Now get to work on the Z. And quit slacking!
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10-01-2017, 09:06 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Now get to work on the Z. And quit slacking!
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10-01-2017, 09:08 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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I'm done for the night. I had to walk away from it. I'll do a little more tomorrow night after work.
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10-02-2017, 08:09 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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Anyone have the torque sequence for the pan bolts?
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10-02-2017, 08:51 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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I just finger tight first. Then used a 3/8" ratchet and started tighten them up. Did it in 3 steps.
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10-02-2017, 09:04 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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I thought there was a recommended sequence for torquing them down. The OP stated it in his original DIY post.
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10-02-2017, 09:12 AM | #36 (permalink) |
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Use a cross-pattern like wheels (see attached from FSM), starting in the middle of the pan and work your way around. I would tighten like @Rusty says above.
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10-02-2017, 09:13 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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Thanks!
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10-03-2017, 12:05 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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I noticed from looking at the stock pan the bead of Ultra Grey (or whatever the factory uses) spilled over in to the pan when it was compressed to the upper pan when it was all originally assembled. So I guess I don't have to worry about doing the same when I reassemble everything. I was originally worried about some bleeding over inside when I compressed the two together. I'm surprised this isn't a concern.
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~Rob -DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on... |
10-03-2017, 12:14 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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10-03-2017, 12:18 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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I plan to assemble it and leave it over night. I was just concerned that when heated, it increased the potential for a piece to break loose and then cause issues while its floating around in the oil.
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10-03-2017, 12:32 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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You should see some of the stuff I've seen on multi-million dollar equipment. And this stuff gets inspected very carefully.
You should be ok if you don't go over board and use the whole tube. Just need about 1/16" thick bead towards the outside edge, and around the bolt holes. Just make sure everything is clean. No oil dripping from the inside of the motor, running onto the mating surface. And you will be good.
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10-03-2017, 01:31 PM | #42 (permalink) | ||
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The danger here being that any squeeze-out of RTV here will already be past the strainer and can thus be sucked in to become an obstruction in the oil passage.
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10-03-2017, 06:24 PM | #43 (permalink) | |
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04-21-2018, 03:59 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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And here is my new video to complement your installation instructions
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=5735ycX1JhE |
04-23-2018, 08:22 AM | #45 (permalink) | |
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~Rob -DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on... |
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