Well finally did this. My OCD wouldn't allow me to have just one switch and two blank panels, so I ordered three switches. Also my OCD needs to have the switches in the same direction, so the switch for the yaw sensor is backwards, as normally most accessories would not be on all the time:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics...yawswitch1.jpg

I always de-insulate the terminals so I can solder after crimping. Just a habit from my Jeep I guess, so I re-insulate them with heat-shrink afterwards:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics...yawswitch2.jpg

At least there is lots of areas underneath to keep the wires out of the way:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics...yawswitch3.jpg

I think with three switches it looks OEM:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics...yawswitch4.jpg

Nice work Ohio! We received some unseasonable rain in CA last Friday and I was able to put this mod to the test. I found a couple of spots to pitch it sideways and keep my foot in it. I need a bunch of practice before I feel completely comfortable doing this. Throttle modulation is pretty tough because of the short wheelbase, it really wants to hang out if you give it too much gas, but no whip-back caused by the computer hitting the brakes. Finally, the car isn't trying to kill me any more. :happydance: Note that this is combined with an aftermarket LSD.

DIY Yaw Sensor rocker switch
 

Can anyone confirm it's the green wire on 2014+....and for any electrically inclined would a reverse polarity switch be ok to use? I can source them locally and they look pretty oem. I just don't know if it would hurt anything


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Not sure if wire color is still the same.

A DPDT switch (AKA reverse polarity switch) will work just fine but you'll only use one pole of the switch. A SPST switch will also do the job and should be cheaper.

Thanks for the reply I'm going to check for the cheaper regular two pole. But all they seem to show online is the reverse polarity. I would assume they would have both but figured I would check just incase


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Can anyone tell me if this will let me stand on the brake and do a standing burnout for the drag strip, there are so many posts of people that do this mod and they say they don't know , not sure, haven't tried it blahh blahh , so who can say for sure yes or no that I can do a standing burnout with the brakes?

Unsure; as I added line-loc to mine also...didn’t want to fry the rear brakes.

A yaw switch will not allow standing burnouts; you need to pull the stop light fuse. There is also at least one DIY on how to install a switch to accomplish the same thing (breaks the brake-lights-are-on signal to ECM).

The other option is the throttle hijack feature from Ecutek.

I just got mine working, and the software changes to the ECU will now allow me to burn rubber with the brake on as far and as long as I want.

My yaw sensor has been disabled for years. That had zero impact on burnout capability.

What actually happens in your case, is that the throttles will be closed, if the ECU sees the brake switch on and the gas pedal voltage high. This effectively prevents the driver from pressing the brake and gas pedal at the same time. The yaw sensor is not an input in this case.

Ok thanks guys , it looks like I'll have to get the arc add on to my up rev tune then to enable burnout mode

When switching off traction control and the installed yaw switch does the ABS light also come on, effectively shutting off ABS too?

No. You can cut the power to the yaw sensor and still retain functional ABS.

Descriptions, drawings, schematics, etc are in the FSM (link in my sig).

Not that you shouldn't believe Gomer_110 (he gives good answers), but:
1) Everyone here is just Some Guy On The Intertubes.
2) The FSM is a great resource for anyone that does their own work on a Z.

I have the FSM; however, as we all know it simply doesn't tell the experiences of others when it comes to modding factory systems. IMO it's useless in my query.

Most of the time at least.:rolleyes:

It would tell you that the yaw sensor was not involved in the ABS system. ;) But, yeah, it's good to get confirmation from other members.

So that green wire is a pain in the *** to get to. Would it seem smart to insert two posi tap to the wire at both ends, then extend the wire to an on off switch. After that, just cut the wire in between the two posi tap?

Pic of TC turned off & 2nd picis with Yaw sensor(green wire)open.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...78b3c2a451.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ed9ff03ddb.jpg
I called it my “Drift Switch” & didn’t bother with TC switch after adding yaw disconnect switch.
Never played with ABS to see how they performed while yaw was disabled.
Good to know they work :tup:


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What's that D symbol in the gear shift display? :icon14:

D is for “Drift” :tup:

It’s alive

Just zip ties the rest of the wire to stick the green one out, insert the posi tap and go to town with it. Once everything is secure, cut the green wire and you are good to go

I notice when using the switch it will turn both slip and traction control off. Is it ok to engage in this manner or should traction control be turned off first than the yaw switch?

interesting...did yuou have to splice any ecu wires or is it straight to ecuteck via exisiting? im about about to finish off my flex tuning in the spring and might ask to have this dropped in on my phone app (bluetooth dongle).. do you know if that kills ice mode as well, or is that an abs hard disable?

BTW..

as of time of this post, i found the switches on amazon... they cost me a buck & change each and fit perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i already hooked up my pump speed controller override, the vdc bosch box is next and have duct fan control on #3 in the works.

only thing of concern.. watch your wiring, your e brake can bump and possibly snag the wires, so keep that in mind...

and for petes sake, use spade connectors, heat shrink and solder. its a permanent install so treat it as such.

what do you mean by this?

I have some OE style Push switches that makes the Yaw mod a lot cleaner. I have a bunch of extras.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XDH...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XYo...ew?usp=sharing

I just got mine in the mail you sent me.

Since there are 4 wires on the back, do you only use 2 of them, one on each pole? Or do you need to crimp them into 2 sets, then connect to the YAW wire?

Just am not sure how to go about this since this switch is illuminated.

Hi . Off topic. but that warning light ,, , that flashs hard out seams like every time I change down a few gears and pull out to pass on the open road ..

is this normal ?.
car has brand new tyres

What sizes are your tires?
As it could be a couple different things :ugh2:
Also does the throttle cut or stumble any during acceleration? :driving:

That means your rear tires are spinning if everything is working properly and it is in traction control mode. Turn the traction control off and then try it. You will see real quick if it is spinning so be prepared to take proper measures with your right foot or you may loose it.

Black = ground
Red = 12V+ parking lights
Yellow = 12V+/Switched Ignition/Accessory depending on what your plans are for the switch. You can find a switched ignition source if you are using it to disable the yaw sensor.
Blue = terminal 85 or 86 of your SPDT relay

You can combine the yellow and red wires but the switch icons will be illuminated even when it's not dark outside.

I just pulled the whole sensor. Aside from the dash light showing the "slip" warning always being lit, the car is rolling along like it never even heard about a yaw sensor. I don't know how to disable the "slip" warning light on the dash though. Anyone know how to do that?
I guess the bulb will eventually wear out at some point...lol

It's a tiny led. You'll probably die of old age before it burns out :rofl2:

i have an 09 370z m/t.
i bought another hazard light switch and wired the yaw switch mod to that switch and put it into the blank switch opposite of it (passenger side of shifter). This only works on the m/t, automatic's actually have a functional switch there.
Spray painted the top of the swich silver to match the silver trim. At a glance if the button is flush with the trim the yaw is disconected and the dummy warning light is on. When the button is depressed, its back to stock with no dummy lights. It's always in off mode unless i need to bring it to a shop (drove them nuts, cause they couldnt clear it).
I also have the heated seats, so 2 out of the three slots where filled on the center console. I used the middle slot and put a dim green illuminated switch, that controls my drl's in the headlight housing. It's the one wire mod for drl's on earlier model 370z's on this site. Just a different way of using the limited space while keeping it stock looking.