Originally Posted by JARblue I wish I could fit my fat a$$ under the Z when it is sitting on the ground Truth. I got partially stuck when trying to
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02-27-2017, 05:24 PM | #181 (permalink) |
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Truth. I got partially stuck when trying to slide under. Had to stop freaking out so that I could wiggle my way out.
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10-01-2017, 11:34 AM | #182 (permalink) |
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Faint Gear oil smell after change?
I just got done doing this, pretty straight forward. However, when accelerating quickly to higher RPMs (5-6k) I smell the distinct gear oil smell in the cabin for a short amount of time.
I checked the diff and it's not leaking, it was slightly damp around the drain plug but not sure if it was from the initial change and I didn't clean up well enough. Anyone else had this experience? |
10-01-2017, 12:13 PM | #183 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb |
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10-16-2017, 03:42 PM | #184 (permalink) |
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Still useful x years later, thank you OP. Being a lil person I had plenty of room after loosening the muffler and jacking up the rear (a couple times). Slightly different process with the MA Motorsports diff cooler, but I'm glad I came here first.
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11-21-2017, 07:32 PM | #185 (permalink) |
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So fun , im not excited to do it again :(:)_:(:)
SO, my take away was this: garbage bag your garage floor (tape sealed and all) This stuff stinks...
was worth doing the tranny and dif though.... was crisp like the moment when I bought it.. almost had to shift a little different ... wasn't to soupy Good times... Only neg - i bought a gasket pack from z1... they were the wrong ones... had to hit up the dealership for them, since orielys was out of stock... Fun times...
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11-21-2017, 08:37 PM | #186 (permalink) |
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FWIW, I’ll toss in my .02 worth. I used to have issues getting my jack under the rear diff and front crossmember of my ex Vette(s). I scrounged up 4 2 X 10 or 2 X 12 pieces of scrap wood from the building site next door,from the dumpster with the carpenters blessing. I cut them into four equal lengths,beveled the leading edge of each one and drove the C6 onto the lumber. It made rolling the jack underneath a breeze & if I didn't need jack stands ,it gave me just enough clearance to slide under the car on a piece of cardboard to get at the diff and transmission at the same time.
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2018 Solid Red, 6MT, Touring Sport Coupe Last edited by Airwilf; 11-21-2017 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Typo |
04-10-2019, 10:06 AM | #189 (permalink) |
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I believe the recommended interval is 15k miles.
My opinion. 1st is right when you buy it if used. 7-8k if new. For used, go to start from new schedule, new 2nd one after another 10-15k. After that you can let it go longer. Another 30k is fine, oil will still be clean. Each change should have significantly less metal shavings on the magnet. After the 3rd there should be next to nothing on the magnet. Same goes for the tranny. If you have a clutch style LSD, cut everything in half.
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04-10-2019, 02:41 PM | #190 (permalink) |
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A lot depends on how much and how hard you drive the car. I'm not all that hard on a car, so:
For a new car, I like to do the first diff (and trans) change at about 30,000 miles and every 40,000-60,000 after. For a used car, I will change all fluids within a few weeks of getting the car. If any fluids look dirty, I will do another change in about a week. And then the same 40k-60k for the diff as above. If you drive hard or use cheaper lubes, you'll may want to change sooner.
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09-17-2019, 10:46 PM | #191 (permalink) |
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I changed mine 2 days ago. This time I used Liqui Moly (2048) SAE 75W-90 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Liter.
There is a built in tube in the bottle that makes the transfer a lot easier and less messy. 2 of these will be enough and there will be plenty left over in each. There is a noticeable reduction in the noise, doesn't drive differently as far as I can tell. |
03-05-2020, 09:04 PM | #192 (permalink) |
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For AT and NISMO models:
. API GL-5 synthetic gear oil, Viscosity SAE 75W-90 Except for AT and NISMO models: . Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or equivalent conventional (non-synthetic) oil Just curious....this is from the owners manual. I notice a lot of you are putting synthetic diff oil in. Why would nissan recommend this and why are most all of you ignoring it....just asking because i want to do the right thing for my vehicle. What would it hurt to put a synthetic oil ( im asking because this is what i have available in my garage) instead of convention in my Z sport? Thanks in advance! |
03-05-2020, 11:07 PM | #193 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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03-05-2020, 11:19 PM | #194 (permalink) |
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Changing your differential fluid on time is key. Not changing your differential fluid on time or when required is detrimental. I try to keep taps on my differential and change my differential fluid every 30K or 3 years. Attending track events I will change differential fluid after every event. Inspecting my differential fluid during a flush and refill I have found very small pieces of metal in my differential fluid before.
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03-06-2020, 08:58 PM | #195 (permalink) |
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Thank you sir! I agree a synthetic high quality gear oil is mandatory.....It just is odd why Nissan would recommend two different types of oil. The differentials are the same on the Nismo and Sport....correct?
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