Originally Posted by sx moneypit No.The nut will stop the same way it does when you are installing a wheel. I think it's worth clarifying the answer to this because
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12-09-2016, 11:30 AM | #106 (permalink) | |
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Neither of those comes into play when I put an impact gun on a nut to pull the stud through. With a gun, the nut will continue to turn, but at some point the stud will have stopped moving. No one has talked about being careful here or possibly stripping the stud by having the gun continue past the point where the stud is no longer being pulled. Seems to me that it would take very little to strip the stud if you are not careful. Some articles elsewhere on the web even mention not using more torque to pull the stud, than you would if you were installing a wheel. |
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12-10-2016, 05:42 PM | #107 (permalink) | |
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12-10-2016, 07:48 PM | #109 (permalink) |
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I had a 2003 350z track, and experienced wheel bearing issues. It's possible that banging these studs out could stress them in unnatural ways. I used this which was a perfect fit and extremely easy to get stud out with no added stress.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4AJ74Q..._0cktybCYS83NF End result with Z1 hardware! |
03-15-2018, 06:49 PM | #110 (permalink) |
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Which Spacer
I'm looking to add 20mm spacers front and rear. I prefer DRS rtaher than bolt-on, front and rear (I feel safer). The reviews seem to favor H&R (several complaints about vibration with Ichiba). H&R has a 20mm DRM bolt-on, #4065661, and a DRS new-lugs, #4065662. I called H&R and they say they only tested the DRM on the Z so that's what they recommend. Interestingly, the specs appear different, the Z center bore is 66.1mm, the DRM is also 66.1, the DRS is 66.2.
Is this why the DRS is not recommended? Is the extra 0.1mm enough to cause vibration? Anyone using the 4065662 DRS successfully, or should I look at another brand? Thanks, -Greg |
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