DIY: Rear Differential Oil Change

DavidInIndy

Hey Mr. Nismo...liked your homemade ramps. Now I wish I would've looked around my garage for the spare wood I had, but the Rhino's work for me just fine.

Same as everyone else...pretty nasty fluid coming out and a gunky bolt after 17k miles. I'm not sure if I've heard anybody talk of noticing any after effects from the change but for some reason my car does seem slightly quieter with the new redline fluid in there. Maybe I'm just imagining this.

Also, anyone have recommendations on getting the engine bay "shiny"? I use a nice citrus cleaner as my degreaser, but was wondering if anyone has recommendations on a detail spray. Thx.

__________________
My favorite part of the day: being late for work.


2010 Z Touring Roadster | 7AT | Monterey Blue

Fountainhead

I'm gonna make an observation here based on what I've seen. I've never changed my Diff fluid, at 13K I'm probably not due unless I'm bored one day. My opinion is that when guys remove the magnetic plug and see the metal shavings, isn't the magnet doing it's job and keeping those particles out of the bearings and so forth? I would put forth that the diff fluid, while it may be needing to be changed due to heat/age/wear and detergents decaying over time, the metal filings on the drain plug aren't a sign of the fluid needing to be changed, but merely a sign of the diff magnet doing it's job.
Maybe I'm misinterpreting what I've read but that's the impression I get.

sparky

That may be part of it but if I recall this thread, I think the stories of black stinky goo coming out of the diff is what prompted people to change it.
I did mine while I was putting on my F.I. exhaust just because it was easier with the exhaust off.

__________________
2012 370Z GM 7AT/JWM LEDs / 3M clear bra / 35% tint / GTR start button / FI CBE SS 18" RES / Momo shift knob / K & N Typhoon / Z1 hood struts / H&R 20mm f/r / illuminated kickplates

Fountainhead

I originally posted this in another area but thought I'd park it where it would do someone some good or at least confirm my results of changing Diff fluid at 14,500 miles.

Changed my diff fluid today. Put in Mobile 1 75W90 GL-5 compatible http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...bil1_7070039-p . Typically, the magnetic drain plug was coated with iron/steel filings just like the other pics. I didn't jack it up just laid on my back and filled first with the bottle then with a large syringe my wife gave me (she's a nurse). I used just over 1.5 quarts. I filled until I saw it run out the fill hole and then let it drain for several minutes, then put the screw back in.
I got new washers for top and bottom plugs.
Fluid was like dark chocolate and markedly darker than what I put in, which was a clear yellow color.

Mozen

Honestly there would be a tolerance level (X bits o meal of X length and X width) That said i have no clue what it is on the Z. I work on Apaches for a living and its generally a huge issue for chips on something like the transmission or a gearbox....but thats an aircraft. Even with small chips tho we drain and flush the component to ensure longer life.

My personal take on this tho is that if your getting large bits of metal on your pickup then something isnt right. Drain it, flush it, and put it down as one of your scheduled maintenance items. Just my

__________________
PW 370z | AEM | MISHIMOTO | ARK PERFORMANCE | WHITELINE | NISMO | STILLEN | FORGESTAR | BC RACING | AMS | NON STOP TUNING | CARBONETICS LSD | 4 Point DOM 1.75" SCCA Spec Roll Bar + Harness Bar
CHECK OUT MY BUILD THREAD HERE

BlueDemon

Does anyone know if those fins have any fluid running through or is it just for diffusing heat? Please let me know. Thx.

ZForce

There is NO fluid running thru the fins.
Yes, it's there to just diffuse heat.

See link to post below.

DIY: Rear Differential Oil Change




.

SkipinJupiter

Got inspired and changed mine today at 29,700. Just some thoughts on the process... Draining, no big deal. Easy to get to, filler first, drain plug next.

The oil looked good, just a little grime on the magnetic plug... Let it drain and had lunch. Put in some mobile one which has a pointy end that you clip off like a tube of caulking. Had some clear tubing laying around with 1/2 I.D. That just fit the end of the quart, so I cut about 8 inches and put it in the filler and squeezed the quart container and had most of the quart in within a minute. Rather than try to squeeze out the rest, switched to the second quart and got most of it in. I combined the leftover first quart into the second quart container and squeezed it in till it came back out, plunged it and done.
I purchased a crummy $7 pump but never used it. I'm sure i would have been wearing it if the clear tubing came loose but I guess I was lucky. So anyway it worked for me and was done in no time.

370Fan2000

Thanks!

Bananaz

Doing this next weekend. Any reporting problems just jacking the rear up when doing this? I may just try to get under there with no jack seeing as I'm not lowered

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

__________________

kenchan

Use a ramp.

Bananaz

Same thing as jacking the rear up. But my main concern was about the car being tilted and wonder if anyone had any problems due to slighty overfilling it?

kenchan

ramp is easier. and never heard of such issue.

Jsolo

Don't monkey around with it, just place the car on 4 jack stands and call it a day. On my stock, non lowered g37, I could not squeeze under it to change the diff or tranny fluid. Maybe if you're #120 you'll fit

Also, this way there's no risk of overfilling. You fill it til it starts to overflow, let it over flow, then put the plug back in. Don't over torque. It is aluminum. Snug is all you need.

__________________
G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring

For sale links

Bananaz

Man you weren't kidding about the old fluid smell. God damn that is bad haha and the amount of.gunk I had on the drain plug. Absolutely gross. Really happy I did that today.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

__________________