Yes, (although very slight) it will add stress to the entire rear unit.
Anytime you extend a weight or rotating mass further from its anchor point your increasing stress (and the risk of increased wheel vibration).
It's like this... take a 25lb weight and hang or spin it around your elbow with arm extended... then move it out to your wrist area... you'll immediately note the difference in your shoulder!

Hey guys! So I just read this thread and want to make sure I'm right before I make any purchases.

For the front, I'm planning on going with the Ichiba V1 15mm and for the rear I am going to go with 20mm V2s. Sound like a good setup?

20/25 and go with H&R.....imho

H&R DRS (replacement stud) model.

So the DRS with 20 in front and 25 in rear?

Yes, DSR's for the 20mm front and for the rear 25mm which would be bolt on's. I do not believe H&R makes a DSR for 25mm.

Mine are 20mm Fr DSR
25mm Rr bolt-on

Any pictures?

Any pictures of a 20mm/25mm setup? Before I pull the trigger on a size.

Sorry guys missed the post from Oct. I will see about posting a pic up.

Have a look through my album as I have a few pics showing 20mm front & 25mm rear spacers:

Nissan 370Z Forum - pfdaxe's Album: Mods

Thanks ^ because I have very few pics uploaded to database for web hosting.

Well having read this sticky & recently installed my spacers, I would like add my :twocents:

While this write up is good, I think that it's really a short cut & short cuts can become interesting at times. With that said I would recommend pulling the hub as it's only 4 bolts away, especially if you are running 20mm longer studs up front. You will also not need an impact wrench because you can tap the new studs out & into pace on a vise instead of trying to fish the studs through the heat shield. You can also visually see the seat of the stud for reassurance of a job well done. I have an impact wrench & prefer to do it as listed above.

If you find your rotor is frozen & won't come off there is a simple solution to this as well. Get yourself (2) Grade 8 1/2"x3" bolts, (4) matching nuts. (4) washers. Fit bolts through caliper bolt holes then place a washer or 2 on the back side then double nut it. Tighten bolt while backing up the nut. Outside nut pushes rotor, inside nut will cause bolt w/nut to push on rotor. You will hear it pop. Rotate rotor 180 & repeat. Rotor will come off easily.

Just another way to accomplish the task folks & it only takes a few more minutes ;) YMMV

Well said, I had the frozen bolts and it was a PITA to get off. :tiphat:

What is the stock stud length? I have 8mm spacers for the front, so I only want my studs 10mm longer or so because I want to use closed end lugs.

Just measured an extra loose one I had: 39mm to be exact.

You at correct, but they brand them at 40mm. The stock lugs have about 10mm of headroom.

So, if i want to put my 8mm spacer on, i should technically get some that are 47mm, but would 50mm be ok? I've seen some Ichiba studs that are 50mm.

Yes. Get 50mm. You'll be fine ;)

When you measured the stud, did you measure the entire thing, or just the threads?

I just installed 20mm on the rear, and when I go to remove the front wheel there is an extra small nut on the hub that doesn't match up with any of the holes on the spacer, I assume I we can remove this? Someone please confirm this. I've installed spacers on other cars before but never seen this. Thanks!

Yes. You don't need it. It was discussed on page 3:

http://www.the370z.com/546414-post36.html

I must have skipped over that post. Thanks for the confirmation :tiphat:

Will be buying an impact gun and have no experience with one. When pulling the new stud into place, do I need to worry about stripping the stud? At some point the stud will be in, and the gun will keep spinning the nut. Or no?

No.The nut will stop the same way it does when you are installing a wheel.

I think it's worth clarifying the answer to this because I'm not sure I follow that. The reason the nut stops turning when I'm installing the wheel is because *I* stop turning the nut. And the reason *I* stop turning it, is because I'm using a torque wrench, and it told me to stop turning it.

Neither of those comes into play when I put an impact gun on a nut to pull the stud through. With a gun, the nut will continue to turn, but at some point the stud will have stopped moving. No one has talked about being careful here or possibly stripping the stud by having the gun continue past the point where the stud is no longer being pulled. Seems to me that it would take very little to strip the stud if you are not careful. Some articles elsewhere on the web even mention not using more torque to pull the stud, than you would if you were installing a wheel.

im pretty sure if u need such warning, u shouldnt be working on any car.

The warning wasn't for me. So it looks like you agree with me and disagree with the other response,yet think I'm the one who shouldn't work on cars. Hehe. Thanks for being on my side! Lol

I had a 2003 350z track, and experienced wheel bearing issues. It's possible that banging these studs out could stress them in unnatural ways. I used this which was a perfect fit and extremely easy to get stud out with no added stress.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4AJ74Q..._0cktybCYS83NF

End result with Z1 hardware!

Which Spacer
 

I'm looking to add 20mm spacers front and rear. I prefer DRS rtaher than bolt-on, front and rear (I feel safer). The reviews seem to favor H&R (several complaints about vibration with Ichiba). H&R has a 20mm DRM bolt-on, #4065661, and a DRS new-lugs, #4065662. I called H&R and they say they only tested the DRM on the Z so that's what they recommend. Interestingly, the specs appear different, the Z center bore is 66.1mm, the DRM is also 66.1, the DRS is 66.2.

Is this why the DRS is not recommended? Is the extra 0.1mm enough to cause vibration?
Anyone using the 4065662 DRS successfully, or should I look at another brand?

Thanks,
-Greg