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snap on metal shield is the best,clean way to do it. I was just giving him a cheep quick solution.

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Old 10-21-2009, 04:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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snap on metal shield is the best,clean way to do it. I was just giving him a cheep quick solution.
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I am debating how I want to go about this. How much with the temp rise with a mocal 180 degree sandwich adapter? 1 guy in this thread said he was running the same temps as me with the mocal and I don't even have a thermo plate...insinuating to me that they do nothing, and I would be better off building a metal blocking plate. What should I do?
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:37 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
If you read about how the thermostatic plate works, you're pumping oil to the cooler all the time. It's the level of bypass that varies with the thermostat, but there is always bleed to the cooler.
Hey I learned something! I always assumed they shut it off completely.

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Old 11-21-2009, 10:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I agree with the snap on covers. diesel pick ups have problems like this in the real cold and alot of people will just JB Weld little snap pieces and get a tailor shop or someone to "fab" up a piece of wool or windstopper (look them up) it should help and make it alot nicer looking.
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Old 11-21-2009, 12:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by import111 View Post
I am debating how I want to go about this. How much with the temp rise with a mocal 180 degree sandwich adapter? 1 guy in this thread said he was running the same temps as me with the mocal and I don't even have a thermo plate...insinuating to me that they do nothing, and I would be better off building a metal blocking plate. What should I do?
You are in AZ....Dunno how cold it gets there, but you may find if the temps dip below 50 degrees you might have a hard time bringing the oil up to temperature particularly at speed on the highway for any length of time.(this is where the Thermostat is advantageous)



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Old 11-21-2009, 12:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
You are in AZ....Dunno how cold it gets there, but you may find if the temps dip below 50 degrees you might have a hard time bringing the oil up to temperature particularly at speed on the highway for any length of time.(this is where the Thermostat is advantageous)

Had the oil cooler for w while now. Even if it is 70 degrees outside it takes the oil 30 minutes to reach 180 degrees. Generally the oil never gets above 170 degrees on my way to work in the mornings, and if it is really cool outside it will not pass 160 degrees.

I have the Stillen "race" oil cooler FYI.

I just want to know if shelling out $90 for the Mocal thermo plate will be a waste of $, if the temps wont change much or enough for it to be justified?
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Had the oil cooler for w while now. Even if it is 70 degrees outside it takes the oil 30 minutes to reach 180 degrees. Generally the oil never gets above 170 degrees on my way to work in the mornings, and if it is really cool outside it will not pass 160 degrees.

I have the Stillen "race" oil cooler FYI.

I just want to know if shelling out $90 for the Mocal thermo plate will be a waste of $, if the temps wont change much or enough for it to be justified?
Yeah...The race cooler is too big....I'm sure the thermostat would help. I brought up these same concerns when Stillen announced the "Big" cooler with no upgrade on the plate...This is why they advertise it for Race applications. The cooler needs to be sized correctly....Even more important without thermostatic control....as you've found..
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You could try one of these.
BAT, Inc. - MOCAL Oil Coolers
Remove the thermostat plate or leave it in, but with one of these you can solve your problem.
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yea, I brought it up with Stillen also and they said that in AZ I shouldn't have any issues getting the oil up to temp, even in the winter. Double edged sword cause if I got a regular sized oil cooler my temps would be too hot on the race track, lol.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:49 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Buddy of mine gave me a great idea yesterday. A valve you can flip closed or open Somewhere in line to the oil cooler. So when daily driving, you can have the valve closed and when at the track, just open the valve. Anything like this even exist?
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:12 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by import111 View Post
Buddy of mine gave me a great idea yesterday. A valve you can flip closed or open Somewhere in line to the oil cooler. So when daily driving, you can have the valve closed and when at the track, just open the valve. Anything like this even exist?
The problem, as I understand it, is that you want some circulation in the oil on a regular basis. You don't just want a few quarts sitting up there for track days, not mixing with the other oil. That's why the thermostatic plates still allow small amounts of circulation even at low temps.

I'm going to try the shield, personally.
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Old 11-22-2009, 03:40 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imag View Post
The problem, as I understand it, is that you want some circulation in the oil on a regular basis. You don't just want a few quarts sitting up there for track days, not mixing with the other oil. That's why the thermostatic plates still allow small amounts of circulation even at low temps.

I'm going to try the shield, personally.
Very good point. I didn't think of that.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:20 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Maybe my link was misleading. What I was suggesting was the inline mocal thermostat. The inline, keeps the valving to the oil cooler completely closed until the preset temp is reached. That means your oil will warm to operating temps before the oil cooler would even come in to play. With the t-stat installed close to the cooler, the most you would have would be maybe a quart trapped in the cooler. I almost went this route when I installed mine, but we only have maybe a half dozen days below freezing down here and it is not my daily driver. So it was cheaper to buy the sandwich with the t-stat in it, since I needed a sandwich plate anyway. It just seems to me that putting on and taking off a metal plate depending on the temps outside would grow tiresome.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Maybe my link was misleading. What I was suggesting was the inline mocal thermostat. The inline, keeps the valving to the oil cooler completely closed until the preset temp is reached. That means your oil will warm to operating temps before the oil cooler would even come in to play. .
We undestood the link...The problem is, those outboard thermstats operate just like the Thermostatic plates and bleed oil to the coolr all the time as I described earlier. Digging a little further into BAT's website I found this description for the outboard types:

Quote:
Cold oil enters the
thermostat and is bypassed through the center of the
unit returning to engine (figure 1). During warm-up
the thermostat never closes off oil flow to the cooler,
rather, it offers a less restrictive path for the oil to flow*
allowing the cooler to acclimate to system
temperature. As oil warms to 180 degrees (200 in high
temp versions) the operating "waxstat" closes the
bypass permitting full flow to cooler (figure 2).
*percentage of oil bypass can vary up to the point
where the bypass is closed and full flow to the cooler
Flow diagrams on page 3 at the link: http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.p...t1=Get+Pricing

Oh well...Back to the drawing board!...
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Last edited by Modshack; 11-22-2009 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:36 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Oops. I stand corrected. Of course now that I see it won't work, I must find a solution(even tho I don't have that problem). It's a personal thing!!!
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