Originally Posted by dP3NGU1N Umm, it's hidden underneath the console. If you can still see it you should get your eyes checked and apply for a super hero license. Good
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02-05-2014, 12:12 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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Good DIY man. I think whomever is doing the MOD could figure out what type conector to use.
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04-21-2015, 02:46 AM | #19 (permalink) | |
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Not while it's my DD. But it is on the list.
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04-21-2015, 11:51 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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Edit: Nope, it WAS sott. go figure. Anyway, Just wanted to give a bit of an non-update. No issues since doing this. Not that I anticipated any issues but just thought I'd mention it. Wrong connectors and all.
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Last edited by dP3NGU1N; 04-21-2015 at 11:53 PM. |
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06-29-2015, 08:13 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Hi there. I was curious about this jaw sensor mod as I've only done the power brake mod for burnouts. I am not tracking and didn't know about trail-braking but read up on it now. It is clearly a desirable skill on the track (and road). But can you elaborate why and in what way the ECM interferes when trail-braking? Does the VCD apply additional unwanted brake during a fast corner? Why would switching off VCD not suffice. Thx for enlightening me
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06-29-2015, 10:18 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
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Personally, I would use insulated crimp connectors. But that's just because I have a bunch of crimp connectors laying around (I've worked as an Electrician and an Instrument Tech and my hobbies often involve electrical equipment). Soldering, if done properly, will give a better electrical and mechanical connection than crimp connections, especially if used in a location that promotes corrosion, but makes changing the switch more difficult. I have seen people slide the insulation off the crimp connector (not an easy job), solder the crimp, and then replace the insulator - overkill in my book.
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06-29-2015, 06:23 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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07-02-2015, 03:14 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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subd, looks good!
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07-02-2015, 07:46 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Will this also disengage the ABS on a 09'?
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07-02-2015, 07:53 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Sorry. Couldn't help it...
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08-18-2015, 10:04 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Howdy, I just got done with this setup on my 14 370Z, however my traction control light always stays on, whether the switch is off or on? Is it suppose to trip a code or something that I need to clear?
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08-19-2015, 01:22 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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It should not trip a code. Though once you disable the yaw sensor, the traction control will remain off until you restart the car. If you start the car with yaw control engaged, you should have no problems.
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08-19-2015, 05:24 PM | #30 (permalink) | |
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There are two inter-related electronic stability control functions, ESC and VDC. ESC is basically monitoring difference between wheel speeds at all 4 corners and if the rear wheels are turning faster than the fronts, the ECU will cut fuel/ignition to stop the wheel-spin and keep you straight. VDC monitors "yaw" and it is trying to determine if the car is sliding and will trigger one or more brake calipers via the ABS controller. For instance, VDC figures that if you have a little left hand lock in the steering, and the yaw sensor shows lateral acceleration to the right (i.e. sliding to the right - what you get when cornering hard to the left with a slide), it will trigger the right rear brake to try and straighten the car up so you can then steer out of trouble. All very good except if I am flat in 4th on the approach to T9 at Philip Island GP circuit - a part of the circuit where your are turning left, the car is sliding towards the right hand side of the track and you require a trail brake deep into the approach and the VDC gives your right rear brake caliper a tweak which pitches the car right towards the wall - THAT gets your attention. It is exactly the wrong thing for the electronics to be doing, and why I have a switch to disable it. Road car safety algorithms are usually the precise opposite of what you require on a track. |
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