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DIY: Fog Light Hard Wire in less than 10 Minutes! W/Headlight integration!

Interesting.....I pulled the cup holder as the OP shows and I do not have that brown connector. I guess I will be forced to tear out the trunk panels and

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Old 11-19-2015, 09:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Interesting.....I pulled the cup holder as the OP shows and I do not have that brown connector. I guess I will be forced to tear out the trunk panels and wire it there....


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Old 03-11-2017, 09:13 AM   #32 (permalink)
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hello, i cant open the screw what i have to do?
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Old 03-11-2017, 12:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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wat do u mean? just drill through it if u cant undo da screw
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:20 PM   #34 (permalink)
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For you rear fog light guys. Are you guys buying the rear fog light bracket too?

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Old 04-18-2020, 04:16 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I know this is an old thread but I wanted to say it's honestly the best and easiest way to wire the light.
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Old 04-18-2020, 11:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1/4atatime View Post
I know this is an old thread but I wanted to say it's honestly the best and easiest way to wire the light.
Thanks man!
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Just followed these instructions and gotta say thanks! Really was easy and I like the fact that it uses the weather sealed factory plug in the rear.
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Old 10-07-2021, 07:24 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Is Cbtech still around? Wanted to see if there is a wiring diagram somewhere that shows this orange wire going to the rear fog lamp and what the red wire in the console is from...or goes to.
Where does one find a wiring diagram?
UPDATE: I found Cbtech; he does not recall where he found the wiring diagrams.

I have since did more searching and found that the orange wire out of the BCM is indeed the rear fog lamp positive source which is controlled by the BCM.
The red wire in the brown connector in the center console is the positive source for the climate controlled seat switch illumination. I assume if there are heated seats then the brown connectors (should be two) should be connected to the switches in the center console. As stated above, can still grab power from this connector for the rear fog lamp. Note that according to the wiring diagram, pin 7 is the one you want. Pin 8 also shows to be red, but would not have power on it (unless you have heated seats). Just do not put a high wattage bulb in the rear fog as the wiring may not support it.

I also was looking at trying to fool the BCM to turn on the power to the orange wire whenever the head & tail lights were commanded on, but just would not work. I did see how one could add a Rear Fog Lamp switch and have the BCM turn power on to the orange wire...but that requires adding a switch somewhere and tapping into the headlight/wiper/turn signal combination switch wiring, either at the BCM or in the steering column....which another person already detailed-out how to to do so.

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Old 10-23-2021, 09:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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And just because I would not let this go and have too much time on my hands......

I went looking for a 370Z combination switch (headlight/wiper) that had the rear fog light switch; found several of them...all in Spain....all with too high a $$$ cost for me.

So I stated looking for a combo switch from another Nissan vehicle...cause surely Nissan would use the same combo switch across all of their models....right??....

Well....wrong!

I looked at all the FSM at nicoclub for all the models, comparing combo switch designs, to find that the 370Z is unique. The BCM's combo switch logic is opposite to all other models in that in the 370Z the output signals are normally at a logic high, with a pulse to logic low....all others are normally logic low with a pulse to logic high. So the diodes within the Z's combo switch are reversed to those of all other models.

Bottom line....combo switches from other models will not work, only the 25560-1EA0C combo switch.

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Old 10-23-2021, 07:07 PM   #40 (permalink)
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And one more thing.....the red wire in the brown connector for the rear fog light power source....that is a 24 AWG wire, suggest using the red wires from both the brown and white connectors to split the current draw between the two red wires.

Just connect the orange wire from the BCM to both red wires under the cup holder.

What I did was to remove the terminals from the connector bodies, then used the additional wire from the orange wire to tie the two reds together, then used heat shrink to hold everything in place. This way I can go back to OEM should I ever need to.

Getting the terminals out of the connector bodies is a bit tricky....PM me and I will attempt to explain how.
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