Bump for question above...

To the best of my knowledge you have to remove the door panel to remove the door handle as the design of the clips the handle has to be pulled away from the door from the rear after you remove 4 screws. I was able to avoid unplugging the window controls by using a small flat head screwdriver to unclip the four snaps on each side of the window controls and remove it from the visible shroud. This makes it small enough to slip through the door card with out unplugging the control. I also removed the door handle from the card but removing the 4 philips head screws that hold the handle to the card and then reinstalled the one 10mm screw the reconnects the handle to the door frame itself. I not have a fully functional door (handle, lock and window switches even though there is no interior door card.

Was just setting up my car to bring for tints in the morning. I removed the door cards to give them more room to work with and found a trick to help with the install. On the lower door jam is a rubber compression sensor that tells the car if the door is open or closed. If you back out the philips head screw about a half a turn it must break the ground and disable the switch because the window juts up as if the door is closed. This will allow the tint installer to get deeper below the glass seal on the door to make sure it doesn't peel up. DO NOT forget to tighten the screw so the window drops BEFORE you close the door or the glass will smash into the window arch.

Hope this helps.

Its time to open the tread back up haha. I've been reading around and I can seem to figure out if a standard 6.5" speaker will fit directly into the base model door?

Thanks for posting this! Excellent write up!

So I dropped a part of my door handle into the door shell...

Question: If I remove the door panel, will I have decent space to fish out the piece?

Yeah you will be able to get the piece out. It's easier with a magnet though.

I tried using a magnet via the door handle hole but the damn thing seems like it is lodged into the crevice. I took off the door panel but don't know how to go about getting to the access in the door shell.

Nope I can answer this to the exact of it's design - just finished FOCAL 6.5" ISC 165 install this last weekend. These speakers along with about 3 other companies state their components are 6.5" however they are actually 6.75" which makes a slight difference. Also on that same note speaker sits in a 'Holder' per se, and that speaker is a 5 1/4" by OEM Default in the Base models. IF you unscrew this 'Holder' Which i will post pics if people wish to see what i'm talking about, you will be left with the holder Adapter which has 4 screws into the door panel. I custom built a MDF spacer for my 6.75's to mount to the default holes. Pretty simple. 6.5" may fit just correct in the SPACER OEM , NOT HOLDER, (that is a 5 1/4"), and 6.75 will fit with a Adapter. Any Questions, let me know. PS if you are changing these out, use a VOLTMETER to find Pos and Neg in the wires. There are two different answers to the OEM colors, and I just decided to use a meter to find it out.

Thanks

OSI

On a related note, the factory speakers use Neodymium, which is far more powerful per ounce than Alnico/Ferrite (which is what most aftermarkets are made of for cost reasons) so the factory speakers can be far smaller in the magnet and fit in the door easily. The aftermarkets are after every dime that they can grab, you won't see them with Neodymium anything, haha. They are available, just not that many, so if you're looking to fit in place of Bose factory, they are your best bet...Good luck finding anything but crap Alnico/Ferrite 6 x 9's!

I wondered how the tweeters could have bigger magnets than the 6.5" door speakers. Glad I replaced the stock non-bose speakers they were very muddy sounding had decent enough base though. I gutted up the stock speakers and used those instead of the schoci adapters as the sochis created a noticeable air gap between the speaker and the door panel.

2012 370z roadster
 

seems that I am having issues trying to get door panel off I following all the steps but I noticed there extra screws that have to come out for example where door handle is all every one says there only one but there is two

there are three down below bottom of the door that have to come out, now i go in and i able to pull all 12 of the clips out but still the door panel wont come out like its lose and can be pushed around but it wont come completely off.

the panel area that is connected to the door that wont come off is where the SRS air bag is. ?

any idea how this part of the door panel is suppose to be removed from the door ?

there are no plastic clips that i can tell in that area i ran a flat screw drive along the side of the whole SRS door panel area and it can slide with ease but the door panel it self just wont come off of it - no matter how hard i pull on it if i pulled any harder half panel would snap in half so it cant be pulled off.

2012 370z Steps to removing door panel
 

there is a step you have to do before you do anything else.

there is an air bag in the 2012 and up models in the door panels in both driver and passenger side


before removal of door panel

a: Turn off ignition switch and make sure you disconnect battery negatice terminal and wait 3 minutes or more.

B: do not use any type of air tools.

Use a screw driver with a cloth around it or a plastic made tool for prying

c: Full open door window the door window most be down.

E: Then remove the door finisher Cap the one that says SRS under this is a Door mounted Curtain Air Bag module Mounting bolt which you can then remove

E: go back to start of this form and follow his instructions

I also have attached files showing all of the removal information here

huh, you guys have airbags in the doors on 12'?

on my 09, i just remove the panel off. did not unplug the battery.

The 2011+ Roadsters have side airbags in the doors as well.

My 2014 dont have the srs label or stitching on the doors.