DIY: Tein Monoflex Coilovers and SPL Camber Kits Install

Master_Ly

First, thanks for checking out this thread. If you've found this thread useful, please rep me. To be candid, it keeps me motivated in creating more in the future.

I know there's several other threads in the various Z/G forums to install coilovers and camber kits but everyone has their own style in telling stories so I'm just providing mine. Never hurt to have more cross-references.

PLEASE EXERCISE CAUTION AND SAFETY. I WOULD RECOMMEND READING THIS ENTIRELY FIRST AND ATTEMPT THIS 'DIY' AT YOUR OWN RISK. GOOD LUCK!

VEHICLE

• 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport

HARDWARE

• Tein Mono Flex Sport Spec Winding Master
• SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
• SPL TITANIUM rear camber links
• SPL Wrench (x2)

IN THE BOX
Tein Mono Flex Sport Spec Winding Master




SPL Stuff





TOOLS

• Standard metric tool set especially 12, 14, 17, 19 (mm) sockets and ratchets.
• Standard metric wrench set as like sockets.
• Rubber Mallet
• Small Flashlight
• Car Jack (ideally kind for low profile vehicles)
• Jack Stand (x 2 or 4)
• Torque Wrench ranging from 35 to 150+ (in-lb) (1/2" and 1/4")
• 370Z Service Manual to help torque bolts and nuts to spec and additional reference materials for installation.
• Gloves (I prefer latex disposables)
• Lug Nut Wrench
• Wheel Lock (optional)
• Eye Protection
• Pointy Hammer Tap
• Breaker Bar
• Dremmel or something to cut or shave down a screw
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Air Compressor and Tools (optional)
• Tire Stoppers (ideal if you're using only 2 jack stands)

PREWORK

• Park the car and put parking brake on.
• Loosen the lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
• Jack the car up.
• Put the car on stands placing them in ideal locations (e.g. see image below). I used 4 jack stands.
• Remove all tires and lug nuts.
• I didn't measure factory ride height because there are plenty of other threads to obtain this data by searching for 'lowering spring install'.

FRONT SUSPENSION UNIT

Remove the strut tower brace. (14mm)



Remove these clips with the flat head screwdriver.



After removing the clips, you can pop off the plastic cover. You can leave the rubber lining as is and the plastic cover slides out from under it. remove these 2 nuts (14mm). Now the brace should come right off.



I started with the passenger side front assembly. I sled off the ABS lines.



I just pinched the ABS lines so they were out of the way.



I removed the brake line. This bracket is flemsy and will bend when you try to remove it so you may want to use a wrench to keep it in place. The nut is on there pretty tight.



I put bolts and nuts back when I can so I don't lose track of them.



At the base of the shock towards the wheel knuckle, you'll see a black bracket, remove all of the marked bolts. The center one that goes through the eye of the base of the shock is everyone's 'favorite' nut and as most affectionately believe was torqued on by Godzilla (19mm). You'll either need to use your breaker bar or a air wrench to remove this nut. Then remove the other 3 bolts (14mm) and the bracket should come off.



Here's my mangled 'Godzilla' nut. I replaced this.


Now you'll want to remove the bolt (14mm) holding the bottom, front sway bar for easier shock assembly removal. I used the car jack to take pressure off of the bolt so it would easily slide out. Be careful when jacking up the knuckle to not hit the rotor or damage the retaining nut at the bottom.



After removing the black bracket, remove the car jack and now remove the 3 nuts at the strut tower (12mm).



Make note of the strut tower brace and not lose it.



Now you should be able to slide out the assembly and be care of the ABS and brake lines. Here's what mine look like side by side. Make note of the positioning of the lines mounts as for you want install the coilover for the right side. On the 'Tein' label by the part number there's a 'R' in this case since I'm installing the passenger side. I didn't mess with the ride height; just left it as is from Tein.



Now to remove the upper camber arm by removing all marked bolts (14mm).



Another view of the bolts holding the upper camber arm.



In process of removing the upper camber arm. The one in the front I got the nut off but I had to use my sharp tap thing and use the rubber mallet to gently hammer the bolt out. It was just tight.



Upper camber arm off. It will slide forward but don't worry, it won't fall on you or hit the ground.



If you haven't realized by now, lots and lots and lots of sand particles will come from everywhere, places you wouldn't expect. Just clean as you go like the below. Here's I'm removing the upper camber arm from the upper part of the knuckle.



Upper camber arm off completely.



For the record, this rubber washer might start rolling out of nowhere. It's not needed to be reused.



Getting ready to install the SPL upper camber arm, make sure you get 'like for like'. Here's how you tell. There's a difference between passenger and driver sides.



I shortened the adjustable arms to the shortest as possible for installation only. This is the direction it should be for installation as well; make note of where the bolts go in.



I found it easier to start by mounting the SPL arm to the upper park of the knuckle first. Here it is sitting flushed. It's a tight fit so I had to use my rubber mallet and GENTLY tap it in. Avoid hitting the center piece.



Another view of it sitting flushed.



Now I mounted the arm to the body of the vehicle and put the bolts in. You can use the aid of the car jack to help left it up and hold it in place while you mount the arm. Do note the SPL adjusting nut is 12mm.



Another view of the mounted upper camber arm.



I swapped over the paper gasket from OEM to the coilover. I probably didn't have to do this but I also didn't see it hurting either.



At this point installation is reversal starting with mounting the coilover and screwing in the 3 strut tower nuts, then the black bracket at the base of the coilover, etc. Use the removal steps above and reverse it to help guide you for the installation. Again use the car jack to lift things and hold in place to making screwing in nuts and bolts easier. Here I'm in the process of installing the bracket at the base of the coilover.



You'll now want to use a Dremmel to cut off the tip of this bolt that holds down steering pump reservoir as marked in the image.



Here it is completed with the brake line in place.



Here it is completed with the ABS line in place.



Directions are the same for the driver side. Remember to torque nuts and bolts to spec. Keep it tidy.

REAR SUSPENSION UNIT

Starting with the rear passenger, I used the car jack to support the rear spring gently and just enough to remove pressure on the bolts caused by the spring. Then loosen the following bolt (19mm).



Remove this bolt that's at the base of the rear shock (19mm).



Now remove the two nuts holding the top of the rear shock (12mm).



Finally for the shock and spring removal, you're going to barely loosen the bolt in the back of the basket that holds the spring (17mm) and I mean barely so the 'dial' on that bolt doesn't shift. Now you can slowly lower the car jack and the spring will kind of flop out. You can now also remove the rear shock.



Next is the rear camber arm. You can start by removing this bolt at the bottom of the knuckle (17mm).



This is the other side of the rear camber arm connected to the body of the vehicle. First make a marking of where the markers are since there's a little 'dial' on this. If you look closely, you'll see it. You'll want to align it back when you do the install. Then remove this bolt as well (17mm).



In the process of removing the above bolt, it won't completely move the bolt out of the way unless you drop the rear sway bar some. So remove those bolts for the rear sway bar (14mm) then you should easily be able to move forward.



SPL and OEM rear camber arms side by side. I actually adjusted the SPL to the same length. Make note it's ideal to have SPL Wrenches (x2) to make the adjustments.



Ready for install. This is exact mounting position.



Make note of this slider and bolt. They're unique and fit each other only. This is the one mentioned about marking position before removing.



SPL rear camber arm installed. The marked bolt does sit in a specific groove so again, follow the marking you made during removal.



Now you're going to swap the rubber seat from the OEM spring to the aftermarket. It should fit perfectly on the spring. You'll notice there's a specific groove in the rubber seat and that's because it seats in a specific way in the spring basket.



Now to get ready to mount the spring adjuster. I had to remove the green tape on the spring adjuster. It's on there to keep that plastic bushing in place which also needs to be retained and mounted with as well.



Exactly how the assembly should look like: rubber seat for spring; spring; and spring adjuster.



Sliding the assembly into the spring basket. The rubber seat thing for the spring goes into the bottom of the basket fitting the grooves perfectly. You can spin the assembly until it seats itself accordingly.



You're going to want to use the car jack to bring the spring basket with assembly into position so you can slide the bolts back into place while holding it with your hand in place as much as possible. You can use the car jack in the spot in the picture or under the gently-centered under the spring basket being careful not to bend or pinch anything. Start to bolt everything back up all related to the spring and shock assembly by reversing the removal steps mentioned above.



Don't forget to tighten the rear bolt of the spring basket. Again, this should have been barely loosened so the dial wouldn't have shifted. Now you should be able to remove the car jack.



Assembly completed.





Directions are the same for the driver side. Remember to torque nuts and bolts to spec. Keep it tidy.

REFERENCES

• Front shocks approximate weight (lbs): OEM 12 vs Tein 13.7
• Front upper camber arms approximate weight (lbs): OEM 2 vs SPL 3.6
• Rear lower camber arms approximate weight (lbs): OEM 1.4 vs SPL 2
• Rear shocks approximate weight (lbs): OEM 5.8 vs Tein 7.3
• Rear springs approximate weight (lbs): OEM 4.9 vs Tein 8.5
• I followed the instructions in the Tein manual with the measurements and pretty much came at spec from the factory. I've also read this from other Tein owners. The only thing that was off was 0.5" taller on the rear spring but that might have been me when I was spinning them around and goofing off after getting them in.
• Once you've used the spanner wrench to tighten down the locks, don't forget to tighten the bolt (12mm) that holds the brace for the ABS and brake lines. It's originally loose so you can slide it up and down. There's a specific distance for mounting position on this as well.
• The collars, spin right and they go up, spin left they go down.
• SPL Front Upper Arms Z34 R35 Document
• SPL Hybrid Adjuster Document
• Tein Sport Mon Flex Sport Spec Winding Master 370Z 09+ G35 07-08 G37 08+ User Manual

NOTES
For anyone interested, I ended up buying these parts from ModBargains.com after days and days of shopping around. Trust me when I say I'm a very serious person and set high levels of expectations when it comes to major purchases and they were able to meet me at those points in addition to being patient, quick, and efficient in making the order happen.

Please let me know if you have any questions. I'll do my best to help my fellow Z (or G) members out.

Master_Ly

reserved for op

Zbrah

Repped and subbed. Thanks.

Master_Ly

Thank you! I couldn't finish because I got taken away for Titanfall and a movie, haha. I'll finish today.

Master_Ly

Tutorial is completed. When I get a chance, I'll scan the documents I got from SPL and Tein for anyone and list it in the 'Reference' section.

I hope this helped you!

jwick

subbed. Nice job! How's the ride?

__________________
'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Master_Ly

Thank you! Finally finished tonight actually! I was waiting on some nuts that got f-ed up during the process of removal and a rod assembly that got scrapped really bad at some point in time. They all arrived tonight and just finished up. Next I need to figure out the alignment and adjustment but I'm saving that for another night, haha.

shaun66

Great write up! Repped

Master_Ly

Thank you! I'm about to add more notes after working on it tonight.

Master_Ly

THREAD COMPLETED. Final addition: added 'In the Box', added one more step to 'Front Suspension Unit', and provided PDFs of all documents and manuals under 'References'.

Enjoy yourself.

jwick

Drove it yet?

__________________
'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Master_Ly

This weekend. I got 3 cars in the driveway (roommates) and it's PITA to shuffle them around.

Master_Ly

UPDATE: rides FABOLUOUSSSSS!!!! Hahaha. Can be stiffer than the way Trebek's mother likes it.

It's really awesome though. I even got the EDFC II in but been lazy about writing up a tutorial...

nismo13807

please make a diy page for the edfc!!!

Master_Ly

Shoot I totally forgot about this. I'm not sure when I'll have a chance due to work. It's pretty easy though. Have you got the stuff in already?