DIY Yaw Sensor rocker switch

dP3NGU1N

So I've seen several threads showing that the yaw sensor has been pulled or put on a switch but no one has written an actual DIY for it yet. I finally went out today and purchased all the things I need to make it happen and figured I'd do a write up for anyone who's interested in doing this but are still unsure what to pull.

Most of the information I used to put this together is in another thread. If you want to do this right you're going to want to have these tools handy:
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20 gauge wire
soldering wire
soldering gun
and a couple of heat shrink tubes
x-acto knife or wire stripper
One SPST switch of your choice. I picked one that fit into the center console area where the control for the convertible top would go. The mounting hole dimension for this slot is 35mm x 20mm but the switch I purchased was in imperial (1.45in x 0.83in) and it worked just fine.

To begin you need to remove the cupholder from its slot. All you need to do is carefully pull up with your fingers for this, no tools are required. This will also give you access to the switch placeholders if you intend to put the switch in one of the slots.

Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of this portion since I got carried away with the work, the yaw sensor is right betwee the cupholder and your shifter. You will not have access to the module itself but there is a harness coming out of it. mine was bound in electrical tape, I used an xacto knife to carefully cut away the tape to reveal the individual wires. You are looking for a green wire; which provides power to the yaw sensor.

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Cut the green wire and solder an extra length of wire to each side. Be generous, I cut too little the first time and it wouldn't reach the switch. Use the shrink tube afterwards to prevent any accidental connection between the exposed wires.

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Solder each end of the wires to one of the posts on your switch, order doesn't really matter since it's simply completing a circuit at this point.

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At this point you're basically done, simply put the cupholder back and test out the switch.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

dP3NGU1N

Quick question to anyone else who's done something similar. The VDC light does not come on, is this normal? When I press the "VDC off" button the light will activate. But with the yaw sensor off is everything disabled regardless of what is displayed on the HUD?

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

synolimit

Only on 13's. This has been done before FYI.

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13 370z-

synolimit

O and next time use these on the switch. Much more professional.

Attached Images

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13 370z-

dP3NGU1N

What are those?

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

synolimit

Really? They're male/female electrical connectors. You don't think that switch has that big flat brass with a hole just to have a wire passed through do you? Wire goes into the connector and the connector goes onto the brass. The hole is there because the female connector has a bulge kinda that locks into that hole. That way the connector won't come off with vibration. And for arch issues they're covered in a plastic shield.

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13 370z-

dP3NGU1N

Sounds excessive for a simple connection like this.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

synolimit

Looks ghetto as hell like this.

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13 370z-

dP3NGU1N

Umm, it's hidden underneath the console. If you can still see it you should get your eyes checked and apply for a super hero license.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

synolimit

If you're doing a diy for others to follow, do it right! We don't need ghetto hacks to a 30k car. This is why 350's and civic get a bad name. Do it right or not at all.

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13 370z-

SouthArk370Z

While the insulated spade connectors are not a necessity, they are a good idea. Not only do they provide long-term insulation (electrical tape has a tendency to come loose after much time in a hot environment), they also make troubleshooting/repairs sooooooo much easier when the time comes. YMMV

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BGTV8

Mine is done, used crimp connectors and ratchet crimper and mounted the rocker switch in the spare panel between heated seat switches.

Since I am a 2009 model, isolating the yaw sensor and pressing the VDC button illuminates both VDC and "slip" warning lights. To re-enable, the ignition needs to be cycled.

Takes about a half-hour and the most difficult issue is stripping the insulation off the green wire. In the end , I elected to hold the wire with long-nose pliers and used a sharp knife to score the insulation which then pulled off between my fingers as there was not sufficient room to use my wire stripping tool.

Attached Images

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Z&I

Just double checking ...
I also have an 2009 6MT and am looking to disable the VDC and ABLS when I take it to the track.
You've intercepted the GREEN wire going in to the controller ... and you've successfully dropped out the VDC and the ABLS.

Do the brake lights work and Can you do a standing burn out now ???

I'm looking to install a line lock and take my car to the drag strip...need to do a standing burn out to warm up the tires...

Thanks,
Bob

BGTV8

Brake lights work, not sure about standing burnout - definitely lays rubber (big-time), but have never tried a burn-out against the brakes - I suspect that this still will not be possible because most ECU's these days that have fly-by-wire throttle have a throttle limitation when the brake lights are on - which is to stop old farts like me hitting the gas too hard and ending up over the footpath and inside the store.

To answer your question - the mod fixes my problem which was the electronics intervening when I am trail-braking on the track, but I don;t reckon it will fix your problem which is more aligned to drag-racing ...

martin82

this is perfect thanks, will do this ASAP