AMS Adjustable Short Throw Shifter available @ Z1 Motorsports
 

Now available at Z1 Motorsports is the NEW AMS Adjustable Short Throw Shifter.

The AMS Adjustable short shifter is easy to install and is manufactured to OEM specs and tolerances to allow for smooth and easy operation. The shifter is designed with four adjustable positions that shorten or lengthen the travel distance between shifts and can be adjusted with ease to suit the driver.

To aid in engagement of the Reverse Gear, Z1 recommends adding some kind of lubricant (i.e, assembly lubricant, etc) to the inner perimeter of the shifter bracket.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...rowShifter.jpg

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...talledDOWN.jpg

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...nstalledUP.jpg

Z1 stocks all AMS Products and has them ready to ship the same day!

The AMS Shifter can be found on our website here:

AMS 370Z Adjustable Short Throw Shifter

whats the % rate of reduced throw?

Anyone here on the forums gone one of these installed? Does it come with its own mounting plate, bushings, etc?

Is the installation a PITA like the B&M shifter?

Example: grinding down a portion of the stock mounting plate to allow reverse gear to synchronize; any grinding required?

Also, buying serrated lock nuts were recommended to avoid OEM mounting plate mounted above the supplied blue B&M plate from shifting around after use: which overtime can prevent the Reverse Lockout feature to be used

Just to let you know... this piece is a direct replacement unit. You do not have to make ANY modifications to the car whatsoever. You will reuse all OEM hardware. I recommend some sort of loctite no matter what. A little loctite never hurt anything, as long as you use it cautiously.

As for the hardware, it does come with its own shifter bushings and collar. You really just remove the 7 10mm bolts, 1 12mm on the shifter and that it. The only challange I have come across when installing this shifter is putting the rubber liner under the shifter plate back neatly under the carpet and removing the factory shift knob.

Thanks for the reply. That's good to know that it's pretty much OEM fitment and no grinding required.

I'm about ready to pull the trigger and purchase this kit, however, I do have one last question:

I looked up the AMS website and they don't show the 370z short shifter on their website. Is this short shifter specifically tailored for the 370z or does it just happen to fit our car?

I bring this up because I'm frankly disappointed with B&M. The short shift kit they have seems like no actual R&D was involved and was a port from the 350Z kit. I don't like paying about $200 just to do more custom work (grinding the mounting plate and buying serrated lock nuts) with a ported package from a previous generation.

So far this looks like a solid, practically OEM replacement with adjustable options and it comes with bushings. Thanks in advance.

+100

What is the reduction %?

Thanks.

I got mine in today.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...DSC01671-1.jpg

Talked with Dustin over at Z1 Motorsports and he's sending me some washers/spacers so that the Shift knob and shift boot sit flush w/out gaps. I'll updated pics of that later when I get them.

For now, if you've already purchased one, you need to remove the 2 rubber O-rings around the center plastic piece so that engaging in reverse gear will be smooth. Here's a pic:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01672.jpg

I'll update post with pics + impressions.

nice, look forward to your install and impressions :tup:

Preparing for the install:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01675.jpg
:happydance:

Hopefully I'll have time next week to do it

good stuff for bettering stuff :tup:

oh i want to see the results of this

Sorry for the delay in response everyone. I have been waiting on getting my hands on a stock 370Z so I can measure the stock throw specs. Using a reference point in the car, I have found that the throw of the stock shifter is roughly 3". With the AMS Short Throw installed at its shortest setting, the throw is reduced to 2".

This reduction equates to about a 33% reduction in shifter throw.

So the final answer for $1,000,000 is.......

33%

Just to clarify what is going on here with dcrew1x's shifter, we have found that when using the stock shifter knob, the boot does not sit as flush up against the bottom of the shift knob. We are providing these washers to ensure that the boot does in fact fit properly.

As for the O-rings, we have discovered that the O-rings tend to bind, causing issues when attempting to engage the reverse gear. With that we ship all 370Z AMS Shifters with these corrections. Unfortunately in dcrew1x's case one got by us and I am in the process of taking care of the matter now.

No biggy. Those O-rings are easy to take off. Just get a flat tip. Can't wait for the washers to do the install :tup:

Got my washers in today; Thanks Dustin! :tup:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01690.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01691.jpg

Here they are on the shifter:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01692.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01693.jpg

I'm planning on installing it tomorrow.

Sweet!

give us a good DIY thread :tup:

:iagree: with DIY! Excited to see the final result! :excited:

Can't wait to hear the review. Been waiting for a direct replacement with no modifications needed.

Same here, even though I have the B&M already, the rattle is a bother. My only concern is it will feel just like the stock shifter which is one reason I wanted a different shifter.

First off, I used most of The Hack's DIY http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-kit-370z.html
to do the install and I apologize for my shitty camera as some of the pic's are a little bright or out of focus

Tools required:

Socket wrench and sockets (10mm socket in particular)
Assembly Lubricant
Loctite (not required but if you're conscious about potnential shift knob movement over time, then go ahead and dab some on; it's pretty cheap to purchase anyway)
Phillips head screwdriver


I rented a lift which was paid by the hour, so I couldn't take as many pictures as I'd wanted and I was in a hurry to get the shifter installed.

Here are some before shots:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01695.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01694.jpg

For the most part you can follow The Hack's install procedures.

Lift up on the center leather console and unplug the SRM module
*Referencing The Hack's pics*

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/interior.jpg

Unplug SRM module

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01701.jpg

Remove these screws to take off the side panels of the center console

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01696.jpg

Remove the 10mm bolts to the rear of the console. I forgot to take pictures of this but it's pretty easy to access; Simply move the seats forward and the 10mm bolts are in plain view and easy to access.

Once you have the center console loose, you can gain access to unscrew the rear 10 mm bolts holding the plastic shift plate in place. There are 4 10mm bolts total, and the 2 in front are easy to reach w/out moving around the center console; the rear requires you to loosen the center console as The Hack mentions.
*referencing The Hack's Picture*

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...alum_plate.jpg

Once you can see the big plastic plate, remember the arrow is pointed towards your stereo

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01697.jpg

Here's a shot of the 5 pointed metal shifter plate:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01698.jpg

Shot of the layers of shift boots

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01699.jpg

When you are unscrewing the 3 10mm bolts on the 5 point plate, remember there is a spring underneath so hold onto the plate as you are unscrewing the last screw

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01700.jpg

Underneath the car, here is a shot of the rubber boot that covers the shift linkage to the shifter (you can easily get it out of the way; no clips or anything attached)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00015.jpg

Here's some shots of the rubber boot moved to the side

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00016.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00019.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00020.jpg

Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage, you can take the assembly and use a vise or a c clamp. I ended up using a vise since it was available. But a C clamp will also suffice.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00021.jpg

I tried to stick the bottom end of the shifter on the vise and twist the shift knob by hand; needless to say it was a fruitless effort and I ended up wrapping the shift knob with a towel and put the shift knob end on the vise and twisted the shifter using a Phillips screwdriver as leverage through the hole in the shifter.

*Referencing The Hack's DIY for a picture for an exmaple*
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...nobremoval.jpg

Here are some shots of the unscathed shift knob (it's pretty easy to loosen the shift knob on a vice w/out scuffing up or damaging your shift knob)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00022.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00023.jpg

Here is a comparison shot of the stock and AMS shifters:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00024.jpg

Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage underneath the car, you can go ahead and slide out all the layers of boots including the shifter out of the console and replace with the new AMS shifter.

At this point, use some assembly lubricant and lube up the shift joints on the big white plastic cushion. Go ahead and align the shifter in place and put the 5 point plate on top. Remember to keep the shifter aligned so that the little knob on one side is pointed "right" as this is your Reverse lockout feature. The "knob" is located above the white plastic cushion and below the bulky black portion:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00024.jpg

Once you have the AMS shifter in place, go ahead and screw in the 3 10mm bolts for the 5 point plate. Do not tighten bolts at this time yet but just keep them in; Go back underneath the vehicle and screw on the bolt connecting the shifter to the shift linkage. Once completed, shift through each gear making sure every shift is unobstructed and has free movement.

Put all the layers of boots back in place in reverse order. I'd recommend aligning the boots together then putting the screws in, and THEN putting it all together to align with the holes on the center console. Makes installing/aligning the boots that much easier.;)

Remember to re-connect the SRM module and re-clip any clips from the console pieces as necessary.

Go ahead and put a little dab of loctite on the shifter to avoid shift knob movement;*I would suggest screwing in your shift knob first to ensure that the shift knob and shift boot align properly first*

Finally, some installed shots (Didn't have time to clean up, and you may want to use a towel around your work area to avoid scratching up your interior console pieces like I ended up doing unintentionally :eek:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01702.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01703.jpg

Impressions:

1. Shift knob is exactly as Dustin said: about 33% shorter throw. It's a good solid feel with no vibration.

2. I went on the highway to see if there was any high rpm vibration. No difference in vibration as the OEM shifter; In this case I'm assuming it's a huge difference compared to the B&M. (I don't have any experience with the B&M) And the throws were smooth.

3. Definitely looks a lot better than before and everything sits flush:p

4. No grinding down of a separate plate on top of the OEM 5 point plate required. All original OEM bolts and plates are used with this installation minimizing the need for additional material (IE serrated lock nuts to keep B&M blue plate in place with the OEM 5 point plate)

5. Cheaper than B&M kit :p

Overall installation difficulty 1-5; 1 being super easy and 5 being super hard, I'd rate this installation as a 2.

Keep in mind I had access to a lift and all the tools necessary.

Good luck all and have fun.

Thank you for that awesome review! and good pics too :tup:

you should start a new thread to get maximum exposure :tiphat:

Thanks for the write up.


On a separate note, does anyone know how much the B&M shifter reduces shift throw? Also is the same AMS company that is really big with the Evos?

my one question though...

on the 5 point metal plate, how difficult was it to remove? i was going to replace my shifter when i did my exhaust but i couldnt get the plate out....is it because of the knee pads needing to be removed?

B&M reduces it about the same 3" stock and B&M is ~2".

b&m = 33%

and AMS use to do a lot of stuff for the 300z's too

Rog, well if this is the AMS company I think it is then this kit might be just as good as the B&M for less money with no rattling.. that might be a pretty sweet deal!

Oh ok cool, good to know! :)

i was thinking the same...im going to try my 25 dollar knock off first to see if it rattles like the b&m...

It was very easy to remove. Just unscrew the 3 10mm bolts.

Taking out the Knee pads from the center console and loosening the center console makes this installation a LOT easier.

In fact, I'm pretty sure I had to loosen up the whole console to make wiggle room to take out the layers of shift boots from the console.

ya, the wiggle room was nill and thats what had me saying not going to mess with it this time, i had spent 4 hours on the lift so i decided to forgo the attempt till a later time

dcrew1x...I m glad to hear you got the shifter installed and a very good write up too! Definitly report back from time to time with your findings and opinions. You did ALOT of work removing the entire shifter assembly from the chassis. Just for clarification, you can do it the install by just by just removing the interior console piece and by having access from the underside of the car.

The AMS company that makes this shifter is the one that also makes alot of Z33 and Z32 parts. They are based out of Canada and produce some very nice, affordable products. And for the record, since I get asked this from time to time. This AMS is not related to the AMS up north that deals with the EVO's and Time Attack cars you see in the magazines.

cool...i met someone with a 300zx when i was installing my exhaust and he said he had an AMS shifter in his too...

I may get this shifter and get rid of my other one, i would like to have the adjustability factor.

Is the reverse lockout still working without the need for modification/spare parts?

Also, how is the gear engagement? Is it a nice, positive, and firm engagement or is it rather stock like? How do you adjust the height?

Lastly, is there any sort of play in the lever when in gear, or is it solid with no wiggling?

Thanks for the help!

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-install.html

I wrote up a DIY/review/impressions. Check it out.

Reverse lockout still works. No modification necessary unlike the B&M kit which adds a separate mounting plate and requires grinding of the OEM plate.

Gear engagement is smooth. Shorter throw makes for a quicker shift. No play.

How is the ams short shifter holding up?

As good as day 1

We have not had any issues with the one in our shop car whatsoever. The only real issue I have heard about it people accidentally ripping the rubber dust boot either when taking apart their Z or when re-assembling.

how do you adjust the height? do you have to take it all apart again?

Not at all!

You can adjust the height of the shifter with the car fully reassembled. The easiest way I can explain how to adjust the shifter is the following:

(I am Right Handed...so the placement of my hands are probably opposite for a Left Handed Person)

Sitting in the Driver's seat. Use your left hand and grab the shifter. Use your right hand and grab the shift boot. Beneath the boot, you will feel the adjustment collar. Pulling the collar up, you can then adjust the shifter's height by pulling or pushing the shifter up or down with your left hand.

It will take a little playing with to fully grasp the concept, but once you actually try it with it installed. You will be able to do it on the fly.

...and for some reason. If you cannot do it with the shift boot and shifter installed. You can pop shift boot panel off and reach underneath it to release the collar.

Something else I should forewarn you...and so can anyone else who has removed the factory shifter....IT WILL BE A PAIN! It is possible to remove the shifter without damaging. You dont need pipe wrenches or any of that garbage. It will take muscle and patience.

Give me a call if you have any questions as to the installation.