Good write up but im not the sharpest tool in the shed need pics...lol

Did this on Saturday. Got overflow right at the end of the 3rd bottle. Super simple, no pics necessary.

I actually got overflow on the fourth quart, a little less than 1/3 of it.


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7at
 

Is it much different to change the 7at oil?

exactly what I want to know...anyone??

It is quite a bit more complicated for the 7AT. The process is described in the service manual. Because the torque converter retains a considerable amount of fluid they recommend draining the fluid twice, with a expendable refill in-between and a run cycle. Also getting the correct fluid level after the refill can be a bit tricky. It's certainly do-able just a bit fiddly.

If you are interested in doing it download the service manual.

Can the transmission fluid change be done by driving up on Rhino ramps ? Enough clearance to work under the car that way ? Or is it necessary/better to jack it up, and place jackstands to keep the car level ? The ramps & jack I have, the stands I would need to buy.
Thanks

The car must be level for proper fill, so yes jack stands are the best bet.

Whatever you do don't drive up onto ramps and then try to jack the car or you will probably run yourself over :)

thanks dude, I will look into this. :tiphat:

Do our transmissions have a filter that we have to change?

The six-speed trannys have no filters. Think about it- they are sealed units that are not exposed to any outside contamination, so they don't need to filter anything. There's a magnetic pickup on the drain plug to pick up any metallic debris from normal wear, but that's quite small.

Has anyone added Redline lightweight shockproof oil to the MT-85?

I ask because I've heard it can smooth out notchy, grindy shifts in 350s and other Japanese sports cars. My shift into second is always notchy to the point of almost being a grind. In fact, when the transmission is cold it will grind going into 2nd if I don't shift super slow.

MT-85 has been in it for about 7k miles.

i used mt-90 and noticed that the grind from 1st to 2nd has been almost cured. but i do get resistance when shifting up into higher gears and i have yet to really use and abuse the tranny.

here's my video:

2009 Nissan 370Z - Manual Transmission Oil Change: Powered by Gatorade! - YouTube

FYI - coming from 350z/g35 owners...

A lot of us have had issues with Aftermarket Transmission Oils. We have tried all top of the line oil companies and many have reverted back to OEM for smoothness shifting, especially in the cold. Hopefully, the 370z responds better to aftermarket oils.

Just changed... 18556 miles. Takes full 3 quarts. If your pump is like mine, you'll need the 4th quart so you can get all 3 in.

Put in redine MT85 and it's still notchy when cold. Shifts a little better when warm.

The oil that came out was still super clean. Think I'll go to the recommended 30k on the next one.

hey evader I did mine at 31k and it was really prestine. Take into consideration I only had a couple of sessions where I was really working the trans in the canyons. Hope this helps with any longevity questions.

Guys, remember that our six-speed trannys are sealed units. There's no way for any outside contamination to get in, so it's normal for the fluid to appear pristine. But the high speed operation of the gear sets still does breakdown the lubricant over time. Unless you're actually racing the car for much of the time, oil changes at 30K with the synthetic MT85 should be plenty.

Should GL5 fluids really be avoided like someone mentioned? The AmSoil 80W90 in my car is a GL5. And in the cold it is awful up until it warms up. I think I may have ever so slightly grinded 1st just because the gear didn't want to engage at around 1-2MPH (stop sign).

I felt the shift knob vibrate like crazy and I think I heard a very brief noise (my music was up), which I immediately stopped trying to force the gear in and pulled it back to neutral. It just drives me nuts, it's the 2nd time I drove the car since doing the change and the cold weather just doesn't like this Amsoil stuff. The OEM was way better.

But once the Amsoil heats up, it does improve the transmission quite a bit for sure - smoothens things out.

Its not the gl-5thats the problem. The GL is acroynmed for gear lube. The 5is the quality level. The concern that the drivers of these cars should have is the WEIGHT of the oil.

Sorry, that's not true. GL-5 differs from GL-4 lubricants in the amount of EP additives it uses. These extreme pressure activated sulfar additives were designed for specific applications and are known to bond to, and damage soft materials such as brass and copper. So using a GL-5 lubricant in a Nissan gearbox that uses brass syncros can result in greatly increased wear (to the point the syncros no longer function).

So AlphaSnacks should contact Amsoil (or any other oil company) to verify this. And before damaging his gearbox further, immediately change his gearbox lube to a GL-4 lube like Redline MT85 that meets the viscocity requirements as listed by Nissan.

Yeah ur right....GL5 is for the diff. I get those two mixed up lol. Thanx for the catch!

I changed mine over the weekend, mileage on my '09 is about 29,500. I used the Redline MT85. I pulled the front wheels up on my Rhino ramps and jacked up the rear end and used Harbor Freight jackstands at the designated jacking points at the rear. My floor jack had a removable 3 inch cup so I took a hockey puck, bored a 1/2" hole in the center, countersunk a hex head 1/2" bolt in it and put a washer & nut on the other end to hold it on the jack's lift arm. Worked like a charm with no damage to the differential. I can't really say though whether or not I feel any difference, but it was scheduled maintenance so I'm glad I did it.

I just did this today with Redline MT-85. We did it on a slight downhill slope with the front tire on ramps to make the car pretty much level (however, my four jack stands in my garage would have given significantly more clearance). The only comment I have to make is that you should get more than 3 qts of fluid. I used as much as I could out of the three qts and it never overflowed like I was hoping - I did reach my pinky finger into the fill hole and verify that the fluid level is good as it's pretty much right at the fill hole. I'm going to order another quart and top it off sometime in the near future (I'll have to get another washer, too).

Talk about an easy DIY! Thanks, Spearfish :tup:

JARblue, i've got a 2011 aswell and i put in 3qt/2.8L for us Aussies and it never spilled out the filler hole. The car was perfectly level - i checked it using a spirit level against the side skirt. When i do the diff i will add more MTX oil to the gearbox. So far there is approximately 2.9L in there but i only drained out 2.5L...

There was metal shavings that resembled glitter in the drained oil. It was a caramel colour. I used Nulon full synthetic 75W85 and it fixed my
cold shift stiffness.

Just did this with the motive pump - Motive Products 0090 Motive Products Brake Power Bleeders and Accessories with a barbed fitting. Transfer rate was about 5min/qt, likely due to the small ID tube inside the unit (made really for brake fluid). Still, pumping outside the car was alot easier than underneath. No mess. Have not tried the harbor freight pump, but used similar pumps from pepboys/autozone in years past with poor results. Also, it would cost me at least $10 in fuel to drive to the nearest HB.

I added an extra ~100mL to the gearbox and the oil dribbled out. Perhaps there was some volume of oil trapped in the mechanism of the pump, and the oil which cannot be picked up off the very bottom of the container.

I used an STM Tom Thumb pump:
http://www.onestoplubeshop.com.au/im...s/CA%20586.jpg

You guys in USA might have something similar. Minimal mess except when the nozzle end comes off the holder.

As for the diff, i couldnt get a torque wrench underneath to torque up the filler. I didnt jack the car up to do the diff so i just used a ratchet and made it snug. No leaks so far :)

For the guys that have done this job. Is there enough clearance in there to perhaps use a small funnel with a small clear hose attached at the bottom of the funnel? All I need is to be able to have the funnel just slightly higher than the fill hole. I can even angle the funnel a bit.

No room for the funnel in the sedan. Assume the 370z is identical. What you can do is run a length of hose from the filler hole on the side of the trans to the side of the car. Insert the hose into the funnel or funnel into the hose. Raise it a foot or two higher than the fill hole and pour. It'll be a slow process, but should work.

Yeah, the funnel I have has a clear hose maybe 1/2" - 5/8 " inside diameter so it would flow Ok. I was thinking one of those dollar store clear turkey basters or large diameter syringe. I just don't seem to have any luck with those pumps. I also thought of using one of those pumps you hook up to a drill, might work on a low speed. Thanks for your input.:tiphat:

I used a motive brake bleeder bottle. Bought it at jegs without any reservoir fittings. Went to menards and got a 1/4" npt to barbed fitting, and a length of hose. It takes about 5 min to transfer 1 qt of fluid. Leave practically no mess, doesn't fall apart on your half way through the first use either. Total was ~$50 for the bottle, fitting and hose.

the turkey baster or large syringe would take a long time due to the viscosity of the oil.

even with the pump i used, it took a few minutes of hard pumping (the spring in the plunger has a lot of resistance because the pump is design to pump fluid out and draw fluid in from the bottle simultaneously each time the plunger is pressed down or rises up)

Funnel & hose can get messy if you accidentally drop the contraption whilst pouring. You'll need a mate underneath to tell you when to stop as well.

in summary, get the pump :) you will love yourself for it when you do the diff as there's no room for a funnel and hose job there

How much should a tranny flush be @ the dealership if i supply them the transmission oil?

I used a manual transfer pump: the kind you can pick up at the auto parts store that screws onto the bottle in place of the original bottle cap. Worked great. The only tricky bit is that the refill hole is a tube that goes in for an inch+ (for the overflow level check), and you need to find a plastic/rubber tube that slips into there nearly perfectly (and then adapt that to your pump tube. I don't remember which size worked for me, I just went to the hardware store and bought small lengths of several small diameters.

Here are some pictures I took, hope I can help.

Tools used:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...41610015_o.jpg

Car on Stand (Didn't need to take off the wheels.):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...04030895_o.jpg

Loosen Fill Plug (FIRST!):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...84371813_o.jpg

Loosen Drain Plug:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...82004136_o.jpg

The pump I used (Walmart):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...35832758_o.jpg

Start filling until overflow (start to overflow after 2.75 quarts)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...85381899_o.jpg

Use new gaskets/rings (small price to pay to prevent leaking)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...05549459_o.jpg

Yamaha, how did that pump work out? Any leaks from the unit itself during use?

drain plug should be loosened 2nd.
1st should be the filler - just in case someone superdooper glued the filler plug on for example.

but i guess you're exempt because you have a back up car :)

Sorry, mistake...

Will fix it.

Thanks

Mine was fine, no issues.

:tiphat:Thanks for the pics as well. I believe I bought the exact same pump from Walmart. I have four of those same OEM washers and I'm going to do the transmission and differential at the same time. They were fairly pricey but I don't want to take any chances.