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I (finally) did this, thanks for the DRL DIY! I pulled the DRL connecter out and managed to get it apart and still yanked the tan wire off the pin
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#1 (permalink) |
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![]() ![]() I (finally) did this, thanks for the DRL DIY! I pulled the DRL connecter out and managed to get it apart and still yanked the tan wire off the pin so I'd recommend you just cut the tan and red wires 2-3" up from the plug and just leave the ends stuffed down plug empty sockets (like the red one below) so if it needed to be reversed you could just strip the end then and twist (solder if you're a pro) them back together ![]() Was very quick once sure had proper red / tan wires (other reds and tans had light silver stripes on them) just focus on the plug lower right in my pic and you'll be fine you definitely need the bladed plug to plug into the "on when engine on" source, no way to connect the wire just jamming it in there (not from lack of trying) but, luckily, since I'm a garage hoarder I dug into my electronics box-o-crap and found a match. Went very quick so detailed the engine bay as I reassembled. Thanks again! |
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Sorry for my big stupid ignorance. But how the heck do I do this? Read the whole 5 pages and I'm so confused.
So get to the box Find the red and baige wires Cut each in half? Then what? Sorry need a step by step picture guide. Anybody want to help a wiring noob? I wish there would be a video or a step by step detailed guide.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Alright so I'm doing this today and I don't want to cut the wires. Are the little white prongs where the cable is in the connector where I need to insert a flat head to get them out? It looks like or do I need to take off a section of the white connector to get to where I can release the two wires? ![]() |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Figured it out! Now to actually get the connectors out..... ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
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![]() Awesome. It looks more complicated than what it really is. Its super easy. Post a pic when you are done for sure! ![]()
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Essentially your cutting the two wires involved with DRL in IPDM box which is essentially a wiring junction box. Nissan for whatever reason created a complicated circuit that determines when your DRL are on or off. Kinda of puzzling since usually a engineer takes the easiest path for design. You first step should be disconnecting the battery. Find the two wires that provide power and ground to the DRL..the guides on this site point them out. When you cut them you will have 2 loose wires and the two stubs that are plugged in. For myself I just electrical taped wrapped the ends that are still plugged in. You you need to remove some of the wire's insulation. You can do this with a tool designed for that or use like a razor blade. Twist the wires together then insert them into a spade connector. Your DRL require 12 volts and there happens to be a 12 volt port with nothing in it. You take your spade connector and put into that slot. Thats it. Its simple. Probably the hardest part is finding that spade connector that will stay in that slot. The one I had was slightly to wide so I trimmed it down some and inserted it. Easy peasy.
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#14 (permalink) | ||
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Thank you for the pics! I so get it now ![]() Quote:
Thanks for the explanation. Will definitely do this later today! ![]()
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#15 (permalink) |
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Well, here's a question for the automotive wiring geniuses. I like the idea of wiring the DRL so that they stay on when the headlights are on … and it seems like a pretty simple wiring job based on the above DIYs. However, is there a simple way to wire the DRL so that they stay on with the low beams, but turn off with the high beams (… much like front fog lights typically do)?
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