Installing ARP wheel studs

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 11:40 AM

I installed ARP wheel studs for 2 reasons. I wanted a longer stud to ingage more of the lug nut, and I had a lug nut strip out.

These pictures here are of the front.

First remove the wheel, brake pads, caliper, and the unit bearing. The unit bearing has 4 bolts holding it on. You get to them from behind.

Once the unit bearing is out. You can use a punch, I used a brass one. I put the unit bearing in a vise, and beat the old studs out. 4 or 5 good hits and they're out.

You don't need a press to put the new studs in. But you can if you want to. I've been doing this since the late '70's so. Now I start with the first stud and beat it in. MAKE sure that it is seated flush on the flange. Then do the rest. After you are done with all 5 studs. Double check that all 5 studs are flush.

Note: I marked the unit bearing on top so I know how it goes back on.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 11:47 AM

Now install the unit bearing. Followed by the rotor, caliper, brake pads, and wheel. This is it for the front. It took me about 2 hours to do one side.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:01 PM

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm.

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:05 PM

Now to remove and install the new wheel studs. It's just like doing the front.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:21 PM

Once the studs are installed in the unit bearing. Time to put everything back together. Install the unit bearing,

Install the E-brake shoes, and rotor. When doing this part. You have to adjust the E-brakes for proper adjustment.

Install the caliper, brake pads.

Put the Z in gear, and put the E-brake on. Install the axle nut and torque to spec. Install the locking piece, and cotter key.

Install the wheel. And you're done. It took me about 2 hours per wheel to do this. So that's about 8 hours total. That's with taking breaks to check on GF who had foot surgery.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm.

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

I'm at this point right now and I can't seem to get the 3/8" socket to fit in the 4 bolts around the CV Joint....this is a paint. I managed to get 1 out of the 4 bolts. I think i'm gonna take a break for awhile. I also need to get a 6 pt 3/8 17mm socket (socket set). Keep you up to date. This sucks...I took off a lot of linkages and wondering if I should need to take off the whole CV Shaft from the hub.

My front's taken off but I need a vice to hammer it in or buy myself an impact driver to fasten a spacer (which i have) to pull the stud in from the front side.

need to get myself a set of 6pt socket too

Rusty · 04-13-2013, 07:05 PM

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Thanks for the help! I only have craftsman stuff and the wall thickness is not working out for me. I just picked up a 6pt 17mm 3/8 socket set (both reg & deep), i'm gonna give that a try and let you know how it goes.

So you didn't need to take out the axle? I'm seriously considering that right now.

Mitco39 · 04-04-2013, 12:07 PM

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

I tried that. It didn't work. Not enough room. The ARP studs are 3" long.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:31 PM

Now about the lug nuts. I wanted to use open ended lug nuts. So I cut the top off a lug nut that I was using. Comparing that to a Z1 open ended lug nut that I got with the ARP studs. I thought that the lug nut that I cut off would have more threads in it. I was wrong. Comparing the two. There is only about 3~4 threads differance between the two. So it would be easier to just buy the open ended lug nuts then to cut the tops off of the closed top ones.

BOLIO 671 · 03-16-2018, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Now about the lug nuts. I wanted to use open ended lug nuts. So I cut the top off a lug nut that I was using. Comparing that to a Z1 open ended lug nut that I got with the ARP studs. I thought that the lug nut that I cut off would have more threads in it. I was wrong. Comparing the two. There is only about 3~4 threads differance between the two. So it would be easier to just buy the open ended lug nuts then to cut the tops off of the closed top ones.

I’m trying to figure out if this method of cutting off the caps on the OEM lug nuts would work for use on the OEM wheels. I’m interested in installing extended these ARP studs as a safety requirement for the track in order to use Drag Radials. There’s no question as to whether open ended aftermarket lugs will fit on my aftermarket wheels for the track. The issue I have is trying to find an open ended mag style lug with washer to use on my OEM wheels for off track/daily driving use.

If anyone has any suggestions/experience on an open ended mag style nut with washer or whether cutting the caps off the OEM lugs actually works pls chime in. Again this is just so I can put my OEM Nismo Wheels back on using these studs after the track for my daily driving.
__________________

Rusty · 03-16-2018, 04:52 AM

I cut the tops off of 5 oem lug nuts and keep them in the Z for use with the spare tire.

VDC_OFF · 04-04-2013, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

Mitco39 · 04-04-2013, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

I used Zip ties when I did mine, and there is no way you would be able to fit anything larger than what comes with the 15mm spacer in the front, even that had to be tapped in to get it to slide into the hole.

04-13-2013, 07:05 PM	#7 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,382 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-04-2013, 12:07 PM	#9 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way. ** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible. wheee! and Natrix like this. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

03-16-2018, 04:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,382 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	I cut the tops off of 5 oem lug nuts and keep them in the Z for use with the spare tire. BOLIO 671 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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