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Ok all i know most of this is rather basic but i thought id create a DIY anyways. First off you will need to remove the brace bar (Yellow boxes)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Ok all i know most of this is rather basic but i thought id create a DIY anyways.
First off you will need to remove the brace bar (Yellow boxes) and then the Cover (blue circles) ![]() Next you will need to remove the connectors off the back side of the plenum, there should be 4 small bolts back there. Then remove the sensor on the upper right corner. After that is done pull and remove all the hoses on the back and the two in the front. (Light blue circles) After that you will need to remove the main bolts that hold the plenum down. (yellow box) Then you will need to disconnect your upper intake from the throttle bodies. (green circle) ![]() Once all that is done you need to clamp the two coolant lines on each throttle body and then remove the 4 bolts and 4 washers that hold the throttle bodies on to the plenum. Once both throttle bodies are disconnected, remove the clamped lines and take the throttle bodies out to clean them. You will have some buildup and since they are off now you might as well clean them up. ![]() Now that everything is disconnected remove your plenum and set it next to the new one. You will need to transfer over both throttle body gaskets and the primary gasket on the bottom. You will also need an E6 socket to move over both upper studs. Once this is all complete you can move onto the spark plugs. With the throttle bodies and plenum out of the way, changing your spark plugs is a breeze. You can see one of the coil packs on the engine and my wrench pulling another out. Each coil pack is held down by a small bolt. Remove the bolt, disconnect the electrical connector and pull the coil pack out of the way. Then take a spark plug socket on an extension and remove the spark plugs. Reverse the order to put the new ones in and Tq your new spark plugs to 25nm to call it a day. . NOTE. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME TO AVOID MIXING THINGS UP!! ![]() Once spark plugs are all done, reconnect the coolant lines to your now clean throttle bodies and set them on the sides out of the way. ![]() Put the new Plenum on the engine and re-install the 4 bolts on each throttle body to secure them back to it. Then install the 6 primary bolts and 2 nuts to hold the plenum down to the engine. ![]() Once the throttle bodies and plenum are secure you need to reattach the lines on the back and front and re-secure the intakes to the throttle bodies. ![]() Once that is done put the strut bar and engine cover back on and you are done! If you liked this DIY toss me some rep or a comment on my profile page! If you have questions hit me up in a PM and ill do my best to answer promptly!
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#4 (permalink) |
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Nice write up man!
![]() I'd be VERY interested to see the internal design of the Z1 plenum to see what's going on and what was really changed in comparison to stock. I know that it IS an improvement over stock but, how so is my question.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Did you take any pics of the z1 manifold prior to install? Im curious to see what was modded.
Also, did you need to do a recalibration when the throttle bodies were removed? Nice work! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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13 370z- |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Did I see they picked up 10 whp from a just a pnp of the plenum???
That's pretty good -- under $300 aint bad either I will have to think about getting this...
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#10 (permalink) | |
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 02-26-2014 at 12:37 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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![]() It could be anywhere from 3 -5 over OEM then. Maybe. If that's the case, then yeah, $300 is a bit steep, and doing on the cheap by DIY/local shop who knows what they're doing would be the only way to make it even worth the trouble. No comparisons of that floating around? ![]()
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 03-16-2014 at 02:05 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Its all going to come down to opinions of "which is better" because different people have different wants out of the manifold(top end whp, or lowend midrange TQ). The Z1 Manifold has some clear gains up top over the M370, but are those truly "gains" when comparing to the M370, or just avoiding losing top end AND losing low end vs the M370. The Z1 needs to be compared vs the OEM manifold, not the M370 to get true gains vs OEM. Last edited by 1cleanZ; 12-10-2014 at 08:37 AM. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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I wouldn't say it's clear, what else was done? Do we believe this with no other data? I hate peoples belief sometimes in a big company that what's put down on paper must be 100% true. I did this already but I compared the OEM mani vs a ported upper, lower and ported throttle bodies. Theres a reason they won't show you OEM vs just a ported upper (1-2hp maybe). My testings not complete though. We will redo this soon with this cars cats remove. ![]()
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 12-10-2014 at 09:59 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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To answer 1cleanZ. I tell all that the Motordyne is better for low end while the Z1 is better on topend. We spend more time on the top of the graph at the track and on mountain runs.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Great write up. I've been wanting to do this.
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