DIY: Tein EDFC II (or I) Controller and Motor Kits Install

Master_Ly

First, thanks for checking out this thread. If you've found this thread useful, please rep me. To be candid, it keeps me motivated in creating more in the future.

I know there's several other threads in the various Z/G forums for this kind of install but everyone has their own style in telling stories so I'm just providing mine. Never hurt to have more cross-references.

I HIGHLY RECOMMENDED DOING THIS INSTALL WITH YOUR TEIN COILOVERS INSTALLATION! I DID NOT DO THIS AND I WISH I DID! SEE MY DIY COILOVERS! PLEASE EXERCISE CAUTION AND SAFETY. I WOULD RECOMMEND READING THIS ENTIRELY FIRST AND ATTEMPT THIS 'DIY' AT YOUR OWN RISK. GOOD LUCK!

VEHICLE

• 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport

HARDWARE

• EDFC Motor Kit M12-12; Part # EDK05-12120
• EDFC II Controller Kit; Part # EDK04-P9669

TOOLS

• The TEIN kit will come with mostly everything you need.
• Quick Splice Wire Tap Connector 22-18 Gauge (Red)
• 370Z Service Manual to help torque bolts and nuts to spec and additional reference materials for installation.
• Standard metric hex key/wrench set
• Gloves (I prefer latex disposables)
• Eye Protection
• Flat Head Screwdriverv (small)
• 100% Silicone Sealant

PREWORK

• I highly recommend doing this as part of TEIN coilovers install. SEE MY DIY COILOVERS!
• Park the car and put parking brake on.
• Loosen the lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
• Jack the car up.
• Put the car on stands placing them in ideal locations (e.g. see image below). I used 4 jack stands.
• Remove all tires and lug nuts.
• I did modify the 8mm TEIN click wrench for better fitment and less scraping of the coilover. (optional and see image below)

FRONT SET
I'm starting this off assuming you're doing this as part of TEIN coilovers install. Otherwise you'll want to use my DIY COILOVERS to get to the point you've removed the front strut tower assembly because it's virtually impossible to install the EDFC motors without damaging parts of your car. With the strut tower assembly removed, you want to remove the dust cap that's on top of the coilover. I started on the driver side.



Next I used the click wrench to loosen the locking nut (circled below) and remove the 'click' assembly. It's the little metal knob to manually adjust dampening.



Now using a 3mm (I think) hex wrench, remove the hex bolt from the dampener.



Now look for the following TEIN supplied items: LEFT is threadlocker and RIGHT is grease. Do NOT get this confused!



Add some grease to the hex bolt you just removed. Do NOT add threadlocker.



Now screw the hex bolt back in and make it flushed. I did wipe off some of the excess grease.



Get one of the EDFC motor. It doesn't matter which one of the four, they're all the same. Add some grease to the motor part as shown below.



READ CAREFULLY: now mount the motor and slowly start the threading by hand with the entire motor clockwise. Once it's started, keep going until it won't stop turning. Then with a small flat-head screwdriver, spin the top screw as shown below, clockwise as well, but just a little bit like 1 full turn. Then do the motor the same, then screw, then motor, you get the idea... You'll know you're done once you can't spin the entire motor anymore clockwise.



After you've mounted the EDFC motor, Add a cable tie to prevent the protective sheath from sliding.



Next I used the same small flat-head screwdriver and started to gently slide on the rubber cover. Be careful to not pierce the rubber cover. These rears are much easier to do.




TA-DA!



Next I started to route the wiring. Now you can do this however way you want to so I'm just showing what I did as one example. In the box with the EDFC II controller, it should have four bundles of wires, each marked for each corner of the vehicle. Since we're starting on the front, driver side, choose the bundle meant for this corner. I marked the spot I thought was the best to follow and make sure it's inside that rubber grommet thing.




Ultimately it's entering the same path as the red wire.



But first I tucked the wire to behind these fuse boxes.



Now it's a good time to install again the driver side coilover. It's the reverse of the removal and you'll want to use both my 'DIY coilvers' and Nissan repair manual (see above 'PREWORK' section).

Next start do EDFC motor mounting on the passenger side coilover. It's the same as the driver side. Assuming you've done this, select the wire bundle for this side and this is path I thought was best to route the wire for the passenger side.



You want to go and snake the wire under the black plastic piece as marked in yellow.




Here it's existing the other side of the black plastic piece, now on the passenger side.



My preferred path to get to the same entry point into the cabin as the red wire as indicated by my finger.



Both driver and passenger side into the cabin! If you carefully snake it, it should lead straight down to the left of the ECM.



Now with both wires in the cabin, peel back the flooring. There's a black, circular clip to the right you want to remove first. Then like the yellow line, just lead both wires behind it. You can put the flooring and clip back.



Keep following the yellow line and tucking the wires behind those plastic pieces to keep it clean. Once you got both wires to the center console around the shifter, then this is a good stopping point for the front so now it's a good time to mount the rear motors.

REAR SET

Now it's time to install the rear EDFC motors. You're first going to look for this opening for a hex screw.



You're going to use a hex key to remove the hex screw and then the metal dust cap.



Now you'll want to use the TEIN click wrench to remove the clicker assembly.



Here I've placed the metal dust cap and clicker assembly together and screwed the hex screw back in to lock it together. This way it's easier to put away.



Now time to remove the hex bolt.




Add some of the TEIN grease. It looks like a lot but it wasn't. It was kind of spotty since I knew screwing it in, it would kind of 'spread'.



Now screw the hex bolt back in and make it flushed.



Gently wipe off the excess grease.



At this point in time you prepare and mount the EDFC motors EXACTLY the same way as you did for fronts. It's probably easier just to scroll up and see those steps if you need to reference them again.

Now after you've installed the EDFC motor, grab your silicone sealant. It's time to make some parts of the motor somewhat waterproof.



The area I circled, apply the silicone sealant. Make sure you cover all areas but don't go crazy and have these crazy clumps. I just make sure there was a nice layer. Wait a couple minutes for it to try.



Now put the rubber cover on. Be gentle and the rears are much easier to put on than the front. Add some silicone sealant to the circled part.



Here I've placed the stuff I won't need to use anymore back into the TEIN box.



Now it's time to do the rear wiring. Again, you can have your own method so I'm just showing what I did as one example. I found it easier to start snaking the wire from inside the trunk. You'll have to remove the rear plastic pieces to expose these vents right below the tail lights on the inside of the trunk and pretty much majority of the trunk. Please keep in mind that you also have to select the right wire bundle to the EDFC motor corner of the car you're connecting to. So I started by snaking the appropriate wire down the vent starting on the passenger rear side.



Next I removed the clips from the fender well guard to get behind it and fuel tank piping guard. Then I pulled the wire through from the fender well, went BEHIND the fuel piping, made the connection to the EDFC motor, and then wrapped it in electrical tape in an excessive manner.



Here's what it looks like all together.



Now I've put the clips and fender well guard back in place.



Got the fuel piping guard back on too.



I repeated the same snaking through the vent process on the drive rear side, made the connection, electrical tape the crap out of it, and sat it on this little notch in the fender where you see the blue of my car.



Better view of that little, factory notch in my fender.



Then I put the fender well guard back in place. The wire is such high quality and so stiff, it actually sits on that notch just fine and without any movement when connected to the motor.



Big picture view. Just make sure you give it very little slack. It's been since June 2014 and I still have no problems with this set-up. (yeah, that behind in doing this DIY, haha)




Now routing the wire on the driver side following existing wires. This is near the rear strut tower. Again, doing this with the TEIN coilovers install is best.



Doing the same on the passenger side. Again, following existing wires route.



Here is where I led my EDFC wires to and is pretty much the pit of where all my applicable wires that lead into the trunk have all the excess amounts of wires stored. From here I channel it straight through the center console. Keeping it clean!



Example of the wire route I took in the trunk, around the spare tire.




CHECKPOINT

At a high level, you should have all of the following done:

• All EDFC motors mounted and secured
• Front coilovers at least mounted but may not be completed bolted in yet if you're doing the 'DIY coilovers' too
• All EDFC wires routed for all 4 motors
• All wires leading to the center console so it pretty much looks like a 'rat's nest' LOL

EDFC II CONTROLLER

So I chose to route my wires to the center console because I wanted to put my EDFC II in the center console, concealed and tucked away. By doing this, I had to remove the 12v outlet / cigarette lighter. I don't smoke and my other one charges multiple USB outputs so this made the most sense to me. So here's an image of the outlet and I want to remove. Ultimately the outlet will be the channel to lead all of the wires into!



WARNING: it pushes out, inward towards the center console! I thought it was some 'magical' way the other direction hence all the markings.



Removed.



Here I'm snaking the rear wires through the center console. You'll need to remove your center console to do this. It's just a couple of bolts and there's a ton of tutorials in this forum that'll advise.



Before going any further, here I'll try to explain what's next without pictures. I was getting so excited to finish I forgot to take pictures. As part of your TEIN wire bundles, I think there's like a couple 'master wire connectors' that connects all four of the motor wires. It goes like this: two rear goes to one connector and the two front goes to another connector. At this point in time, make all these connections. Next identify the connector that's meant to power your controller.

So now you have three distinct connector-wires: one connecting both rear wires; one connecting both front wires; and one power supply connector. I measured the length of wires I needed the power supply to get to my stereo receiver and then bundled all three distinct connector-wires together and cable tied them. It's that little bundle to the bottom-right of my shifter. You can see the power wires leading towards the front where the stereo receiver would be (red, black, yellow, and green).



Here's a different angle. See those bundle of red wires all jammed under the temperature controller? I'll explain that in a bit...



When I had installed my stereo receiver, I created marked, lead wires from the following so that I could just tap into those wires for electronics in the future: ground, 12v/constant, illuminating, and accessory. Most standard stereo receivers have these and probably the best source for the same junice. This is the bundle of red wires jammed under the temperature controller. Here I'm making the connections accordingly with the wire splicers.

Green = illumination
Yellow = 12v/constant
Black = ground
Red = accessory




Cleaning things up and tucking the wires away.



Got the wires leading into the center console and connected to the controller.



EDFC II, powered on! Pretty...



When you turn it on for the first time, the controller will perform an auto adjustment on the motors and default to the above. It's kind of alarming to hear because all of sudden the motors are turning. This is why.

Now you'll probably want to go back and finish the 'DIY coilovers'. Honestly, I had installed the EDFC II after and definitely doing it all together saves so much more time.

Remember to torque nuts and bolts to spec. Keep it tidy.

REFERENCES

• Tein EDFC II Instruction Manual
• TEIN Install Blog
• Zero (0) is the stiffest. Sixteen (16) is the softest.
• EDFC controller does generate heat but it's negligible since it's manually adjusted therefore not constantly running. It's powering four motors after all. I imagine the Active EDFC is a different case.

NOTES
For anyone interested, I ended up buying these parts from ModBargains.com after days and days of shopping around. Trust me when I say I'm a very serious person and set high levels of expectations when it comes to major purchases and they were able to meet me at those points in addition to being patient, quick, and efficient in making the order happen.

Please let me know if you have any questions. I'll do my best to help my fellow Z (or G) members out.

Master_Ly

reserved for op

Master_Ly

Tutorial for mounting the front motor set is done. Will work on the rear portion this weekend.

Master_Ly

Complete.

theDreamer

Looks good, I have the gen I and love it.
It is weird hearing the motors if you are not use to it, and I change mine only a few times a year so always takes a second to remember the noise.

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Zbrah

Repped and subbed!

One of the most detailed DIY I've seen around

bb370z

Nice! This is next on my list also! I just finished a winter project installing Tein Monoflex coils, front Spl arms and eibach sways. Thanks for the DIY posts man. I referenced your coilover install several times.

nismo13807

question.. with the edfc install... does it matter what click you were at on the coilovers before unscrewing it out to install the edfc? or all 4 struts can be in random clicks and the edfc will autoadjust it back to 0 or 16?

Master_Ly

I feel the same way, Dreamer! Can you tell any difference visually from yours to mine?

Master_Ly

Thanks! Dude, this took three nights to do plus it didn't help I waited six months to write it up so I appreciate it.

Master_Ly

Very similar set-up! Nice! I have Whiteline pending install. Thanks for the kudos.

Master_Ly

Negative because when you screw back in the hex bolt, you're going to flush all four struts anyway.

Post install and turning on the EDFC controller first time, clicks won't matter because the self-adjusting (to zero) is just that and will 'self-adjust' each strut accordingly. I would advise limiting the tinkering of the dampener manually once the motor is on because you can tinker all you want via EDFC controller.

ENT-Z

Nice write up. I have the EDFC Active with the GPS and G sensors and love it.

Orestp

Great write up on the EDFC install - any issues reinstalling the strut tower brace after the EDFC motors have been installed? Is there any clearance issue or issue keeping the wire from the EDFC motors clear of the strut tower brace?

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DEpointfive0

My kind of DIY. Really dumb áss friendly for people like me.

Now... If only I had Teins...

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