Hey guys, I have a base 2009 z, bought the z1 motorsports base brake upgrade which came with hawk pads, z1 rotors and z1 stainless steel lines. I ran into
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07-13-2013, 02:40 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Help with rear base calipers and rotor removal
Hey guys, I have a base 2009 z, bought the z1 motorsports base brake upgrade which came with hawk pads, z1 rotors and z1 stainless steel lines. I ran into 2 issues and wanted to see if anybody could chime in to help out:
1) I can remove the caliper in the rear but can't remove the bottom bolt on the torque member of that brace that holds the brake pads in due to I guess part of the suspension/crossmember bar blocking the path to the hole. I'm unable to fit any sockets back there. I was able to remove the bolt that connects that bar to the frame but tried to remove the bolt that connects that bar to the lower control arm but couldn't budge for my life. Didn't have a breaker bar. Is that how you guys got it loose and moved it out of the way to remove the lower torque member bolt? 2) The z1 stainless steel lines I got are the 4 piece lines. Am I missing any parts or is this how the kit is? Because if so, I guess the rubber hose from the caliper to part of the hard line that attaches behind the suspension and connects to one of the blocks would still be there on the front calipers, is that correct? Thanks for any help you guys can give me. |
07-13-2013, 03:11 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Breaker bar, jack pole, impact wrench, use jack pressing up on the socket wrench...pick your poison.
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07-13-2013, 07:06 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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I use a ratcheting wrench like this to get that bolt out. 19mm
Can't help you with the lines question.
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07-13-2013, 10:06 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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thanks for the help mike. I guess the only question I got in regards to using a wrench like the one you showed is how do you get it torqued down to spec since I'm unable to fit a socket back there to put a torque wrench on it. Do you just hand tighten that thing down as hard as you can?
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07-13-2013, 11:08 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Or I was looking around and figured maybe I could just unbolt the part of the camber arm that attaches to the knuckle, then take off the radius rod off completely which should give me free access to that lower torque member bolt. I figured I would need an alignment, which I'm due for anyways
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07-13-2013, 10:41 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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You really can't get a torque wrench in there, but if you use some Loctite and crank down on it, you will be fine, or what I do, is I know what 100 ft lbs feels like from putting on wheels, so I just torque what feels like 25% more.
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