, and 2) looks good.

Unfortunately, the shape of the grill makes it difficult to fabricate a cover. And placing a metal plate over the cooler will probably require taking the front cover off. This is a real pain in the a$$ since (here in Northern Virginia) the temps are 40 degrees one day and 70 the next.

But don't risk engine damage by running around with 160 degree temps. If all else fails, just get out the painters tape and tape it up.

Put your vanity aside, your engine will thank you.

Which Setrab cooler? Your solution for this use may be to go with a smaller Core.....

The standard street-sized one from Stillen. It's their kit, actually, except I tossed their sandwich plate and used the Mocal 180. I actually just went out to drop off a prescription and got it up to 205. The difference is that it's 60 degrees out right now, and only about 40 at 5am when I go to the gym!

With the average temps around here in the morning being in the 40's I'm just getting to work when the temp hits 180. On the weekends I take it out for some exercise and try to get the temp to 220. I don't think the low temps day to day are a huge problem as long as you can get the temps up once in a while to burn off any water vapor that may have collected.

Actually on a side note, how much room would you say you have inbetween the Stillen Setrab core and the Gen3 intakes? Trying to determine if there is room for the larger Setrab 34-row and the intake.