Nissan 370Z Forum - Installing ARP wheel studs

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- - Installing ARP wheel studs (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/69334-installing-arp-wheel-studs.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF (Post 2251346)

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

I took the pictures before I put the bungee cord on. ;) I forgot to include the torque specs. Thanks! :tiphat: That break bar is a SnapOn flex head ratchet. :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by scruffydog (Post 2251397)

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

I had you in mind when I was posting this. ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 2250863)

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm. :tup:

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

I'm at this point right now and I can't seem to get the 3/8" socket to fit in the 4 bolts around the CV Joint....this is a paint. I managed to get 1 out of the 4 bolts. I think i'm gonna take a break for awhile. I also need to get a 6 pt 3/8 17mm socket (socket set). Keep you up to date. This sucks...I took off a lot of linkages and wondering if I should need to take off the whole CV Shaft from the hub.

My front's taken off but I need a vice to hammer it in or buy myself an impact driver to fasten a spacer (which i have) to pull the stud in from the front side.

need to get myself a set of 6pt socket too

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet. ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 2265876)

Thanks for the help! I only have craftsman stuff and the wall thickness is not working out for me. I just picked up a 6pt 17mm 3/8 socket set (both reg & deep), i'm gonna give that a try and let you know how it goes.

So you didn't need to take out the axle? I'm seriously considering that right now. :confused:

Never took out the axle. Just removed the big nut, the 4 bolts, and slid the unit bearing off the knuckle.

Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off.

Scratching head as to what to do.

YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning. ;)

yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help!

Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help.

Hey, no problem. :D The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with.

Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off :shakes head:

I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length.

depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers.

Nope no spacers. The offset is +15 rear and +25 front, so I didn't need spacers anymore with the advans. Damn. Might go back to stock then, or get the nismo ones.
I guess cutting some length off the arp studs would work too.

yeah, i had to cut off the tip on one since I messed up a thread by accident. Used a dremel and some patience. Dont forget goggles.