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RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke

Originally Posted by solidus Wanna say thanks to Ryan for the awesome customer service, but more importantly issue a warning thats been said before but based on my experience needs

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Old 05-17-2016, 02:29 PM   #466 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by solidus View Post
Wanna say thanks to Ryan for the awesome customer service, but more importantly issue a warning thats been said before but based on my experience needs to be said on every page for new buyers. IF.....you upgrade your clutch after your install of the RJM pedal either go in yourself and put it to zero before the install OR make damned sure the installer puts it back to zero before the install. The result of not doing this in my case was drag developing on the clutch due to the installers assuming the pedal is OEM and you paying for an extra hour due to the headache they'll develop trying to bleed the CSC.
solidus, You're very welcome and I'm glad you were able to get things sorted out. The notice about clutch bleeding is *bold highlighted* in italics on the first page of the install guide but I will work harder to make sure new customers are aware of this important piece of information when having a new clutch installed.

Best Regards,
Ryan Morgan - Owner
RJM Performance Inc.
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:01 PM   #467 (permalink)
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I still have several units in stock and ready to go for shipment before the long weekend. Visit 370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies - RJM Performance.com to purchase directly.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:06 AM   #468 (permalink)
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Bump heading into the weekend! I currently have just Qty (5) of the latest RJM Rev 3.1 AFP Pedal setups for 370Z/G37 left in stock today. The nice weather is finally here and you owe it to yourself to experience how your Z SHOULD have felt from the factory. It'll completely transform your Z driving experience!

Once these remaining units are sold out it'll be a 2-3 week wait for new stock. Grab one before they're gone.
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:10 PM   #469 (permalink)
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Stock is getting low. Down to just 3 Units Left Tonight.
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:39 PM   #470 (permalink)
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I have a question. It seems that the general consensus with the OEM clutch is to not depress the pedal all the way down in order to preserve the life of the CSC. With that said, should I exercise the same caution with the RJM pedal or is it ok to fully depress the clutch with this unit? I
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:56 PM   #471 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by littlejuanito View Post
I have a question. It seems that the general consensus with the OEM clutch is to not depress the pedal all the way down in order to preserve the life of the CSC. With that said, should I exercise the same caution with the RJM pedal or is it ok to fully depress the clutch with this unit? I
Absolutely no need for caution with this pedal assembly to preserve CSC life. As the AFP setting increases the stroke at the master cylinder and in turn the CSC is being decreased proportionately. So even at full stroke on the RJM pedal you'll always be getting something less than full CSC stroke and preserving it's useful lifespan anytime the AFP is setup over the 0% mark(same as stock) with most running an AFP in the 60-90% range.

That's not to say you need to do a full stroke when shifting though as I typically shift at something less than full stroke 99% of the time and only fully press the clutch when starting from a stop or when starting up. Otherwise just do what works and feels natural without any worry for the CSC.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:03 PM   #472 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM View Post
Absolutely no need for caution with this pedal assembly to preserve CSC life. As the AFP setting increases the stroke at the master cylinder and in turn the CSC is being decreased proportionately. So even at full stroke on the RJM pedal you'll always be getting something less than full CSC stroke and preserving it's useful lifespan anytime the AFP is setup over the 0% mark(same as stock) with most running an AFP in the 60-90% range.

That's not to say you need to do a full stroke when shifting though as I typically shift at something less than full stroke 99% of the time and only fully press the clutch when starting from a stop or when starting up. Otherwise just do what works and feels natural without any worry for the CSC.
Great! Thanks Ryan. For some reason, my shifts are smoother when I depress the clutch all the way as opposed to doing a shorter stroke.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:21 PM   #473 (permalink)
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Hey Ryan,

So I just bought the pedal assembly kit and the clevis, however I dont have the tools to install it and dont know anything about changing these things and am thinking of sending it to the Nissan dealership near me. Anything I should let them know of before in terms of setting the correct AFP %? I want to pay as little as possible in labor/installation fees and just want to let them know what to expect so they dont spend too much time reading the instructions
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:39 PM   #474 (permalink)
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Hey Ryan,

So I just bought the pedal assembly kit and the clevis, however I dont have the tools to install it and dont know anything about changing these things and am thinking of sending it to the Nissan dealership near me. Anything I should let them know of before in terms of setting the correct AFP %? I want to pay as little as possible in labor/installation fees and just want to let them know what to expect so they dont spend too much time reading the instructions
Hi WELL ZED,
The dealership is probably the last people I'd trust to do a quality install for cheap, especially on aftermarket parts. I would highly recommend any small local shop, a local performance tuning shop or even a handy friend to help you for a case of beer over taking it to the dealership. As for what to tell them the AFP comes pre-set to the initial starting position on the latest Rev3.1 version so they shouldn't need to do anything with that for basic install. Otherwise following the installation guide is 110% recommended for the shop or dealership because I've heard of far too many shops who thought they knew everything and threw the instructions away only to send the customer home with a poorly installed unit with lots of issues for me to sort out with the customer afterwards.
I hope that helps point you in the right direction and to avoid the pitfalls I've seen others fall into with some shops.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:11 PM   #475 (permalink)
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Thanks for the heads-up, Ryan. Ill probably find a tuning shop in my area, most of my friends are car noobs anyway
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Old 06-17-2016, 04:33 PM   #476 (permalink)
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The RJM webstore is currently accepting pre-orders towards the next batch of RJM Rev 3.1 Pedal Assemblies to begin shipping June 29th. Each customers order is hand fabricated, painted, assembled and packaged for shipment in the order in which they are received.

There are currently just Qty *15* Units remaining available for pre-order towards the next batch tonight. So get your orders into the build queue early for the quickest fabrication and shipping once production resumes.


Once all pre-ordered units are shipped out any left over units will become available for regular purchase first week of July.

Have a Great Father's Day Weekend Everyone!

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Old 06-18-2016, 06:31 PM   #477 (permalink)
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So can I adjust pedal height without having to adjust anything else by loosening and tightening those 3 bolts holding the arm?

Also I'd like to adjust the AFP setting maybe half a tooth or a tiny bit more but a little confused with resetting the Upper Switch Gap, I don't want to cause the clutch to fail ... Is it as simple as pushing the pedal slightly and tightening the Upper Switch mount locking bolt?

Also if just adjusting the AFP slightly it doesn't look like adjusting the clutch rod angle will be necessary but is it necessary to do steps 29-30?


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Old 06-18-2016, 08:29 PM   #478 (permalink)
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So can I adjust pedal height without having to adjust anything else by loosening and tightening those 3 bolts holding the arm?

Also I'd like to adjust the AFP setting maybe half a tooth or a tiny bit more but a little confused with resetting the Upper Switch Gap, I don't want to cause the clutch to fail ... Is it as simple as pushing the pedal slightly and tightening the Upper Switch mount locking bolt?

Also if just adjusting the AFP slightly it doesn't look like adjusting the clutch rod angle will be necessary but is it necessary to do steps 29-30?


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Hi Swindler,
Yes, you can simply loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper and lower arm halves to alter the overall pedal height without changing anything else in the setup.
To adjust the AFP only a little bit as you say (about a tooth in either direction) you should be fine as long as you setup the clutch rod angle carefully to begin with. If it's already pushing at an off angle then moving a full tooth in the opposite direction might put it off angle quite a bit. The best thing to tell you is make the change and just use your best judgement. If it still appears to be pushing straight in/out after the change then no worries. If it's off you'll need to do a clutch rod angle adjustment procedure as well.

For the upper switch it is just that simple. Loosen the switch lock bolt to where you can push the mount up/down with a little force. Push the pedal down just slightly to take-up any linkage slack, push the mount down so the switch meets the rubber bumper and retighten the bolt to lock the adjustment. It took longer to type that then it does to actually do it.

Hope that helps!
Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:36 PM   #479 (permalink)
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Also, neither getting the switch gap wrong or the clutch rod alignment wrong will cause ANY damage to your clutch. The switch gap wrong at best your cruise control simply won't work and at worst you'll get some wonky changes in engagement height from hot to cold. It will not hold the clutch down and burn out the clutch like you can do with the factory assembly.

The clutch rod angle if it's way off will likely just bind up the pedal and it'll just feel wrong or get clicking/popping sounds when pressing so you'd know right away to get it corrected. That and you should always eyeball it for a straight push of the rod anytime the AFP is changed so it shouldn't ever be an issue if following the adjustment procedures as outlined in the install guide.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:45 PM   #480 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM View Post
Hi Swindler,

Yes, you can simply loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper and lower arm halves to alter the overall pedal height without changing anything else in the setup.

To adjust the AFP only a little bit as you say (about a tooth in either direction) you should be fine as long as you setup the clutch rod angle carefully to begin with. If it's already pushing at an off angle then moving a full tooth in the opposite direction might put it off angle quite a bit. The best thing to tell you is make the change and just use your best judgement. If it still appears to be pushing straight in/out after the change then no worries. If it's off you'll need to do a clutch rod angle adjustment procedure as well.



For the upper switch it is just that simple. Loosen the switch lock bolt to where you can push the mount up/down with a little force. Push the pedal down just slightly to take-up any linkage slack, push the mount down so the switch meets the rubber bumper and retighten the bolt to lock the adjustment. It took longer to type that then it does to actually do it.



Hope that helps!

Best Regards,

Ryan@RJM


Ok thanks for the response, I am not good with doing anything like this but I feel like I should be able to do this if I want to, so I've been trying to read up on it. I had it installed by a shop so I don't know if the clutch rod angle was set up correctly or not lol but I'll take a look and see if it looks like it's going in straight. I don't really know what I'm looking at to begin with lol. But yeah after looking at the pics an stuff I kind of think I understand


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