Well, I say it weighs 2 pounds and that it matters because some of us actually care about that sort of thing, that's all.

nice looking box, but painter's tape? :icon17: ;)

Just holding it together until I had time to finish packaging the internals. Didn't want to run the screws in and out too many times. Plastic and all.

^^ oh i c. :tup:

So I'm new to this car, what exactly is the steering lock thing alot of guys here talk about?

They quit putting them in 370Zs in 2011. Your 2013 doesn't have one.

See thread "steering lock entry and immobilizer delete"

It includes as did my other thread a year ago (which some-one zapped by posting rubbish) ...includes dumping the lock and fixing the circuit board
and how to place it.

The thread(s) were and are still AOK and valid.

Good luck,

Fritz.

That's nice to know. Thanks

Humm. I will have to check my 2011 then.

It's easy to check... If you hear this LOUD thing that engages when you turn your car off, you have it

Well then, it has it then.

Awesome... FYL, honestly, if I were you (and it's what I'm doing) is wait until the last day of my warranty to remove it... I don't mind the hassle of having it towed for free and getting a free rental car, LOL

The thread mentioned does cover the basics on how to do it without modifying the electronics at all.

What I did is a bit more permanent, stable and admittedly most likely overly complex.

1. Remove switches and servo connection hardware completely
2. Attach external switch to sensor channel A's "on" circuit
3. Hotwire sensor channel B's circuit closed permanently (which, incidentally, is is 'off' rather than 'on' in a 'turning the power on or off' context)
4. Package the PCB into a plastic enclosure

:tup:

Note: "Sensor Channel A/B" is just what I am calling them. There are two circuits whose statuses have to toggle in order for the PCB to send the required waveform/pulse to the BCM to enable the ignition.

Good job!

I'll just say, anyone with a failed or functional SLU that wants to convert it to a simple plug in with a kill switch like I have here, I will do the conversion for them for the cost of parts + shipping and $20 for my time.

Takes me about an hour or so to do the whole thing now that I've gone through the iteration of trying different methods already.

Shoot me a PM if anyone is interested.

Edit: and if you want it with no kill switch, I'll do that too. Doesn't matter to me. ;)