Thank you! :tiphat: I try. :D

Found this in the 2009 FSM. Looks like the 2009 had both options, the 2010 had no adjusting cap and spring washer and 2011+ had the adjusting cap and spring washer. Explains the different specs.

http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...4807-fsm-2.png

Just did this install front and rear last week with my AP Racing BBK install. Thank you to Rusty and everyone that contributed. The rears were not anywhere as bad as I was fearing.

I'm interested in these. Is the Subaru/WRX kit still the way to go?

That's what I ordered... they're coming in this Tuesday. I'll let you know soon! supposedly they're the same length as the Z1 replacement studs (50mm) in the same 12x1.25 size.

So bringing this thread back. I already have spacers and the z1 standard studs but just had one nut completely seize to a stud on the day before my track event. Luckily z car garage was able to save me and break the stud off. Truly odd, I have never had a lug nut just seize like that and spun the whole stud in the hub. Going to replace the hub as I don't trust the stud hole long term but also going to replace all the studs. Debating if I go the ARP route or the z1 higher quality cad plated ball nose studs. I originally wanted to go with the z1 ball nose but they are too long to work with the oem wheel lock (the oem lock is shallower). So I have a set of gorilla locks coming which look to be more like the oem depth and should clear the z1 ball nose stud. Or I get the ARP and have to cut the ends off of all the nuts to make the "open" style on the lathe since no one sells an "open" style to fit the oem rays. So more work to go the ARP route (removing rear hub and cutting lug nuts) but once done it's done but curious if anyone has used the z1 ball nose and what the results were long term, tracking, no seized nuts, broken studs etc.

Do you use anti-seize on the lug threads? That keeps the threads from galling up.

Also use a Torque-Wrench,,,impact gun's are tough on the fine threaded 12mm studs.

I made the switch to the ARP studs (the smaller ones, not the 20mm extended) and I love it. I can use a 10mm slip on spacer on the rear and I don't have to use open ended lugs for my daily driver rims either (for which I take the 10mm spacer off). They're just the right length.

I used anti seize now but never have in the past and never had an issue, always more worried of a lug nut loosening rather than one seizing. Maybe it happens on the east cost/mid west but never had it happen in my 12 years at dealers on the west coast, just really weird. The oem studs look to have a coating of some kind (dull grey) and I've seen that on MB stuff when I worked for them and it is a protective coating, the z1 studs are just a shiny silver so probably nothing there.

As far as torque I always use an extremely weak impact setting and final torque by hand (have never had a customer lose a wheel doing it this way) and I can't imagine the minor amount of impact force I use to have damaged it or you would be seeing just about every z with stuck lug nuts after it's gotten tires from the monkeys at the tire shops with their IR titanium guns at full power.

Pharma I saw that post earlier and I actually only use 10mm spacers so that may work but I didn't know if ARP 49.?? Length was thread length or total length including the ball nose. If it's the later that may have me worried for thread contact at the track.

I think I'm leaning to the z1 20mm ball nose since they are heat treated and plated as well, and if the gorilla locks fit then that's a big plus as well, also can run 10 or 15mm spacers which I'm starting to get tempted to try 15, just don't want any odd scrub radius issues under braking.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I BELIEVE thread length... I did double check with multiple people before throwing them on though. I've done about 6 or 7 autocross events and no issues so far. Seems like it catches more than enough thread contact.

I’m trying to figure out if this method of cutting off the caps on the OEM lug nuts would work for use on the OEM wheels. I’m interested in installing extended these ARP studs as a safety requirement for the track in order to use Drag Radials. There’s no question as to whether open ended aftermarket lugs will fit on my aftermarket wheels for the track. The issue I have is trying to find an open ended mag style lug with washer to use on my OEM wheels for off track/daily driving use.

If anyone has any suggestions/experience on an open ended mag style nut with washer or whether cutting the caps off the OEM lugs actually works pls chime in. Again this is just so I can put my OEM Nismo Wheels back on using these studs after the track for my daily driving.
__________________

I cut the tops off of 5 oem lug nuts and keep them in the Z for use with the spare tire.

You Are the man...this answers it for me....Thnx so much Rusty....this will be the route I will take since there is no other alternative I’ve found ....if they only made open ended studs with the shank it would be so much more easier. Difficulty level for this? What tools did u use to cut the caps off? And did u use the OEM studs or these one peice style one from Z1 Motorsports?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/wheels...ts-p-7418.html

To cut the tops off the oem nuts. I used a 4" cut-off wheel on a die grinder.. Then used a file to finish off the top of the nut.

I used the Z1 splined open end lug nuts with my Forgeline rims.