wow,... all i can say is. wow. thats some nice work there. thats a clean clean interior
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10-02-2010, 03:19 PM | #49 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 42 |
Oil Pressure and Battery Voltage Gauge Cluster
The oil pressure and battery voltage uses 2 PLCC2 LEDs (per pod) for the back light and 1 PLCC2 LED (per needle). The clock uses 6 PLCC2 for the back light (similar to odometer).
Black Cat Custom will print the custom gauge faces, and it should be available for purchase soon. Stay tuned for completed pictures of the custom gauge cluster.
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Last edited by DIGItonium; 02-09-2011 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Embed Picture Files |
02-03-2011, 08:16 PM | #52 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 42 |
Sorry for the late response. Removing the triple meters is something I've not done yet, but will have another shop work on instead. The ones I modded was for another member.
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02-03-2011, 09:05 PM | #53 (permalink) |
RIP Tony :( (1969-2015)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 18,802
Drives: '14 Mustang GT/CS
Rep Power: 67 |
DIGI, finally got my other parts (hood & side skirts) in from Japan! Will be dropping the car off soon I hope and will then get that triple gauge installed. I haven't forgotten, I promise!
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SpinTech Mufflers, Airaid CAI, JBA H-Pipe, Lethal Performance Over Axle Pipes, MMD Quarter Panel Louvers, Cervini's Ram Air Type IV Hood, Carbon Fiber Radiator Cover, GT500 Rear Valance, Quad Exhaust Tips
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02-09-2011, 12:53 AM | #54 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 42 |
Combination Meter: Part 1
The LEDs are PLCC with 3 cathode and 1 anode pad. The LEDs I used had a single anode and cathode, so I had mask off one of the pads to prevent a short causing the LED to not light up at all.
List:
1. Removing the combination meter does NOT involve removing the steering wheel. With the vehicle running, turn the steering wheel to reveal the screw cover behind the steering wheel. Pry the cover, and remove the screw. Do the same for the other side. Turn off your car and remove the 3rd screw underneath the steering wheel column. Pry the lower steering column cover. Note the lip of the cover can be squeezed out of the steering wheel. 2. Underneath the steering column are 4 bolts to remove. 3. Carefully pull out the combination meter, and note the lip of the upper cover can be squeezed out of the steering wheel. Disconnect a couple of wire harnesses. There are 2 wire clips (black and white). The white one is easy to remove. The black one is difficult, but is held down by the electric tape. It can slip out of the tape and pop off after removing the meter, and then it can slide back into the electrical tape. Follow the service manual guidelines to disassemble the gauge cluster. The following pictures can guide you through the disassembly process. METER HOUSING FRONT Mark the home position of the needles. Use a couple of butter knives to pop off the needle. Use business cards to prevent scraping the face. When putting the needle back, push the needle in AWAY from home position. Gently move the needle towards home position until it stops. Simply nudge the needle until it slips into home position. METER HOUSING REAR Remove the metal bracket to get to the tachometer PCB. The needles are controlled by a stepper motor. The motor assembly is serviceable by popping off the housing. Inside are a couple of gears: one connecting from the motor output, and the other to the shaft of the needle. If there is a situation where the the shaft slips from the gear when pulling the needle, you can put it back in the gear and align the needle. FLEX CABLE TACHOMETER Carefully pry each end of the connector to release the cable. FLEX CABLE FUEL/TEMP The LCD back light power connector is next to the flex cable. There are 4 smaller screws holding the LCD assembly. Remove these screws AFTER removing the mainboard.
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02-09-2011, 01:01 AM | #55 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 42 |
Combination Meter: Part 2
MAINBOARD
Here you can change the LCD, needle, and function button back light. TACHOMETER PCB Be extremely careful with the pins of the gear selector and SRM LCD. Tape a card over it to prevent bending it after removing the PCB. When placing the PCB back in place, make sure these pins line up. As a guide, the pins will be visible through the holes behind the PCB. ODOMETER BACK LIGHT Notice the masking tape used to mask off one of the pads. DISPLAY ASSEMBLY FUEL/TEMP Be extremely careful with the flex cable. Pry 4 tabs to release the silver bezel. Then pry the tabs of the black cover to release it from the diffuser housing. BEZEL FUEL/TEMP This picture shows the three tables that hold the bezel in place. There is no need to disassmeble the entire combination meter to re-insert this bezel. Therefore, the meter can be reassembled while the bezel is out for modifications. LIGHT DIFFUSER AND LED ARRAY The surface of the diffuser is delicate so be careful not to scratch it by wiping it. There are 2 tabs holding the LED array PCB. I had to mask off one of the pads because it would short with the (+) pad (see next photo).
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