Installing ARP wheel studs

edconline · 11-26-2013, 03:18 PM

Thanks for the info. I contacted a local shop about cutting all the studs down. Then I can get the best of both worlds, awesome studs and the length I want. (And I can leave the hubs on)

edconline · 02-17-2014, 07:21 PM

Ok, so I am just doing this today and already running into some issues. First once I exposed the hubs and took the old studs out I could see that it looks like the teeth on the hubs stripped and I will need to replace the front hubs

As much as that sucks, the real issue right now is that I can't for the life of me remove the wheel hubs from the car! What is the trick to getting these things out of there?

Also, are there any good aftermarket wheel hubs for our car? If I have to replace them, I might as well find something better than OEM.

edconline · 02-18-2014, 03:02 PM

Time to contribute something to this DIY:
After fighting with the wheel hubs forever trying to break them loose I decided to try something. Looking at the hub, I saw no reason to have to remove it in order to install the studs, and I remember it being super easy the first time I tried it. Sure enough, you can easily install ARP studs without removing the hubs in the front:

That is what that hole is for in the dust shield, you could install studs twice as long if you wanted.. you just pull it through, seat the stud with a nut to suck it through, then rotate and do the next, etc. I thought that's what it was like, but couldn't remember then reading this I second guessed myself.

So there you go, a lot of work saved for people doing this in the future. Now sadly this doesn't help me one bit as I need to replace the hubs anyways lol, but hopefully it will help others out!

VDC_OFF · 02-18-2014, 09:29 PM

Yup the fronts don't need to be removed, it's the rears that give you trouble. I had to remove camber arms, support brace, and axles just to take the hubs off

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

edconline · 02-18-2014, 09:31 PM

Why did you have to take all that off, was it just to get the clearance to get to those 4 bolts? I thought that once the 32MM nut was off the front, and the 4 bolts were off the back, the wheel hub would slide right off the axle.. ? Also, if I do attempt it, anything else I should know, like anything I have to mark so it goes back on in the same spot, etc? Thanks!

Rusty · 02-19-2014, 12:52 AM

To remove the front hubs. All you have to do is. Back the 4 bolts out about 1/4". Put a socket and extention on one bolt. Now smack the end of the extention with a hammer a few times. Move on the next bolt. The hub will pop out.

For the rear hubs. Remove the axle nut. Next, remove the 4 bolts in the back of the hub. It's a tight fit in the back of the kuckle. It's best to use a 1/2" drive thin wall socket if you have one. Or use a 3/8" drive socket.

Rusty · 02-19-2014, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline

Ok, so I am just doing this today and already running into some issues. First once I exposed the hubs and took the old studs out I could see that it looks like the teeth on the hubs stripped and I will need to replace the front hubs

As much as that sucks, the real issue right now is that I can't for the life of me remove the wheel hubs from the car! What is the trick to getting these things out of there?

Also, are there any good aftermarket wheel hubs for our car? If I have to replace them, I might as well find something better than OEM.

If I'm reading this right. Those teeth marks in the holes are from the studs when they was installed. Once you have installed the new studs. They should be tight. If you can move a stud from side to side using hand pressure. Then you have a problem.

edconline · 02-19-2014, 01:24 AM

The holes had been slightly enlarged, so the new studs would still have had some play in a couple of the holes.

VDC_OFF · 02-19-2014, 12:30 PM

the only thing I dont like about the arp studs is that they are made for sti's so they dont have the same amount of teeth as our stock studs do. You just have to wedge them in making new teeth marks in the hub holes. They hold fine, its just not a good feeling.

edconline · 02-19-2014, 01:15 PM

True, although with new front hubs the only marks will be from the ARP studs so I'm sure it will be ok. I'll watch for that on the back though.

josedlr1992 · 12-01-2014, 01:59 PM

Dumb question so the socket that comes with the z1 lugs will fit all the way through on the ARP bolts?

Rangerz · 02-08-2015, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

Where are you referencing the axle nut spec? FSM states 74 to 77 Ft Lbs?

FSM RAX page 8 toward the bottom.

Just did this install and torques to 77 ft lbs. Would like to know where 133 is stated.

Thanks

edconline · 02-08-2015, 06:10 PM

RAX-11, 're installation of the wheel hub lock nut'

Please tighten it to spec so it doesn't fall off. 77 is a long way from 133. You need to read all the way through the FSM instructions.

Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk, likely while driving.

Rangerz · 02-08-2015, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline

RAX-11, 're installation of the wheel hub lock nut'

Please tighten it to spec so it doesn't fall off. 77 is a long way from 133. You need to read all the way through the FSM instructions.

Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk, likely while driving.

Really??? of course I read the instructions. It appears we had a spec change at some point between 2010 and My FSM 2012. RAX -8 and 11.

Mr. Econoline and I are looking at the same pages just different years does anyone know if I should be looking elsewhere for a different spec?

Here are the 2 pages

Rangerz · 02-08-2015, 09:50 PM

I didn't want to make a new thread for this because Rusty's is the bomb. I did the rear install this morning and you can get the ARP studs into the rear hub without removing the unit bearing. You will still need to follow Rusty's DIY.

So the addendum is:

Loosen the 4 retaining bolts but, don't take them out. What you are trying to do is just give yourself enough room between the Hub and rear spindle to get the bolt installed. I would guess about 3/8 of an inch or so. This will alleviate having to mark and then index your hub and axle shafts. and cut a little time out of the install.

Shows the gap toward the back of the hub.

Once you get it to this point just rotate the hub and feed the stud in and move on to the next one.

11-26-2013, 03:18 PM	#31 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Thanks for the info. I contacted a local shop about cutting all the studs down. Then I can get the best of both worlds, awesome studs and the length I want. (And I can leave the hubs on) __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-17-2014, 07:21 PM	#32 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Ok, so I am just doing this today and already running into some issues. First once I exposed the hubs and took the old studs out I could see that it looks like the teeth on the hubs stripped and I will need to replace the front hubs As much as that sucks, the real issue right now is that I can't for the life of me remove the wheel hubs from the car! What is the trick to getting these things out of there? Also, are there any good aftermarket wheel hubs for our car? If I have to replace them, I might as well find something better than OEM. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-18-2014, 03:02 PM	#33 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Time to contribute something to this DIY: After fighting with the wheel hubs forever trying to break them loose I decided to try something. Looking at the hub, I saw no reason to have to remove it in order to install the studs, and I remember it being super easy the first time I tried it. Sure enough, you can easily install ARP studs without removing the hubs in the front: That is what that hole is for in the dust shield, you could install studs twice as long if you wanted.. you just pull it through, seat the stud with a nut to suck it through, then rotate and do the next, etc. I thought that's what it was like, but couldn't remember then reading this I second guessed myself. So there you go, a lot of work saved for people doing this in the future. Now sadly this doesn't help me one bit as I need to replace the hubs anyways lol, but hopefully it will help others out! ENT-Z and JARblue like this. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-18-2014, 09:29 PM	#34 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 17	Yup the fronts don't need to be removed, it's the rears that give you trouble. I had to remove camber arms, support brace, and axles just to take the hubs off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

02-18-2014, 09:31 PM	#35 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Why did you have to take all that off, was it just to get the clearance to get to those 4 bolts? I thought that once the 32MM nut was off the front, and the 4 bolts were off the back, the wheel hub would slide right off the axle.. ? Also, if I do attempt it, anything else I should know, like anything I have to mark so it goes back on in the same spot, etc? Thanks! __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-19-2014, 12:52 AM	#36 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,217 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	To remove the front hubs. All you have to do is. Back the 4 bolts out about 1/4". Put a socket and extention on one bolt. Now smack the end of the extention with a hammer a few times. Move on the next bolt. The hub will pop out. For the rear hubs. Remove the axle nut. Next, remove the 4 bolts in the back of the hub. It's a tight fit in the back of the kuckle. It's best to use a 1/2" drive thin wall socket if you have one. Or use a 3/8" drive socket. edconline and Felix 808 like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

02-19-2014, 01:24 AM	#38 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	The holes had been slightly enlarged, so the new studs would still have had some play in a couple of the holes. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-19-2014, 12:30 PM	#39 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 17	the only thing I dont like about the arp studs is that they are made for sti's so they dont have the same amount of teeth as our stock studs do. You just have to wedge them in making new teeth marks in the hub holes. They hold fine, its just not a good feeling. edconline and JARblue like this. __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

02-19-2014, 01:15 PM	#40 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	True, although with new front hubs the only marks will be from the ARP studs so I'm sure it will be ok. I'll watch for that on the back though. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

12-01-2014, 01:59 PM	#41 (permalink)
josedlr1992 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 13 Drives: 09 370z, PW, M6 Rep Power: 12	Dumb question so the socket that comes with the z1 lugs will fit all the way through on the ARP bolts?

02-08-2015, 06:10 PM	#43 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	RAX-11, 're installation of the wheel hub lock nut' Please tighten it to spec so it doesn't fall off. 77 is a long way from 133. You need to read all the way through the FSM instructions. Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk, likely while driving. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

02-08-2015, 09:50 PM	#45 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	I didn't want to make a new thread for this because Rusty's is the bomb. I did the rear install this morning and you can get the ARP studs into the rear hub without removing the unit bearing. You will still need to follow Rusty's DIY. So the addendum is: Loosen the 4 retaining bolts but, don't take them out. What you are trying to do is just give yourself enough room between the Hub and rear spindle to get the bolt installed. I would guess about 3/8 of an inch or so. This will alleviate having to mark and then index your hub and axle shafts. and cut a little time out of the install. Shows the gap toward the back of the hub. Once you get it to this point just rotate the hub and feed the stud in and move on to the next one. ENT-Z, BeemaaZ and Rusty like this. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

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