Thanks!

Alright so I'm doing this today and I don't want to cut the wires. Are the little white prongs where the cable is in the connector where I need to insert a flat head to get them out? It looks like or do I need to take off a section of the white connector to get to where I can release the two wires? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8de1c9b516.jpg

Figured it out! Now to actually get the connectors out.....http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...35ac6cac5d.jpg

Awesome. It looks more complicated than what it really is. Its super easy. Post a pic when you are done for sure! :driving:

All done! The hardest part was getting the wires out of the main connector! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ba644dfb8f.jpg

My bad, saw your posts late. Yeah, that was the hardest part. But worth it if you don't want to cut wires. :tiphat:

Just did it this morning too! Love it. :driving:

is there only ONE fuse in the IPDM responsible for BOTH running lights? or do the drivers side and passenger side have individual fuses?

if there are two fuses.. I may have blown one.

right now only my drivers side running lights come on

Awesome just did this! No cutting but I soldered wires in case I wanted to revert.

Mind if I pick your brain for this , May need help

Just wrapped up with mine! Great write up! Thank you!

Hey guys.

I noticed when I first start the car in the morning both drl wont light up. I decided to drive the car around my town then went home to cool off. I started the car again few minutes later and both drl lit up. Anyone having this issue?

Thanks in advance.

Chris

Will this mod work the same way for the 2017 Nismo? Trying to do this to my Z.

I think it should, don't think there is any difference between the Fuse module of the nismo vs the touring sport etc and I just did mine a few weeks back and worked like a charm.

How difficult would it be to wire them to a switch so they can be controlled manually?

post #79. Page 6.

If I'm reading the switch thread correctly (More than possibly not), the switch would kill all power to DRL's so they would not work regardless or time of day or headlights. Which isn't a problem.

My follow up question here is - could the wires be laid out in such a way that the DRLs could run all the time with engine power, as most people have done in this thread. OR be switched back to the stock way of dimming/turning off at night?

I ask as in the UK I can imagine having DRLs at full strength with headlights on would fail our MOT (Annual Vehicle Check).

I am just looking into options as I would love to do this mod for 364 days of the year, then on MOT day flick it back to OEM, pass my MOT, then flick it back to always ON mode.

I need to dig into switches and wiring a little more but 2x the below switch could work? One for the red wire and one for the beige. Both switches to position 1 would work OEM setup, flick them both to position 2 and hey presto, they stay on at night.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/66-2246.html


EDIT.
Just found a DPDT all in one switch which should do the job.
http://cpc.farnell.com/molveno/b41lc...Gx&CMP=CPC-PLA

This is a great mod. Mine is done! Sweet....

Don't know how I'm only seeing this now! Looks great, I'll be doing it as soon as I can get a free hour to sneak into the garage. I grew up with an electronics technician, so I have a passing understanding of the lingo; and I believe the "spade" everyone is referring to is also called a male quick disconnect terminal, which you can either buy pre-insulated and attach by crimping onto the wire, or you can get a non-insulated version which you can soldier and heat-shrink to insulate. These are normally measured in either 1000ths of an inch or mm, depending on the country of origin. People seem to be buying a .250" and filing it down, but I believe a 0.187" (4.75mm) would be the appropriate size. I'm not sure if I have one down in the shed, but either way, I'll put my hands on one and let everyone know for sure as soon as I can.

Complete
 

Great mod easy to do, someone should of said i need a new connector and wire

On the first page, steps 7and 8 do state that.
If thats what you were referring to.

Just double checking on acc the drl do not come on right? Thinking of the drive in lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New user to this forum just in hopes of doing this mod on my first 370z. I was curious if anybody can tell me if this is video is works for the z?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0DzMU1a6a8

My first mod
 

Just did this mod. Very simple took about 30min total from start to finish.

The GTR vid is similar but the wire colors on the Z is red and tan and the 12v power tap is the empty relay slot.

I am nowhere close to understanding how all the electrical connections work. Was only wondering if the method used for the GTR would work for the Z, just to make the process simpler instead of having to disconnect/cut wires. This thread is quite old, glad to get a response.

Did you get this mod done? The easiest way to do this is cut the red and tan wires, twist them together crimp it to a jumper wire. crimp a cut down spade connector on the other end of the jumper wire and insert it to the open relay slot. tape up the red and tan wires coming out of the connector and you are done.

Yeah, I went ahead and cut the red and beige wire instead of pulling them out. Now just hope the spade connector stays in the relay port as some other users here had issues with that.

Now that I have done this mod. I am noticing other cars with lights in the same configuration. The local cab company uses the boxy Scions and they have the same light config. And saw some 4dr the other night with led lights that run vertical also.:shakes head:

:rofl2: guess i'm lucky here in toronto where cabs mostly drive around in camrys and corollas.

https://s1.postimg.org/5msepalk73/IMG_0518.jpg

https://s1.postimg.org/92uqhe29vz/IMG_0520.jpg

What is the brown wire for? I accidently cut brown instead of beige fml..i used a butt connection to wire it back together

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Doing this mod on my car soon. Looks awesome. :tiphat:

Just did the mod. Very easy. Hardest part was getting the IDPM cover off. Haha. I cut the red and beige wires and just taped them off in case I wanted to go back to the original way.

Cool mod! I'll be doing this in March.

I know this is an old thread that keeps getting resurfaced, but I do have a question.

I know there are two ways of having the DRL's stay on with the headlights. One can wire them through the IDPM or they can do it through the fender well at the parking light buld wiring harness.

My question is, and I already think I know the answer... But if doing this mod at the parking light bulb harness behind the headlight, then for all practical purposes, if I shut the car off then turn it back on (with the hand break on), then the DRL's should stay off just like stock until I release the hand break. Correct?

That's the way I would prefer it to be. Sometimes I like to sit in the car with the engine running with the DRL's off.

BTW, the way I want to do this mod is the same as that of the iJDM kit. http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Nissan-370z...tion-a/578.htm

???

Yes. If headlights are off and parking brake pulled, DRL stay off

... Orange Blvd time eh? :nutswinger:

Ok, so looking at that mod, I would not do this without a diode in place. The tap between the parking light and DRL should have a diode to prevent the DRL from powering the parking light during non-headlight usage.
The relay that engages DRL disengages power when headlights/parking lights turn on. Without a diode, you feeding power back into the parking light circuit because you are tapping in after relay
IPDM method does not allow for turning off unless at a switch, but does not risk circuit jumping either

Anyone else have their service engine light come on after doing this?

Nope

It shouldn't cause any SEL for those that are wondering.

Did this mod on my previous 13 base and 17 Nismo

Hello all,

just got a 2020, The steps should be the same no?

Thanks