S.C. high rpm's
 

Just wondering, Would a supercharger be ok if you were to have a redline close to 9,000 rpms

These cars have oiling problems at high rpms, what are you going to do about that?

Dry sump would be needed forsure and even then I don't think you will be able to spin it up to 9k safely.

I would think it would be cheaper and safer to just buy a kit that offers the HP you want with a normal redline.

Also have to remember that as you increase the engine RPM you are spinning the SC unit higher/faster.
I know with GTMs kit that at around 7500 RPM (factory set) you are at the max limit of spinning most rotrex units, especially once you drop below the 90mm pulley size. So pushing the engine RPM up will put you out of spec for the SC and overspinning gives you no benefit other than killing the SC faster.

This is strictly speaking for the rotrex units, stillen's kit (vortech) might different but I imagine it has limitations as well but it might have a higher threshold.

Yes I would have a dry sump if I were to rev that high. I got the answer I was looking for about the sc being out of spec. I'm going back and forth about boost or buying a dry sump and going for big power NA.

What's with this recent craze for high red-lines?

Wanting to see how far the VQ motor can be pushed, we all know it can handling boost like a king. For people wanting to keep it NA and make decent power has been my quest. Just trying to way out the options on spending 6K on a dry sump or 6K on a SC kit

Are you going to be at sebring april 12?

Who is there April 12th? As of now I plan to be there March 28th (Chin), May 2nd & 3rd(NASA),June 21st & 22nd (NASA), August 22nd (PDG) and October 3rd & 4th(NASA) this year but would love to add more. I'm going to Homestead tomorrow night.

April 12th is chin motorsports. I won't be running my car as it isn't nearly set up to be ran on the track, my buddy is taking his Z06 vette and i'll be riding with him. I'd like to check out your set up.

I've already paid for the May NASA event so that is probably to close together for me. If you go to any other events with him let me know, if I'm at the track I will gladly take you out in the car.

cheers!

I was close to 8000 rpm .... I was.......


This was one of the problems that made me for almost 6 months pass without my "Z" :icon08:

Looking specifically at the supercharger, sizing the pulley appropriately is your best bet. When I had the GTM Twin SC kit, those superchargers had plenty of room to spin higher. I was on the 92mm pulley, the lowest was 84mm, and the max impeller speed is 100,000rpm. If you are spinning too fast, you can always reduce the crank pulley size.

If you take engine rpm x crank diameter x supercharger ratio divided by the supercharger pulley diameter, this will tell you the max impeller speed.

Example: max impeller speed for specs below are 95931rpm.
7500rpm engine
124mm crank pulley
1:9.49 crank ratio
92mm SC pulley

I know right, if you want high revs you need lower displacement. You can do it but it's like you can make a van a fast car but why not just get a fast car?

http://img01.lachschon.de/images/121...o_1-medium.jpg

Thanks for the helpful information, BY how did you like the TSC kit

I loved it. I had a couple pulleys go bad, but there is some info on the forum about how to remedy it. Im sure it can reach 650whp with a built motor. The superchargers were great. My only other beef with the kit itself is the intake pipe gets reduced to snake around the front bumper area.

IS there anyway you could fabricate that intake tube

Below iare pics. You can see, it would take some effort to refab the tube, just because it would require relocating other things like the brake fluid reservoir, and possibly hacking the car a bit of fit larger tubes.

http://www.the370z.com/members/ss_fi...rotrex-c30.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/ss_fi...rotrex-c30.jpg

Okay, I'll be the asshole to say it:

Unless you are prepared for the Z to become your "project car" (i.e., sometimes down for a while, random mysterious problem crops up, will need to datalog and or tune at times on your own or are prepared to learn how to do so, willing/able to work on your car at times), I would just hold off at see what 2016 promises for a new Z, which, with a tiny bit of luck, will be OEM boosted.

Modifying an OEM FI car is WAAAAAAAAAAAY less misery (labor of love?) than turning a NA car into a FI car.

Yes, lots of folks have boosted their Z, and it seems that most have done so with minimal hassle.

Then there's the many horror stories and the folks who have a 2nd car to tool around in, making it less of a burden to turn the DD into an experimental test car.

FI on a Z demands deep pockets (relative to, say, an OEM boosted car or a 4-banger), and carries all the usual risks and issues (as well as the cravings for MORE MORE MORE POWER -- cocaine may be a hell of a drug, but so is WHP), plus a few extra ones given that its NOT an OEM FI car.

That said, if you have experience with turning NA cars into FI cars, deep pockets, a second car, etc ect, by all means, go for it.

If not, given that a TT Z35 is looking less and less like fantasy as more reports surface, I'd seriously consider NOT doing this.

I've been down this road. I learned a lot (really, everything I know) about cars, FI, and tuning from traversing that road, and I don't regret it.

That said, its hard to imagine anyone on here with similar experiences would argue with anything I just noted...

Either way, good luck :tup:

"cocaine is one hell of a drugs and so is WHP!! haha that **** cracked up me!!. Gotta pay to play i guess

Da*n~

:tup:

Don't get me wrong; I don't mean to be discouraging.

If you are an old pro / have money to burn / a second car / any 2 of those three, go for it.

If not, but you are determined to play with boost, keep things as simple as possible to start out -- dry sumps and over-driven blowers... that's a more advanced project with far higher costs, more tuning, more experimentation, and greater potential for things to go wrong.

It looked like you might have been thinking along the "experimental test car" lines (which I certainly understand and respect!), but again, unless you can make a solid claim to at leas two on the above list, as a fellow car guy and madman, I strongly advise you to either keep it NA or go with a fairly modest and reliable bolt-on kit at the most and see where you are from there, rather than try for a wild and high revving build, where you may be sailing a lot in fairly uncharted (and rocky) water...

I have a second car and have time for more R&D with these car for people who have deeper pockets than me. I going back and fourth about S/C the car or building a high revving N/A. I like the keep it Na for the simplicity, but have it SC for power. I like to say i just don't jump off the deep end and hope for the best, I'll do my research when it comes to engine builders and tuners so i only have to do this once. Also i'll have more than enough money if my motor and anything blows in the process. That's why i'm asking alot of question and taking in any feedback so this helps me in building the car that i want. This is a long term project, I have no kids, not in prison (marriage), I live the bachelor lifestyle.