DIY: AMS Shifter Install
 

http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...tml#post195906

First off, I used most of The Hack's DIY http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-kit-370z.html
to do the install and I apologize for my shitty camera as some of the pic's are a little bright or out of focus

Tools required:

Socket wrench and sockets (10mm socket in particular)
Assembly Lubricant
Loctite (not required but if you're conscious about potnential shift knob movement over time, then go ahead and dab some on; it's pretty cheap to purchase anyway)
Phillips head screwdriver


I rented a lift which was paid by the hour, so I couldn't take as many pictures as I'd wanted and I was in a hurry to get the shifter installed.

Here are some before shots:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01695.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01694.jpg

For the most part you can follow The Hack's install procedures.

Lift up on the center leather console and unplug the SRM module
*Referencing The Hack's pics*

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/interior.jpg

Unplug SRM module

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01701.jpg

Remove these screws to take off the side panels of the center console

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01696.jpg

Remove the 10mm bolts to the rear of the console. I forgot to take pictures of this but it's pretty easy to access; Simply move the seats forward and the 10mm bolts are in plain view and easy to access.

Once you have the center console loose, you can gain access to unscrew the rear 10 mm bolts holding the plastic shift plate in place. There are 4 10mm bolts total, and the 2 in front are easy to reach w/out moving around the center console; the rear requires you to loosen the center console as The Hack mentions.
*referencing The Hack's Picture*

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...alum_plate.jpg

Once you can see the big plastic plate, remember the arrow is pointed towards your stereo

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01697.jpg

Here's a shot of the 5 pointed metal shifter plate:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01698.jpg

Shot of the layers of shift boots

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01699.jpg

When you are unscrewing the 3 10mm bolts on the 5 point plate, remember there is a spring underneath so hold onto the plate as you are unscrewing the last screw

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01700.jpg

Underneath the car, here is a shot of the rubber boot that covers the shift linkage to the shifter (you can easily get it out of the way; no clips or anything attached)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00015.jpg

Here's some shots of the rubber boot moved to the side

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00016.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00019.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00020.jpg

Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage, you can take the assembly and use a vise or a c clamp. I ended up using a vise since it was available. But a C clamp will also suffice.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00021.jpg

I tried to stick the bottom end of the shifter on the vise and twist the shift knob by hand; needless to say it was a fruitless effort and I ended up wrapping the shift knob with a towel and put the shift knob end on the vise and twisted the shifter using a Phillips screwdriver as leverage through the hole in the shifter.

*Referencing The Hack's DIY for a picture for an exmaple*
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...nobremoval.jpg

Here are some shots of the unscathed shift knob (it's pretty easy to loosen the shift knob on a vice w/out scuffing up or damaging your shift knob)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00022.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00023.jpg

Here is a comparison shot of the stock and AMS shifters:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00024.jpg

Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage underneath the car, you can go ahead and slide out all the layers of boots including the shifter out of the console and replace with the new AMS shifter.

At this point, use some assembly lubricant and lube up the shift joints on the big white plastic cushion. Go ahead and align the shifter in place and put the 5 point plate on top. Remember to keep the shifter aligned so that the little knob on one side is pointed "right" as this is your Reverse lockout feature. The "knob" is located above the white plastic cushion and below the bulky black portion:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/SNC00024.jpg

Once you have the AMS shifter in place, go ahead and screw in the 3 10mm bolts for the 5 point plate. Do not tighten bolts at this time yet but just keep them in; Go back underneath the vehicle and screw on the bolt connecting the shifter to the shift linkage. Once completed, shift through each gear making sure every shift is unobstructed and has free movement.

Put all the layers of boots back in place in reverse order. I'd recommend aligning the boots together then putting the screws in, and THEN putting it all together to align with the holes on the center console. Makes installing/aligning the boots that much easier.;)

Remember to re-connect the SRM module and re-clip any clips from the console pieces as necessary.

Go ahead and put a little dab of loctite on the shifter to avoid shift knob movement;*I would suggest screwing in your shift knob first to ensure that the shift knob and shift boot align properly first*

Finally, some installed shots (Didn't have time to clean up, and you may want to use a towel around your work area to avoid scratching up your interior console pieces like I ended up doing unintentionally :eek:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01702.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...x/DSC01703.jpg

Impressions:

1. Shift knob is exactly as Dustin said: about 33% shorter throw. It's a good solid feel with no vibration.

2. I went on the highway to see if there was any high rpm vibration. No difference in vibration as the OEM shifter; In this case I'm assuming it's a huge difference compared to the B&M. (I don't have any experience with the B&M) And the throws were smooth.

3. Definitely looks a lot better than before and everything sits flush:p

4. No grinding down of a separate plate on top of the OEM 5 point plate required. All original OEM bolts and plates are used with this installation minimizing the need for additional material (IE serrated lock nuts to keep B&M blue plate in place with the OEM 5 point plate)

5. Cheaper than B&M kit :p

Overall installation difficulty 1-5; 1 being super easy and 5 being super hard, I'd rate this installation as a 2.

Keep in mind I had access to a lift and all the tools necessary.

Good luck all and have fun.

Sweetness!

Bada$$ review man :tup:

bump!

and +1 rep

Thanks man. :tiphat:

It's nice having some choices for Short Shift Kits other than B&M. :driving:

yep...B&M is way over priced on the shifter for the z...

Some forum vendors are selling them for $180 shipped. How the hell is that over-priced? :icon14:

Good write up on the AMS. :tup:

honestly shifters dont need to be more than 150-160...thats my :twocents:

How did this hold up stillgood?

Yeah no problems or issues.

I just got mine in the mail from Dustin at Z1. I will be installing very soon!
:happydance:

+1 Rep from me :tup:

awesome, good luck with the install!:driving:

i'll be using this install tonight, will + rep if i can.

good luck with the install :tup:

Shifter in, shift knob destroyed. Tried everything short of Blackmagic to get this thing off gently. Applied some heat from a heatgun to the lower part of the knob, set up locking pliers on the base and wrapped the knob in painters tape then about 3 layers of paper towel and duct tape; anyway strap wrench method failed so I went ahead and used the old fashioned looooooong handled channel locks. The knob finally budged and was gotten off (I had a friend helping hold the pliers) but little did I know until the tape was removed that the leather was wrecked and torn:( second kink I ran into was getting the bolt to fit correctly through the shift linkage and shifter, solved this by pure luck as It just slid in.

Overall feel: 7
Throws feel very mechanical and not smooth(may get solved with a weighted knob). First gear also feels 3 feet(inches :p) more to the left than stock, on my test drive I often started in 3rd by mistake. My biggest quail is how far left and right the shifter moves while in gear, about 3/4 inch both ways! Shifter assembly was covered in mobil-1 synthic assembly lube, also I'm taking into account the bushings are new so maybe things will smooth themselves out over time. GREAT WRITE UP, was followed when needed and provided what was needed. Thanks!

Thx for the write up. I installed the B&M today (paid 170 shipped). The cutting part wasn't to bad, as I used a dremmel. It is definately a bit more mechanical, but the shifts are much faster, as stock is just so mushy. As far as side to side movement, I have none. Coming out of reverse, you actually have to move the shifter left before it will pop up, not just move it forward and out of reverse. According to B&M, this is on purpose to create an "audible click" to let the driver know reverse is now locked out. Oy yeh, just like the last guy, stock shift knob destroyed, leather also peeled off the plastic knob. All in all, a pretty easy install. Now I just need a new shift knob :-)

glad it helped :tup: