Originally Posted by JARblue I just did this the other week during front rotor and pad replacement. The only thing I'll add here that I didn't see is that the
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07-02-2013, 06:49 PM | #16 (permalink) | |
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Damn, those are tight bleeder valves. Did you mean 70 in-lbs? |
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07-02-2013, 06:58 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Yes.
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07-02-2013, 09:59 PM | #21 (permalink) | |
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At 70 foot-pounds you would probably snap the bleeders right off (12x over spec).
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07-02-2013, 10:13 PM | #22 (permalink) | |
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I guess it's lucky I didn't have a socket small enough to fit the bleeder valves that fits my torque wrench
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07-11-2013, 09:16 AM | #23 (permalink) | |
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Also, my ride is a 2010 with 19K miles...do you think I'm due for this?? Thx in advance.
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07-11-2013, 10:08 AM | #24 (permalink) | |
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I believe Nissan recommends 2 years or 30K miles, whichever comes first, for brake fluid change interval. If it's never been done before, it sounds like you're due.
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07-11-2013, 10:17 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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It's not very effective, since the brake fluid doesn't really circulate as such. The crummy contaminated fluid hangs out in the end of the brake lines near the caliper and there is no way you are getting that stuff out without bleeding proper, whether it be manually or with a power bleeder.
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07-16-2013, 12:12 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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OK, got it. Thx JARBlue and ChrisSlicks.
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07-17-2013, 02:26 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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I'm going to piggy-back off AK's tutorial for the base brakes. The only contribution I have is that the front bleeder screws are 10mm and the rears are 5/16 (8mm). Used Valvoline Synthetic. Thanks AK for your write-up.
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03-14-2014, 01:59 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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Is your car NON AKEBONO (non sports pack)? because for sports pack Akebono, it's 10mm for front and rear bleeder bolts.
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03-14-2014, 09:48 AM | #29 (permalink) | ||
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Btw... can I say something about the 8 month response delay?
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