Wow. I thought this thread died.

Update: The Mocal 140 degree sandwich plate just does not allow enough heat to get my oil temps up.

However, blocking the air flow (with tape or otherwise) really works. I have been playing with different solutions to cleanly cover the front grill. I really would like a solution that 1) goes on and off easily, and 2) looks good.

Unfortunately, the shape of the grill makes it difficult to fabricate a cover. And placing a metal plate over the cooler will probably require taking the front cover off. This is a real pain in the a$$ since (here in Northern Virginia) the temps are 40 degrees one day and 70 the next.

But don't risk engine damage by running around with 160 degree temps. If all else fails, just get out the painters tape and tape it up.

Put your vanity aside, your engine will thank you.

Which Setrab cooler? Your solution for this use may be to go with a smaller Core.....

The standard street-sized one from Stillen. It's their kit, actually, except I tossed their sandwich plate and used the Mocal 180. I actually just went out to drop off a prescription and got it up to 205. The difference is that it's 60 degrees out right now, and only about 40 at 5am when I go to the gym!

With the average temps around here in the morning being in the 40's I'm just getting to work when the temp hits 180. On the weekends I take it out for some exercise and try to get the temp to 220. I don't think the low temps day to day are a huge problem as long as you can get the temps up once in a while to burn off any water vapor that may have collected.

Actually on a side note, how much room would you say you have inbetween the Stillen Setrab core and the Gen3 intakes? Trying to determine if there is room for the larger Setrab 34-row and the intake.

Okay, see this pic:
http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...ilter-view.jpg

The top of my core sits right below the silver tow hook loop thingy. That should give you an idea.

:iagree:

Not a conflict IMO..

The 34-row will come up to just below the front crash bar, so looks like it should just fit.

+rep :tup:

Hmm...34-row? Have you taken a look at MightBobo's DIY on the 25-row? http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...il-cooler.html
I mention this because he discovered the 25-row was actually too big and required some cutting on one of the corners! (My street-version is only 19-row.)

This pic is from his thread:
http://images52.fotki.com/v642/photo...MG_0574-vi.jpg

I think it was because of how Stillen wanted you to mount it. The Nissan Motorsport kit is a 34-row Setrab and mounts directly to the plastic brace at the bottom with a right angle bracket. If set back at the correct distance it shouldn't have that problem.

Here's a picture of one being installed (by Z1Motorsport).
http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...lled.sized.jpg

Wow. That thing is huge! Now that I see it, I understand why you were worried about the G3s, lol. I think it'll fit. It'll be tight, but it'll fit (hopefully).

I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates.

I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked.

Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution?

gaffers tape from permacel and pro gaffer

Sorry... I had to.

I actually may end up doing just that. I have a black car, and I'm not that image conscious. If I just have to tape it up when I leave the track once a month, it's not a big deal...

Where is the oil temp sensor on our cars located?
The reason I ask is, I wonder if the thermostat's are starting to open to soon because they are in direct contact with the block? Possible?

I also saw that Jagg Oil Coolers makes a manual bypass ($65 Model 4000). Install it in the lines up front, reach into the grill to turn it on or off 100% bypass. Drawback is no AN fittings. Bummer.

http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...2-p1000856.jpg

See that gold/brass looking piece in the picture? That's the oil temp sensor.

Here's the exploded view from the service manual:
http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...9-102739AM.jpg

As the Mocal thermostat is mechanical this doesn't seem likely given the rate of oil flow through it.

Yep, after seeing the location of the sensor I understand. My thought was, having a remote inline thermostat, further from the block, may restrict the flow for longer than the t-stat sitting on the side of the block. But the temp sensor is right next to the sandwich plate ,so the reading should be very close to what the thermostat is also seeing. Oh well....next

The Mocal adapter appears to have a spring in it. Can you shim the spring or shorten the spring to change the temperature setting? I'd like to see what is inside. The other brand of sandwich adapters(perma-cool,hayden,transdapt,earls,derale and canton) don't seem to have a way to get inside.

Probably not a good idea. Most performance shop only carry the 180 degree model, but a 203 degree version is available from the distributor..

Keep in mind, either will constantly bleed oil to the cooler as discussed earlier:


http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.p...t1=Get+Pricing

My Core size (similar to the Stillen) and 180 stat result in temps from 180 to 210 under most all conditions. I get very slight overcooling (175) on a cool day, cruising at speed. If I lived in a colder envoirnment and didn't track the car I think I might consider a smaller core and the 203 degree plate. This would take the edge off the temps at the high end in the summer, but not overcool in the winter...Just a thought..

OK! Here we go. This took all of 15 minutes to cut and lay-out and should take no more than 10 minutes to install or remove....
Cost should range from $0 to a few bucks for the metal.

Lets start:

First, remove the plastic shroud between the bumper and the radiator (pop out the push rivets...5 minutes). You can then see and reach your cooler:

http://images52.fotki.com/v729/photo...MG_2216-vi.jpg

http://images52.fotki.com/v726/photo...MG_2212-vi.jpg

Now, depending on how much blockage you desire cut a piece of sheet metal to cover X amount of inches of the cooler. This will vary depending on your cooler size and whether or not you have fittings on the top that need to be compensated for. I sized mine to cover about 1/3rd of my 24 row cooler, essentially turning it into a 16 row. I used some flashing I had laying around for the experiment, but I think doing it in a sturdier aluminum would be better:

http://images54.fotki.com/v556/photo...MG_2209-vi.jpg

Bend into a "U" shape on a Bending brake if you have it, or you could just bend it over a 2x4. Most coolers are 1.5" thick:

http://images54.fotki.com/v563/photo...MG_2210-vi.jpg

Now just reach down and slip it over your cooler. You could even put a handle on the top to make this easier. Adjust your bends so it hugs the cooler to stay in place. About 1/3rd of the 24 row cooler is blocked here:

http://images28.fotki.com/v977/photo...MG_2213-vi.jpg

From the front. I think you'd want to stealth it with a little black paint, but this is just for proof of concept. Snap your shroud back into place and you're done until next summer.
(oh yeah, clean off the bugs while you're in there!)

http://images52.fotki.com/v728/photo...MG_2214-vi.jpg

No driving on this yet but I will over the weekend (supposed to be cool here) to see the results. I suspect it will work just ducky!

Final with Stealth paint job now in winter mode...:

http://images53.fotki.com/v420/photo...MG_2217-vi.jpg

Nice simple design, piece of cake to make. Might be a little more difficult to put in place if you have the fittings on the top but as long as you take that into account when making it I don't think there will be a problem.

Nice work!

Thanks! Simple and easy. I'll do some drive impressions and temp observations tomorrow!

my friend has a nascar craftsman truck oil cooler on his 350. it now holds 11 qts, and he says he just tapes it up in winter. but then again, we are in the south.

Call me what you want, but why are temps below 180 degrees bad?? Sorry, don't have as much tech. know how as some of the others on this threat!

Oil below 180 degrees may not burn off moisture and contaminants that accumulate..

I have designed and installed a fiberglass grill cover which blocks about 80% of the air flow over the cooler. Not nearly as pretty as ModShack's but effective.

Pictures and instructions to come when I get back into the office tomorrow.

Modshack strikes again

I wrapped a piece of cardboard with black electrical tape and zip tied it to the front of my Stillen Race oil cooler today. I have not driven it yet but I will report if and how it changes the oil temps.

Just drove around for a while. 80% of the oil cooler is covered and the temps changed a lot. Wasn't as cool as it has been tonight though so that might have a little to do with it, but temps still got higher faster than since I have had the oil cooler installed. Got up to 220 degrees tonight. As long as the electrical tape doesn't melt on the oil cooler, this will be my solution to over cooling on the street.

C'mon! Cardboard and electrical tape? Seems a bit cheezy IMO. I laid out an easy 15 minute mod for you above....
The car deserves something a bit classier....Plus I don't think Your fix will fare well at 220 degrees..

Today's drive.....Cool 50 degree weather. On the cooler, 10 rows covered, 14 exposed. Temps ranged from 185-190 cruising and at speed to 200 around town. This is about 15 degrees higher than what I would have expected with the full cooler exposure..I'll probably leave it like this for awhile and continue observations. Sunday will be a 70 degree day so we'll see how this operates in slightly warmer temps..

Fiberglass Cover
 

This mod makes sense for all of us with our hoses and connections blocking the top of our coolers.

1) I taped of the front of the grill with painters tape and newspaper to block over spray. The smoother you tape the grill the better your finished product will look. Also, make sure you cover the area behind the license plate bracket as this will be your primary mounting surface.

2) The materials I used were fiberglass cloth and 3M high strength adhesive available at your local auto parts store.

3) I sprayed the adhesive on the tape and began layering the fiberglass cloth.

4) Make sure to spray the adhesive on first and let it get tacky before layering it on the cover.

5) After layering around three or four layers of cloth I let it dry.

6) Next I spray painted the cover with a heavy coat of flat black paint. The paint acts as the binding agent on the front of the cover.

7) When the paint dried I carefully peeled the fiberglass cover off the grill. Use a scissor to clean up the edges and a hair clipper to smooth out the fiberglass hairs on the front of the cover.

8) Voila! A form fitting and less noticeable front grill cover.

9) Attach it using a hole in line with the license plate bracket and clips available from your auto parts store.

And I can confirm that this method is effective.

Jeebus ResIpsa... You've taken a simple problem and fabricated a very complicated solution..You're not in management are you??.
Work for the Government??.......:-)

Worse, I'm a lawyer...:D

LOL....:tup:

:tup:

I checked the oil temp tonight. It was around 55 degrees. The oil temp was around high 160s to low 170s even driving around 65 mph. After 20 minutes of driving and coming home the temp finally went to 180. Temp only increased during city type driving with late shifting. Do I need to throw on some blue painters tape?

How much blue tape should I put on it?